Ebbie

I have only ever seen fabias with a single reverse light, including my 2013 fabia. If yours do infact have two Reverse lights (if theres a white part on both lights housing. Instead of being red on one side). I immagine that light wiring would follow the lighting to the rest of the lights. Right side lights along right side of floor. Under side the panels below the doors, winding under the front seats and from there finding their way up the APillar and to the what id immagine being the BCU., And same on other side. Ofc.

My car has a BRAND NEW battery, it was replaced less than a month ago, so it shouldnt be possible for voltage to drop low enough to pop signal fuses (the 5A ones) when cranking the engine. Well just that happened, because auto stop Start did its thing while i had the high beams on. One of the signal fuses popped, and i did not have any front or rear lights any more. Not ideal when you have a 90 min drive home the, sun set an hour earlier, next sunrise isnt for another 17 hours and all stores that might sell fuses are closed for new years. In a slight panic, i looked through the car for fuses. Not wanting to call roadside assistance, and pay the 750NOK fee for a simple popped fuse. LUCKILY i found some. But all this makes me want to disable the auto start stop, so can i? Id love to know how.

So, slowly over the past year ive slowly done upgrades to car audio. So far sound deadened and insulated all 4 doors, spare wheel well, rear wheel arches snd trunk floor. Also sound deadened without insulating under the carpet. New headunit. New door speakers (still oem trebble) amp and a brand new android headunit. Most recent addition is a 250wrms 1000w max SQL subwoofer. Still work i need to with it and the amp. But cranking the volume up is now truly terrifying. And apparently it repairs the car. The lights in the drivers door buttons have not worked since march. Now suddenly i saw them flicker with the bass. Then they stopped flickering and was glowing normally. Ive tried looking at faults in the wiring harness in the oast but never found anything. . So i repaired my car with bass. I reccomend this method, its fun xD

FIXED, Turned out to be a blown 5A fuse. Did not make note of which one. But changed it and things sorted. Assuming its a fuse on a signal line. So now ive learnt to check the fuses before panicking about other possible causes xD

Ooh, also bought an "LED interior light bulb kit for Škoda Fabia..mk2.." . so together im hoping it turns out great. But again, Temu, so expectations are limited. Hoping im pleasantly surprised.

On the great chineseum app called Temu i bought this thing https://share.temu.com/YsUNSWjTdKB, Its a 4m strip, instead of doing a full circle around the entire trunk ill do just the top most part (not even top half, but all the eay to the top) and wire this to the trunk light. And ill use the spares to do the same to the rear doors. Ofc then wired to the center roof light instead. Then if theres spares ill do the front footwells aswell. Cutting them in so many pieces means they wont have the waterproofing grommets on the end, but cam fill it in with silicone and make it look as if its supposed to be that way. And best of all. If i decide it doesnt look good enough it was barely any money spent.

I was dumb and let the battery voltage drop too low. but not too low to start the car. So when i let go of the clutch a bit too quickly and it did the restart the battery warning light came on. And no headlights. It started, the battery light went off, but headlights would not turn on. And later noticed no rear lights either. High beams would not work when this started, but worked later. So only lights i have at the monents are brakelights when pressing the brake, DRLs and blinkers. I put in a spare rotary light switch i had laying around, but this was not the issue. I checked with VCDS, and this showed up. https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00907#00907_-_Intervention_Load_Management So i did what it said. No generator issue (checked it with a battery tester), battery voltage while running seemed fine (maybe a bit lower than normal, but 14.5-146v instead of 14.7 is not a big difference (i was stressed and didnt check not running). I Let the car sit parked and locked for an hour, maybe two and started it again. No new fault codes but still no lights this is when the high beams worked again. Now ive disconnected the battery and plugged in a charger. If this doesnt work what may the issue be? A broken relay? Faulty BCU? Any input appreciated.

So i want to add lights for the backseat passengers. And ofc for when i normally would need to find a flashlight to find things in the rear footwell. https://share.google/images/xTiWKX4dB35jvLLYj Was thinking something like these, Will they work? I tried replacing two of the front interior lights with cheap AliExpress (supposedly canbus error free, that quickly proved to be wrong when i tried using them for exterior lights) but they flickered. An annoyance so undid that change. Because og this im worried these ones may not work like i want. So any tips? Or experiences youve had? If they will work im wanting to put 1 on each side. Right by the the handle above the doors. And run the wire to the front lights. Giving them power when the front lights are on. Also wanting to do this to the front footwells. Any suggestions that may be helpful? Better ideas on where to get power from? With time i want to upgrade all lights to LED, dont want to blind onconming traffic, like many newer cars do today. So thinking a color temperature for front ligts of 5000k would be good. If you have any pointers on how i can do this it Would be greatly appreciated, same goes if you think i should aim for more 'warm' headlights than 5000K. Any tips welcome <3

Short answer, it could work and is ceirtainly worth trying considering the low cost. I thought of doing this when my drivers side wiper stopped wiping. The bearing for that wiper had detatched just like on yours. But in the end i ended up buying new parts. OEM parts has the mechanism and motor welded together (on my fabia atleast). So would have been a 600ish EUR part. Instead i got new not oem parts where theyre seperate, motor was 160EUR (old wasnt broken, but was welded to the mechanism) and the mechanism was 40EUR. Fiddly to replace, but my wipers work again now. Even if the clips doesnt work for you and parts have to be replaced they are great for avoiding that issue happening again on the new parts. Parts i got was these you should be able to find similar in the UK. www.thansen.noVindusviskermotor - Vindusviskermotor - thansen.noKjøp Vindusviskermotor : Vindusviskermotor hos thansen.no www.thansen.noVindusvisker overføring - Vindusvisker overføring - thans...Kjøp Vindusvisker overføring : Vindusvisker overføring hos thansen.no These guys also sells a part with both the mechanism and motor, but it is far more expensive, no idea why. Cheaper than new part from VAG dealership though. www.thansen.noVindusvisker overføring - Vindusvisker overføring - thans...Kjøp Vindusvisker overføring : Vindusvisker overføring hos thansen.no

I was rear ended in my hatchback, i replaced the bumper and bumper brace (you likely wont need to replace that part) from a parts car myself. For my 2013 fabia any rear bumper from any hatchback fabia mk2 will fit. Here differences all lay in the looks, wether it has parking sensors or not. Color, And weather it has a different trim level (like monte carlo ones have the black trim around its edges and eill not look good if your fabia does not.) If youve never replaced a bumper before it can be fiddly, the tools youll need is simple tho, torx bits and pry tools (i used the same ones i used for my interior in other projects. So, i would just cover it in ducttape and be on the lookout. Fabia mk2 is a fairly common car, so just register the part you want with a few different used parts dealers and wait till someone gets the correct bumper. I dont know these similar websites in other countries. But here these companies use websites like bruktdel.no to list parts cars, and already disassembled parts. There may be something similar where you are. Best of luck with this ^^

Taboo subject maybe. But if you have an old laptop you dont care about and you can disable all network cards on it there are wayy cheaper options. (i dont trust them enough, they even say not to be connected to the internet while using xD) you could do like me. Buy a cheap VCDS pretending to be ross-tech from Aliexpress. Not gonna give the link here, as they are violating SO MANY copyrights, trademarks and creative licenses selling these, but they do work well, really well actually ^^ I payed 178NOK for mine, or about 14GBP

Spend so far: Speakers: 4x Pioneer TS-D65C second hand, 1 needed minor repairs. 900NOK Amplifier: Alpine PDX-V9 (1x500w +4x100w rms, second hand 3600NOK Subwoofer (temporary til something better is sourced, if i find it to be neccesairy): Magnat active reflex 300A (80w rms). 450NOK Sound deadening and isulation: ground zero GZDM 3750AB-Gold 1690NOK 2x Emphazer ESP-DM1 795NOK x2 Headunit, second hand 730NOK Random bits( speaker cables, RCA adapters, hi-low level dapter etc etc Adds up to guesstimated 1500NOK, not counting temu and aliexpress. Random bits from temu and aliexpress (theres lots, anything from doorpanel clips to tools, to speaker mounting brackets to a roll of closed cell foam and LED work lights) 2400NOK That adds up to 12410NOK. So if we add the 2000NOK i just payed in parts to repair the windshield wiper mechanism and motor we're at the ammount i payed for the car itself (Bargain of the decade?) AND IM NOT EVEN DONE YET Added ground zero butyl sheets under carpeting. And on outer metal panels of front doors. Did all rca, power and speaker wiring, mounted amp under seat, (still not connected). And added the emphazer sheets to the plastic front doorpanels. And thats where i am now. If weather is nice tomorrow, or if i can manage inside the car with doors closed ill do the inner metal door panel. Aswell as adding the rivnuts to attach the new speakers with. And maybe if im really productive ill get to wire the speakers in and attach the plastic doorpanels again.

Figured id start a thread here showing my progress doing my audio gear upgrades, parts used will be listed as i go along. Join me on this journey xD. To get to this point has taken MONTHS og research, great second hand bargains. Not to mention the countless hours of intense labour, cuts and swearing. In other words "blood sweat and tears".

So bought an aftermarket android headunit for my car, one of the chinese android ones. This one specifically is a used one i got for a good deal, and was purchased originally from a company i think is swedish, 'Azom'. Them obviously having rebranded a chinese one as their own. Azom MX4. Because of that detail im not too worried that the specs are false, but their website does state clearly "will not work with integrated mic or aux plug" where they then give you options to buy an external one. Im stubborn tho, and want to use the integrated one, and have tried doing a continuity check between the two leads on the mic, to the two leads in the matching cable on the PQ connector by the headunit, no continuity. So does it go via the BCU maybe? And if it does could it work without splicing connectors down there? Or should i run a new lead all the way up to the original mic? And adding the connector to the end of it, so i can just connect it to the original one. Will that work. There is a PCB on the original mic, so worried it might not. I am fully aware i 'could just use a different mic in the same spot' and that theyre cheap to order from china, but i am mentally stuck on wanting to use the original one, while using OEM connectors, so it looks like nothings been done, and can be out back to stock easily when time comes to sell it. I also want to do this with the AUX plug, i assume this one will be easier. But one problem at a time. Worth noting: i have VCDS, it reports no faults when original headunit is installed, but when aftermarket one is in a bunch relating to a missing radio shows up. And two more: 'mic left shorted to ground' and 'mic right shorted to gound' Does my car have more than 1 mic? Cause the one mic i know of is mono. Here in the green part of the plug there is a cable with a white and black lead. This cable matches the one connecting the mic in the other end. Any other leads that could be the mic? No continuity atleast. And I would LOVE to know where the green and black cable goes. And the 3 leads connected in the blue area, where do they go?

I should have said "as top notch as can be" considering what the cars been through xD