JuSko

The mobile app shows my average fuel consumption over a 24000km in a year to be 7.3 l/100km which translates to 38.7 MPG(UK). I drive mostly motorway with cruise control, maybe 80%, and the rest city driving with relatively light right foot. I believe if one would count only highway portion of my driving it would be over 40 MPG(UK).

The sound like tapping wineglass is what I get as a speeding warning sound. However I have not observed any sound when the car detects a change of speed limit. I have however completely different theory of what is going on. The overspeed warning does not come exactly at the speed limit but from 10km overspeeding. However the speed limit detection of the car is not perfect and sometimes it can be wrong. I think it is likely that in this case the speed limit the car thinks it is on is actually 10km lower than the real speed limit and therefore the OP gets the warning about at the real speed limit. It might be that the car observes the correct speed limit soon after this and therefore the chime does not come again at this same speed but it would come at 10km higher speed. The car shows what it thinks is the speed limit and you can see that sometime it is simply wrong. If somebody is bothered by the chimes they can be turned off as I do as a habit in the beginning of every drive like some other button presses as well.

I think the requirement to drive every day is complete BS. If there would be such requirement it would be a major deal breaker for most buyers. I bet every dealer has plenty of cars on their inventory which stay put for a month or more between drives. I use my 265hp 4x4 also for long distance drives and it gets plenty of rest in between maybe up to 3 weeks so far without any noticeable problems. What I have noticed is that after a week or so of inactivity the keyless entry proximity sensor for approaching key stops working and I have to press a button on the key to open doors. I guess the car goes for some kind of deep sleep after a week of not getting driven. The mobile app and AUX heater still works though.

I have not seen those forum posts that you are talking about but at least the one which reads low-oil warning indicator was lit even when oil was above minimum level sounds like the system could be working okay and exactly as designed. There are 8 digital lines between minimum and maximum oil level and to my understanding the low-oil warning comes when the oil level is 2 lit digital lines above minimum and this is by design to encourage topping up the oil before anything gets broken. The logic is the same as low-fuel warning comes before actually running out of fuel. Those others sound more like the digital oil gauge is broken rather than an accuracy problem. I guess the digital oil gauge can get broken like any other system in the car. My digital oil gauge seems to work logically without any major faults and I have no reason to suspect the accuracy. I don't know how accurate some self mounted dipstick system is. It could also be completely out of whack and show wrong when the digital gauge is correct.

I guess the features of the car are selected by the importer so it depends which country you are buying the car from. In my country the feature called Travel Assist is included in the "Assisted Driving Basic" packet which is standard in Style/Sportline/L&K but not in Essence/Selection trim levels. I had a brief look at the UK brochures but I could not find anything like that in the UK brochure. So maybe that feature does not exist in UK or it just missing from UK brochures. I don't know. Maybe you should go ask your dealer. The Travel Assist Feature which some could call combination of adaptive cruise control and lane centering works quite well and one could use it to drive hundreds of miles of highway without doing anything to steer the car or use gas pedal. The feature keeps the car in the center of the lane and all the driver needs to do is to touch very lightly the steering wheel so that the feature does not start ringing a bell to make sure the driver is paying some level of attention. There is a separate lane assist feature which means the driver is actively steering the car all the time and only if the car seems to go out of the lane this lane assist feature makes a nudge to keep the car inside the lane.

For me the route arrows from android-waze work poorly and only sometimes. If I configure the route to the waze map after starting the car the route does not show on driver display but if I shutdown the car and start it again to continue previously configured route I do get the route arrows on driver display. However it still works poorly. If I cause recalculation of the route for example driving differently than arrows command the driver display stops updating and continues to show the previous abandoned route in a frozen state. Also exits from traffic circles show erroneously on both HUD and on driver display. For these reasons I would prefer the android-waze route not to show on neither hud or on driver display as it does not work reliably. I am totally fine the waze route showing only on the center display and if I ever want route to show at driver screen I can configure the builtin map to show it for me.

I believe there is a HW problem with the ACC stalk that they are fixing with a replacement of the stalk. In addition there could be a SW update issues which i do not know about and which they are fixing all at once. My superb was delivered with ACC not working with a clear HW problem with the "set" button in the end of the stalk. It took 2 weeks to get the replacement part in and the changing of the part took half a day when it was originally booked for an hour. The overall system did not recognize the new stalk right away before some further reset of other components was the explanation to me why it took half a day. This was the first time the technician was encountering the issue so part of the half a day was trying to figure out what is going on. I believe planned replacement should go faster as they should have clear instructions what to do. manufactured in mid-january and delivered mid-march. No other problems with the car. Very happy.

I don't think this is a good answer. The vehicle has its own will and it really wants to be in "auto" mode regarding headlights and especially L&K with matrix headlights has real value being in the automatic mode and so I don't think many people want to take the car away from "auto" mode. Second the VCDS and other aftermarket programming tools to my understanding do not work on most recent Skodas including Superb mk4 and the only place where to these settings could be changed are official dealers which to my understanding many are less than enthusiastic going changing the settings. I do know that this tweaking the tail light settings is technically possible and some Superb mk4s do have tail lights on when driving in bright daylight. However to my experience the "auto" mode on headlights seem to work really well and seems eager to turn the proper headlights on and also the tail lights pretty early when daylight gets only a little bit dimmer so I do not think having tail lights off on the most bright daytime is a super major problem. The real situation where having the tail lights on would be most beneficiary is driving in heavy rainfall during bright day where having the tail lights off is a safety problem. I believe the eagerness of the Superb mk4 to turn proper headlights on even in slight dimming of daylight would solve this problem as the proper headlights and also taillights might very well come on during this heavy rainfall situation.

I have the 265hp and the octane recommendation is 95. I am running 98 for now though. There is a rumour that the intake manifold injectors have been removed from this EA888.4 engine which were present in EA888.3 engines.

In another forum there was a picture of which did not look bad https://www.skodacommunity.de/attachments/1731152861214-png.269381/ using this dongle https://www.amazon.de/-/en/QIANRENON-Adapter-Female-Connection-Vertical-silver/dp/B0CF8ZG4SQ I think the difference to regular usb-c to usb-c cable is minimal. I believe the 90 degree angles make a huge difference keeping the cables near the mirror housing. Having a straight dongle to push the cable far into the air from the mirror housing would look really bad as you probably were imagining. There is something I am wondering because that dongle seems to promise 120W throughput so maybe that dongle is not dumb enough. So maybe it the cable needs to be the really dumb one. Let's see how it goes. Do I get it to work.

There seems to be a problem with the power supply using a USB-C to USB-C cable from the rearview mirror port as described for example here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530035-a-pillar-trim-removal-suggestions/ It seems to work with some dashcams and not on some others and VIOFO seems to be one which can have problems. I haven't tested it yet as my superb seems to be 2 weeks away from delivery but I have ordered parts for myself as I think I have found out from other forums what the problem is. The problem is fixed if instead of a straight USB-C to USB-C cable there is an USB-A connection in between like if you have an USB-C to USB-A dongle and then a USB-A to USB-C cable. The technical explanation why this happens seems to be a conflict between "smart" and "dumb" charging modes. Traditional "dumb" USB-A charging works on 5V-2A=10W mode and nothing else USB-C has multiple charging modes and with these it can up the power to 45, 65 or 100W modes increasing voltage and whatnot. The viofo dashcam spec says that viofo dashcam should not be connected to mobile phone chargers which are "smart" USB-C chargers. The USB-C ports on Superb are also "smart" ports and can supply 45W or 15W. Unfortunately the viofo dashcam does not understand the mode negotiations and it makes the "smart" USB-C port unhappy. The solution is to put an USB-A connection in between which breaks the mode negotiation and both ends of the connection fall into default 5V-2A mode and everything works.

The usage of the car affects also pressure. If you go ride on a track they recommend increasing pressure over 3 bar. Maybe somebody thinks the high power version gets driven harder than the rest and thinks putting the foot down with the 265 hp engine demands higher tire pressure.

Would you be so kind and tell which dashcam make and model it is that does not work from the USB-C I am considering purchasing a Viofo A229 Plus and it seems to have specs for 5V 2A and I am wondering whether I should purchase something else instead. If any of you have some modern dashcam that does work I would like to hear about which ones do work.