EssexBoi

Not certain we had that error code as I stated in my first post, the battery was completely drained and we had numerous error codes afterwards until a reset. However, our independent suggested that we replace the entire cooling fan unit as the control module for the fan is, unfortunately, integrated into it. To be fair, the fan has come on since although significantly less often and not since we took returned from a road trip to France.

It MAY be a faulty door lock. Our problem is with the left rear door. When unlocking, that door and the driver's door would unlock but not the front passenger door or right rear door. However, if I approach the front passenger door with key fob in hand, it unlocks when grasping the handle. Turns out that the left rear door which "unlocks" when pushing the keyfob was never actually locking and breaking the circuit to unlock the other two doors. So, that lock is faulty and will need to be replaced. It is possible, you may have a similar issue so get them to plug it into the diagnostic tablet. We have been quoted something like £400 to repair roughly 50/50 on labour and parts (door lock).

Well done. Glad you got there in the end. Theoretically quite easy. Removing the wiring loom and the those infernal clips was the main issue only in that I didn't want to break anything (and I also broke two clips!) but that was it. If anyone has the same problem, try it out.

Yep. I wondered about that too. They look like one part but they do separate. When you prise it out from the bottom following the instructions it all works out as the window switches just drop out of the frame when you release the clips (in theory but getting the clips to release was a two man job).

Hello and welcome. I hope you have an easy job repairing this. As quoted above by @CBas , this is the Part No. 5G0959857 This here I searched and found it Amazon.co.uk but I am certian you can try on the Aus site. There seem to be C/D/G and B versions. I got the C. Other vehicles it claims to fit different models across the VW group range such as the GTi Mk7. You will also need to get yourself a cheap trim kit to prise the switch out of the door trim. I found it to be a lot longer than 5 minutes and was a two person job. Getting it out following the excellent instructions from @Steviedakota was the easy part. I struggled getting the catch to release. For clarity, that red bit is a clip and can slide up. Get someone to cup there hands underneath or it will eventually pop off and fall into the door and down an open hole 🙄 Then the wiring loom can eventually be prised out of the socket (also took me a while) with a screwdriver or a trim tool. You will then need the second person to help you to press in those plastic clips to allow the entire switch unit to come out of the frame. After that it was easy. Clip switch into the frame, insert the wiring loom into the recently vacated socket and gently put the entire unit back into the door handle. Good luck

Well, it is possible you may be able to source a second hand one although the labour will be the same. Frankly, seeing as it is apparently a common fault across the VW brands (AUDI, Skoda, VW and possibly SEAT) you should probably buy it new and hopefully get 6+ years out of it

We had a similar progression. A few weeks fine and then progressivelygot worse again. It is going in next week for the cooling fan and control module to be replaced along with sorting out the virtual pedal no longer working after Marshall Skoda "fixed" it.

Hello gents, Reactivating this query. Following your excellent instructions @Steviedakota , I have managed to lift out the assembly containing the electric window and mirror switches. The problem I now have is trying to firstly disconnect the "loom" from the electric windows part. I don't want to yank too hard and was trying to pry in the area marked with the blue arrows or jiggle the red part marked as was uncertain if it was a kind of latch. But no success. How would I go about disconnecting it? Secondly, the entire circuit board in the switch box popped out of the "box" containing the windows switches and I am battling to remove the now empty box as the three or four clips holding it into the assembly are all bloody tight and I don't want to destroy them or they won't hold the new switch assembly in place. What am I doing wrong as 5 minutes is already 15+ The endpost is near but I need to first: 1. Remove wiring loom from old circuit board to plug in the replacement switchs; and 2. Unclip the "latches holding the now empty faulty plastic box in place so the new one slides in and clips into place. Thanking you in advance whoever answers. EB

MIne certainly wasn't...it just popped out with a little jiggle and wiggle. Just to highlight, we have the L&K model which looks a little different to the picture posted above mine. We seem to have an additional 645 relay. Also to note, the independent garage said he hasn't heard of the relay thing (when I described the bottom one heating up even with swopping the fuses). He said the control module is a common fault and unfortunately, the entire unit has to be swopped out as it is integrated with the cooling fan unit.

In my case, the bottom one. I drew a red box around it. However, it still seems to come on randomly although not for as long. It is going back to Skoda for them to repair as another garage said it is likely the control module meaning that the entire fan unit has to be replaced as it is integrated. My quote from an independent : Radiator fan (incl control module) £342.50 (£411 incl) Labour £142.50 (£171 incl) - 1.5hrs @£95 p/h £582 total However, when it goes back to Skoda, I will fight like Mike Tyson as the car was under warranty when it went into them for repair and owing to their misdiagnosis is no longer covered. They will foot the bill or I will see them in small claims. As an aside, the boot's "Virtual pedal" they were supposed to repair no longer works so they will have to repair that as well and refit the lower valance as they left off the screws holding it in place. The mind boggles.

Just to follow up on this thread as it may be useful for someone in the future. Despite telling Marshall Skoda Harlow what the problem was, writing down the list and leaving it in the car and suggesting they get in an auto electrician, they decided to ignore everything. They ultimately just replaced the 645 relay despite my warnings that the actual slot was causing the relay placed there to heat up when we swapped them around. "All fixed". But it wasn't as the cooling fan started again within about three weeks. Then they replaced the memory seat controller and module. "All fixed". But it wasn't. The seats refused to accept new memory positions and wing mirrors did not adjust. This was over an extended period between October and November, Took it back and the brought in Skoda Technical Team who advised that the boot module for the Virtual pedal was faulty and causing all the other systems to play up as they are all connected via some bridge. Personally, I have always thought "the ankle bone is connected to the shin bone" and not the shoulder bone but what do I know!!! They took it back in Mid December to replace the boot module. As of today, It remains there for 5 weeks although they have just said it is now fixed and ready for collection. This entire thing has taken them from first week of September until now so approaching 5 months. The car is now out of warranty and we have only used it for three weeks and about 1000 miles (a fair lot of which was driving up and down to them 8 times and runs to recharge the battery three times). Hopefully, this may be of use to someone in the future. EB

Just to bump and update this. Trying to speak to a Skoda technician but in their report, apart from faulty memory seat switch or controller and faulty start stop switch, they highlighted that we have a heated windscreen switch but the windscreen is not a heated one. Rooting around here, I noticed that there is a thread about retrofitting a heated windscreen and they specifically mention them notorious 645 relay. So, I am surmising that this was recently replaced with the non heated windscreen and a circuit is not closing or the ECU is constantly pinging it and causing excessive battery drain. How the cooling fan comes into play I have yet to ascertain but it may all be on the same circuit. Anyone with some knowledge care to weigh in? Regards EB

Bumping this thread. Hi everyone. New member of the Skoda family (approximately 3 weeks). We bought the car (Mk III Superb L&K 2.0 Tdi 190bhp) which was delivered on a Wednesday. Went to use it on Sunday (other cars in the household) and the battery was completely flat. Had the battery replaced and 10 days later it was completely drained. We heard the cooling fan running constantly and unlocked the car, it stopped. Started and ran the car for a couple of minutes and went back inside. 02h00 in the morning, the cooling fan came on and the alarm went off. Battery was so flat we had to use manual key (very fun for the first time in a heavy drizzle at 02h00!) Anyway, the new battery was completely mothered. Found this forum and traced the problem straight to the 645 relay which was running hot compared to the other two. Thank you for that. HOWEVER, the big difference is our usual mechanic was picking up a lot of errors on the OBD so was trying to work out the cause for the fan coming on. To cut a long story short, we swopped the 645 relays around and all the relays worked but whenever one was put in the position of the heated relay, it too would heat up implying that whatever it is connected to (that switches on the cooling fan) is the fault as opposed to the relay switch itself. So, any ideas what it is? The car is still within 30 day warranty and is booked into Skoda for diagnosis but they could only manage 19 September. I am hoping they have an auto electrician on the team as OBD shows a number of issues (possibly caused by the flat battery) one of which is the driver memory seat and we have problem with the start button which sometimes works first time other times needs to be pressed 2/3 times or held and then pressed to both switch on or off. Is that normal? Apologies for the length and possibly arbitrary details. The short question is does anyone know what systems are on that third 645 relay switch Many thanks EB