wimton

Applus (the company that does the testing in the Republic of Ireland) confirmed that the flat beam configuration is allowed. I had it tested at the local garage, just to check, and it passed the MOT.

Thanks for the tip! I found the levers, and I will ask the NCT if this configuration is allowed in the Republic of Ireland. If not, I will glue on 2 new "beam benders" and hunt for RH headlights. These seem to be about 55 E on eBay.

I have an LH drive Roomster in Ireland. The last NCT (a.k.a. MOT, TÜV, APK, etc.) failed on both lights "dipping to the right". I have 2 corrective Fresnel lenses on the headlights, which got me through last year. Can I replace the headlights with the headlights of an RH drive Roomster for a more permanent solution?

To Robjon: Disconnection of the battery did not have any effect 😞 Another detail: the car display only shows once, accompanied by a long beep. After that, it does not show anymore when switching to reverse. After switching of the contact, this repeats,

The parking distance sensors do not work, according to the Skoda dealer, they were all defective. After replacement by the village garage, he got the attached diagnostic. When switching to reverse, the car's outline briefly appears on the radio screen (most of the time). The entertainment CAN bus should work, as the instrument panel displays the radio station. Another weirdness is that the garage could not reset the "service now" indication. He blames it on a software update of his Bosch tools. I could do some raw CAN debugging, any tips as this would be the first car I look at. If it is really a wiring fault, where can I find the loom for the sensors?

I had an issue with the windows not working on my Roomster. At first, it seemed weather-dependent. After a long dry period or leaving the engine running with the heating at full blast for an hour, the problem disappeared briefly. The controller boards of the window motors showed no traces of moisture or corrosion. The diagnosis of the local Skoda garage showed that I needed a new driver-side window motor. Due to the car's age (2006), it is only available for extortionate prices if at all. Paying 400 Euro for a component in a car that costed me 3500 Euro seemed a bit exaggerated. The motor itself is fine when using an external power supply. Also, the forums gave the impression that the repair could be unstable. I got the impression, that if there is an issue with the LIN bus, the whole window system stops working. I could not find any usable information on debugging the Skoda LIN bus. I decided to make a new controller. First I ordered ElseWin to get the electric schematics. It turns out that each window switch is connected to a variable resistor: push: 170 ohm, hard push: 0 ohm, pull: 1800 ohm, hard pull: 540 ohm to ground. This way, 1 wire is sufficient. The original controller has a double relay, one section for up and one section for down. I made a small additional controller that operates the relays directly, depending on the switch's resistance. The original PCB traces from the controller to the relay and the switch input were cut and the new circuit was connected. Diode D1 ensures that the up and down relays are not operated at the same time. This logic also required the use of 2 electronic relays instead of 2 transistors to drive the original relays. The windows work again, with some limitations: you can only operate the window with the switch in the door itself, the auto open/close does not work, and there is no force limiting anymore (we don't have children, so I accept the risk).

Oops, wrong car make. I had an issue with the windows not working on my Roomster. At first, it seemed weather-dependent. After a long dry period or leaving the engine running with the heating at full blast for an hour, the problem disappeared briefly. The controller boards of the window motors showed no traces of moisture or corrosion. The diagnosis of the local Skoda garage showed that I needed a new driver-side window motor. Due to the car's age (2006), it is only available for extortionate prices if at all. Paying 400 Euro for a component in a car that costed me 3500 Euro seemed a bit exaggerated. The motor itself is fine when using an external power supply. Also, the forums gave the impression that the repair could be unstable. I got the impression, that if there is an issue with the LIN bus, the whole window system stops working. I could not find any usable information on debugging the Skoda LIN bus. I decided to make a new controller. First I ordered ElseWin to get the electric schematics. It turns out that each window switch is connected to a variable resistor: push: 170 ohm, hard push: 0 ohm, pull: 1800 ohm, hard pull: 540 ohm to ground. This way, 1 wire is sufficient. The original controller has a double relay, one section for up and one section for down. I made a small additional controller that operates the relays directly, depending on the switch's resistance. The original PCB traces from the controller to the relay and the switch input were cut and the new circuit was connected. Diode D1 ensures that the up and down relays are not operated at the same time. This logic also required the use of 2 electronic relays instead of 2 transistors to drive the original relays. The windows work again, with some limitations: you can only operate the window with the switch in the door itself, the auto open/close does not work, and there is no force limiting anymore (we don't have children, so I accept the risk).