Moorland

Ok, fair point. I've removed the advert now as I didn't come here to fall out with people.

@mac11irl whatever, and you've not seen the PMs. But the point of a for sale advert is not for people to post reasons they won't buy it, that's more what Facebook is for.

Seems to be everyone has to ask their wife for permission. I buy what I want and she buys what she wants in this household because we're both adults with jobs.

Countdown continues, getting cubed on Wednesday. Before the hiab picks it up I will run the engine without oil, put every window through and do every panel as it seems to be unsellable. All for the sake of a turbo.

Maybe so @Jimb0b, but after advertising it for some time now, including on another Skoda forum, I can only conclude nobody wants to take on a project any more, even at bargain money. Easier just to lease a new Chinese EV I suppose.

Fair warning, this car will be scrapped this time next week if still nobody is interested. I won't be breaking it for bits so all the good bits including the 6 speed gearbox, newly serviced Haldex and less than 1000 mile rear tyres will all get fed through the fragger. That's the reality, ding ding, last orders.

Yes it has cruise control.

Bump to say I have had some interest but offers are invited. I've been upfront about the turbo problem, it's very repairable but could be a good source of spares if nothing else. I'm not going to let it hang around indefinitely so don't miss out assuming it'll still be for sale.

Ok, sounds interesting. 50kw is 67bhp so a reasonable amount of power but nothing extreme. Your first priority should be to make sure the front brakes are good as they do most of the work. Get the best pad material you can, but for road use don't be tempted with racing pads or anything that needs warming up. See how you get on and if you develop the car further for more power you can review again.

James Hunt and his Austin A35 van

Advert removed by vendor.

Good advice. Key thing to remember is that tyres are cheaper than bodywork! It's a fair warning about over-tyre-ing a car too. It's 25 years since I had an Estelle but you want it to remain nimble so going too wide and low profile is inappropriate, same as anything. I made the assumption the OP would stay on standard width wheels as he didn't state otherwise. Blockley make some good stuff, normally well reviewed.

Think there is a gasket on the tailgate strut that can let water in (rarely). Due to VAG love of Torx it may not have been tightened properly if it's been off before. Worth a look?

Any oil is better than no oil! But seriously, these engines seem quite robust by modern standards and it sounds like yours has been serviced quite frequently, plus you've had the belt done. Key thing is to keep on top of it and do regular checks on the levels as it gets older. You'll probably be fine.

Good summary. My yeti also has hill descent which I have used on rough tracks when very icy. It takes a leap of faith but it's very effective.

And then I remember the time I imported from America a pair of very difficult to find brake discs for a BMW for many £££, only to have them come back into general stock 6 months later for comparative pennies. I still have them sat on the shelf 10 years later...

Interesting parts link. I note rear drums are currently out of stock with no restocking date. However, there are various small manufacturers in the UK who can scan/copy a spare drum then cast and machine in either steel or aluminium. Cost depends on batch volumes of course. Nothing that can be made is truly unobtainable. Shame we can't 3D print them!

Hi @DemoVrh: As nta16 says above, better tyres may give you an immediate improvement through either a wider contact patch, better sidewall stability or just a stickier rubber compound. You don't say why you want to change to disc brakes, what problem you are really trying to solve? I assume your car is driving on normal roads. The motorsport homologation paper A-5193 for the Skoda 120LS shows you all the authorised upgrades for building a 120 factory specification rally car in 1984. This car retains drum brakes at the rear and the use of good brake material combined with the front discs was good enough for motorsport where brakes are used much harder. Unless you want to build a Group B 130, it is cheaper and easier to check your tyres, service the rear shoes and maybe change the shoe material. You may find they are out of adjustment and never been doing any work. Good luck.

Hello all, I've signed up here as it's time to sell my Yeti and I figure this is a good place to do so. Other than the Yeti I've also had a Citigo and (25 years ago) a 105 Estelle. What I'd give to have that back... I'll post a for sale notice as soon as I can. Moorland