MichalK

I appreciate your comment, thank you. I'll update this post when I get the car serviced in a couple of weeks!

Thank you for the reassurance, I do appreciate it a lot. Take care!

Part service history. Second service in my possession, usually was serviced rather well (missing a couple over the years, notably over COVID), but it never got more than 8000 miles a year. It was on around 62000 miles when I bought it, and it is now on roughly 71400 miles.

I wouldn't think more than 11000 at the most. Maybe 11500 at the very maximum.

It's running 5w30 oil that I bought off my mechanic, a family friend. No clue what type, though I could go and ask him what it was that he sold me 😂

Thanks all, you are right in your analysis - there are worse rust buckets on the roads.

Old post, but there is a digital speedometer on my 2013 model which can be activated by flicking through the pages on the MFD on the dashboard itself.

Good afternoon, I will be attending a course for the first three weeks of May. My car is just barely due a service (maybe 100 miles overdue now, if that). This course will require me to drive there and back twice (four trips of 120mi each) and then I will be using the car whilst on the residential course, meaning that I may rack up close to 600ish miles over the three weeks. Will this have a negative impact on the car's longevity? It's a 2013 Skoda Citigo Sport with decent service history - I've owned it for a year now (this will be its second service) and I've not had any issues. The timing belt was done when the car was bought, and I've done nearly 10000 miles in the car now. What do you guys think? Financially and time-wise it would be incredibly difficult to schedule a service between now and going away, but will it be alright anyway?

Thank you very much for your help, I'll keep this post updated with how I get on.

If this is the case, could I intercept the wire running from the left switch to the BCM, and then either wire would activate the left window? I guess I'll sack off the "one-touch" bit then! 😂 I'm not quite at that skill level just yet.

Hi, thanks for your quick response. I doubt that there is existing wiring to the door handle from the left side of the car. However, I'd be willing to run a wire from the switch to the other side of the car if necessary. If so, would any insulated copper wire suffice? Do I need to ground this switch, or can I just run the one wire?

Hello all, hopefully everyone is doing well. I am just wondering how I could go about fitting dual window switches to my 2013 Škoda Citigo Sport? Mine comes with only one switch per side, and so I can't open the passenger window from the driver side. Ideally, I'd want switches with the "one-touch facility", but the ones that I've found that I would guess to be compatible come from the VW up!, leaving me unsure whether they will have such a function. In any case, how would I go about retrofitting these switches to my car? I understand that I'd have to rewire some stuff and run a wire to the opposite side of the car, but is that it? How much time should I set aside for this and what kind of tools would I need?

For those in the future with a similar issue, I would like to note down my experience. When I had a similar issue, I looked at the fuse, and it seemed absolutely fine. I then checked the sidelights - they worked too. Why shouldn't the DRLs work? Turns out that the bulbs are, in fact, dual-filament. If you're unsure, it might be worth the trip to get yourself a pair of the bulbs - they're really easy to replace.

Welcome back! Hopefully your daughter enjoys the car, as someone new to driving myself (just turned 18), I really like the car. It's fun to drive, corners like it's on rails, and is more than tolerable, even on a 4+ hour drive. Also, the insurance should be alright, even as a male in a "deprived area" I only pay £2000/year with a black box. Take care, enjoy the Škoda 👍

Hello all, I've successfully completed this retrofit myself, and it gets a +1 from me - massive thank you for the detailed guide. One thing that I noticed on my 2013 model is that the barbs are fully activated when in the sidelights position. Once I'd popped out the trim on the side of the dash, I pushed on the headlight switch gently with my right hand (RHD model) and pushed the knob in, to the sidelights position, and then pulled it out nice and easy. Thanks again for the guide, hopefully my quick reply saves someone the four minutes it took me to figure out why I couldn't pull the switch out 😂