CianKT

Random warnings can be a sign

You are probably better off buying new bars as there is a high chance that the bars you have are too short for the Octavia.

It was actually 2017, my facelift is an April registration. I would say the MK4 is overall better, mind you I haven't driven one, I personally like the looks of it.

Most obvious difference in the front bumper, the original has a single head light, which the facelift has a split head light which is split by the bumper. Another difference is the stereo has capacitive touch buttons whilst the original has tactile buttons. There's probably a lot more I've missed but they're small things.

As part of the servicing I do myself I measure the brake pad thickness, now the method I use is highly susceptible to inaccurate reading, I use a tape measure and a small screwdriver to push it against the disc and measure to the pad backing. The front pads seem to have not changed at all over the last 45000 km, the pads have been on 160000km which I think probably should require replacement but 75% is just motorway cruising. That apart is uneven wear on the front pads common? After previously having a Hyundai as my main car which are generally renowned for uneven wear and changing them every 30000km and around 50% wear mostly as I was in heavy stop start traffic, I'm just curious how come my pads have lasted so long.

One way I have found which is a bit hit and miss is watch the recommended gear, if it's doing a regen it will be recommending a lower gear to increase the exhaust temp

VW don't use a sump gasket on their engines they use RTV silicone

When I was using my Halfords roof box, oddly it's made by Thule, I had the front bar as far forwards as I could and the rear was about in the middle of the rear doors. Ultimately it will depend on the size of your roof box, my advice would be when you do the first fit leave the boot open as it opens at nearly 90 degrees so can crash into any roof box, with larger loads I would put them in the middle of each.door frame.

I agree with this, it's been a godsend for me, plus you can generally get some packs, I got mine as a pack with the reader, magnetic phone holder, VW adaption subscription and 200 mod credits

Clicking whilst turning and at slow speed tends to indicate a bad CV joint on the front axle

Mines moved forward a few times mostly thanks to a car wash when I forget to close the mirrors had no issues what so ever

Sounds like it's either the wrong size and when closed it is still trying to close, it's not getting a closed signal so it is still trying to close and grinding the gears or it needs some sort of homing to establish it's open and closed position.

Was the scan done using something like VCDS or OBDEleven? If it was a generic OBD scanner it may have missed VW specific codes.

If you have a multimeter check your battery a lot of starting issues are related to that

Best thing to do would be to get the car up in the air and spin the wheel to hear if the wheel is rattling

When I got my 2017 facelift estate I was originally looking at the 1.6 ended up getting the 2.0 150hp, I do about 28k a year and I'm getting about 55-60mpg on a combination of motorway and main road driving. Personally I think the 2.0 is a better option not only is it more powerful it comes with a 6 speed manual and not the 5 speed in the 1.6 at least that's the case in Ireland.

Update: Finally received an OEM Bosch unit from skoda-parts.com, great price and fast dispatch but seriously deceiving delivery time frame, used FedEx 2-4 business day, ended up being 9 business days. Resistor/Controller has been replaced, fan is no longer running at 100% all the time and I can vary the speed and there's no codes, I will test it for a while and rescan and come back. After disassembling the old Hitachi/Huko unit it smelt of burning. Hopefully it was just an unfortunate luck of getting a bad unit.

Update: I finally have the OBDEleven scanner, I've finally got a code B10BE31. From Googling it appears to suggest the Blower Motor Controller, I'm assuming it's referring to what is called the Blower Resistor (J126 Module), am I right? If so did I just seem to get unlucky and get a bad resistor? or is there something else i should look for? is there any resistor I should get? I thought buying a Hitachi would be good as they're a reputable brand, should i just get the OEM Bosch version? also has anyone bought anything from Skoda-parts.com?

Quick update: I've managed to obtain an electrical drawing for the MK3, from this it appears that the high pressure AC sensor feeds the switched live input to the blower resistor when I pulled the connector off there was a very audible click. After this I metered the switched live without the ignition on and I was getting a variable voltage of about 8.9-9.3 volts, I was expecting this to be 0 volts. After doing some further research from other forums it would appear that the fan uses PWM control which would explain the fluctuating voltage, my understanding of PWM control would be that the rotary switch would affect the voltage value am I wrong on this? I have an OBDEleven on order but won't have it until the weekend courtesy of Easter, will provide another update when I can do a scan.

Following a combination of an advisory on my NCT (Irish MOT) for a Tire Pressure warning and the need to do a full system scan, what is the best scanner for use with the MK3? I know the gold standard is VCDS, I've also heard a lot of people recommend OBDEleven, are there any other I am missing? Ideally i need to be able to read and clear VAG Specific codes as well as being able to code in a new battery as that's a ticking time bomb as it's the original battery from 2017, thankfully i do a lot of motorway mileage so it's probably not as bad as i think it may potentially be. Appreciate all suggestions.

I don't have any sensors behind my mirror, i just have a basic mirror and heater controller, it literally has AC, Rear defrost and Recirculate air, from what i can tell it is an OEM Part number 5E0820047D. Regarding the initial fan stopping it was only 2 weeks prior to it being replaced, and the fan running at full power only started today.

Hi All Long time browser first time poster. Have a weird and annoying issue, my interior blower Motor runs at 100% with or without the ignition on and it happened whilst i was driving so had to pull over and pull the power cable as there was a burning smell. I've replaced both the Blower and the Blower Resistor with the following last Friday: Blower Motor: https://www.auto-doc.ie/nrf/13865402 Blower Resistor: https://www.auto-doc.ie/hitachi/15894358 I replaced both parts as my blower motor would have a mind of it's own, it would turn on sometimes and then turn off, when I took it off i found the Blower appeared to be slightly burnt and the Resistor had a burnt smell. In the week I've had a properly running Blower it has been ramping up and down occasionally, I only use 2 fan speeds, 3 or 6. Have i just got unlucky with the resistor? or has my heater control unit gone? Appreciate any help especially as I'm due to head away for the easter weekend