CianKT

Could be anything, but will probably be something with the DPF, hopefully just a sensor fault

It's very possible to wear out a single gear but it's generally lower down the box due to more frequent changes. I have the same combo 2017 2.0 6 speed manual estate. Generally if I get any vibration it is because the car is in too low a gear for the rpm. Could be something to do with the steering rack, the Mrs occasionally has random vibrations in her Hyundai at motorway speed but in her case she has one of the infamous damaged star bushes for the electric power steering motor, but I think the Octavia is good old hydraulic.

+1 for Shell HX8 5W30, only started running it but been really impressed with it, engine is so smooth even though it only has 4000km until it needs changing

I have the 150hp manual version so the step below the vrs, it's on 300,000 km (186,000 miles) and drive about 45,000km (28,000 miles) a year, I've had no issues with it, only had to replace the interior blower motor and controller, screen wash pump and I have a minor oil leak from the crank shaft cover but that will be done when the timing belt is done. My advice would be find a car that has a good service record on particular oil services on or around time.

I have been using Total Energy Quartz Ineo Long Life 5w30 for 2 years with Blue Print Oil Filters it does the job but I recently swapped over to Shell Helix HX8 ECT 5w30 with a Mahle Oil Filter and I can say the engine is running like a dream, very smooth and I'm getting great economy average 4.5l/100km and sometimes as low as 4.1l/100km on my 2017 2.0 CRMB TDI with 297,000km with diesel from a Supermarket

If I remember correctly you need to remove the gear stick boot first then you can pop out the surround

Best option is probably get a wheel the same size you have, go to a breakers yard and you should find a good price on it

I've been using Total Ineo long life 5W30 in my 2.0 TDI was good value, recently used Shell HX8 ECT, engine runs like a dream with it. My advice though would be use the oil finder on the likes of Shell, Castrol and see what they recommend for your engine. Do not use Halfords finders they've always been off. For coolant I've been using some G13 from Euro Car Parts, the current recommended stuff is G12 Evo though. Personally I would go to Euro Car Parts, you can check stock in your local branch and if it's not on display give the guys the item code and it usually down the back.

Could be the crank sensor, something similar happend to the Mrs on an old mercedes she had

Looks like Skoda do have the following https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e1713203afsi7-gear-shift-cover-skoda-50611.html The link is for a LHD but there's a link to the RHD version in the description it just doesn't have an picture

Random warnings can be a sign

You are probably better off buying new bars as there is a high chance that the bars you have are too short for the Octavia.

It was actually 2017, my facelift is an April registration. I would say the MK4 is overall better, mind you I haven't driven one, I personally like the looks of it.

Most obvious difference in the front bumper, the original has a single head light, which the facelift has a split head light which is split by the bumper. Another difference is the stereo has capacitive touch buttons whilst the original has tactile buttons. There's probably a lot more I've missed but they're small things.

As part of the servicing I do myself I measure the brake pad thickness, now the method I use is highly susceptible to inaccurate reading, I use a tape measure and a small screwdriver to push it against the disc and measure to the pad backing. The front pads seem to have not changed at all over the last 45000 km, the pads have been on 160000km which I think probably should require replacement but 75% is just motorway cruising. That apart is uneven wear on the front pads common? After previously having a Hyundai as my main car which are generally renowned for uneven wear and changing them every 30000km and around 50% wear mostly as I was in heavy stop start traffic, I'm just curious how come my pads have lasted so long.

One way I have found which is a bit hit and miss is watch the recommended gear, if it's doing a regen it will be recommending a lower gear to increase the exhaust temp

VW don't use a sump gasket on their engines they use RTV silicone

When I was using my Halfords roof box, oddly it's made by Thule, I had the front bar as far forwards as I could and the rear was about in the middle of the rear doors. Ultimately it will depend on the size of your roof box, my advice would be when you do the first fit leave the boot open as it opens at nearly 90 degrees so can crash into any roof box, with larger loads I would put them in the middle of each.door frame.

I agree with this, it's been a godsend for me, plus you can generally get some packs, I got mine as a pack with the reader, magnetic phone holder, VW adaption subscription and 200 mod credits

Clicking whilst turning and at slow speed tends to indicate a bad CV joint on the front axle

Mines moved forward a few times mostly thanks to a car wash when I forget to close the mirrors had no issues what so ever

Sounds like it's either the wrong size and when closed it is still trying to close, it's not getting a closed signal so it is still trying to close and grinding the gears or it needs some sort of homing to establish it's open and closed position.

Was the scan done using something like VCDS or OBDEleven? If it was a generic OBD scanner it may have missed VW specific codes.

If you have a multimeter check your battery a lot of starting issues are related to that

Best thing to do would be to get the car up in the air and spin the wheel to hear if the wheel is rattling