skotskod

That's a good point, I had 2 front springs replaced on mine, but I went through a trusted VAG independent specialist, think they were originals. Lesjöfors is a Swedish company, which I thought sounded ok, until i saw they have a subsidiary in China: http://www.linkedin.com/company/lesj-fors-china I read on an Alfa forum they were to be avoided, probably made from dried noodles.

This may be my superstition, but when I did my cleaning of the TB and took it for a drive, there was no change, then I had the MAF off and cleaned it, still no change. It as only when I hooked up VAGCOM and saw I still had those fault codes and cleared them, that the problem went away. Driving the car and ignition on/foff a few times ought to have the same effect: I assume the computer collects data over a period of time and averages it, so it may take some time for any faulty readings to clear out. This also leads to the situation where a dealer can claim to have fixed a problem, reset the code(s), then it re-appears after a week (which happened to me with Winchester Skoda who failed to find the split PCV hose and just cleared the codes and charged me 100 quid for the privilidge. This prompted me to get a VAGCOM cable, get the code and spend 10 mins on Briskoda and locate/fix the problem). But you seem to have tried everything so it's a bit of a mystery.

Have you actually had the MAF out and cleaned it by spraying with IPA (iso propyl alcohol aka electrical switch cleaner)? 3 weeks ago I started to get lumpy idle on my 51 reg vrs with the following codes: 17705, 17545, 16393, 16514. I cleaned the TB first (as per Chicken's instructions, then the MAF, got no relief, then cleared the codes and all was well. For the MAF, once off I sprayed it directly, then put it in a zip placcy bag and shook it up with sprayed liquid, left for 5 mins then 2 mins with the hair dryer and back on. (Better instructions on MAF cleaning are here somewhere. They say to leave overnight but i just used the hair dryer.) It seems to me that when the air/fuel settings get out of kilter it can produce several seemingly disparate and unconnected error codes. The Y breather pipe I replaced about 18 months ago and "under manifold pipe" last June (both standard VW parts) and i don't think I have any other leaks. I assume the above codes were probably down to the MAF reading wrongly, prob made worse by the throttle being gunked up a bit. The erratic idle which I had was one you could feel as much as hear, it would dip down every couple of secs from about 750 to 500rpm. It seemed to happen particularly after a run where you were also aware of some hesitation and power loss when pottling back home on local roads after leaving the motorway, HTH.

How about this only 7 quid from John Lewis

I read somewhere on a forum of someone cutting the strainer end off the pickup pipe and welding on a much larger one from another engine. (later) Found it: look in this thread. I like the way VW try to sell an upgrade for $700 for what is essentially a design flaw (too small diameter of strainer screen for the flow required). There is a wealth of stuff on the net you can find about the 1.8T and sludge, but very little detail as to what causes it in the first place. There is talk that the turbo engine runs the oil very hot which can cook the oil and precipitate out carbon solids, which collect in the strainer and block the flow. Full synthetic helps alleviate it, as does regular oil changes (I've seen 5k mentioned). There may be other problems in the engine design which exacerbate the sludge formation of course, but VAG don't seem to have admitted anything (no recalls etc).

I did wonder if perhaps they had been using it as a handy ashtray.

Depends what you mean by cheaper - detail from the invoice: Pictures of the oil pickup strainer which had been 'checked' and cleaned by garage #1: I have however received a full refund from garage#1, which is good news. Mikey, I hope that you aren't suggesting that Monks Brook Motors Ltd. of School Lane Industrial Estate in Chandler's Ford Hampshire shouldn't be repairing cars.? I would never say that, but others may like to draw their own conclusions from the above discussion. On the other hand, Steve Monk at Monks Auto (no relation) seems to know what he is doing, trustworthy as well, unlike some.

Some better news: The latest is that garage #2 has dropped the sump and found ... the oil pick tube strainer was blocked. They also opened the bearing covers (that were accessible) and found no wear problems. So no reason to believe that it wasn't just the strainer sludged up that was the problem all along. They will be re-fitting an original pump (which comes with a pickup tube/strainer apparently), steam cleaning the sump and refill with 5w/40 fully synth. The old pick up tube and replacement pump will be retained for examination by garage #1. I'll take pics of the offending article and post here. I should be collecting the car Fri morning all being well.

I think you'll be alright tbh. I have a gut feeling my probs are down to missing the last oil change ('er indoors took it in for MoT in Nov and forgot to tell them to oil service as well. Being lazy, we thought we'd leave it til the spring). Trouble is, I do about 300 miles a week, so that 4k extra, plus the oil change was already overdue in Nov. However, from the torrent of stuff I've now read on the net about sludge problems in 1.8T engines, it would seem that cleaning the sump and strainer/pickup at, say, 100k could be good preventative maintenance. BTW your 'cleaning throttle body' guide was top notch, excellent pics and all.

Decided to arrange to get a second opinion (VAG specialist) who will drop the sump again and check everything out, including taking a peep inside the bearing covers. At least I should know what's wrong if it is a major failure of some kind. This will be early next week, so stayed tuned for the next exciting episode. In the meantime, when was the last time you changed your oil? Sleep well, don't have nightmares....

We've had it since it was 18 months old (when it was 18k, now 118k) and haven't missed a yearly service, so I guess in 8 years that works out at 12.5k per, so a bit over the recommended. Up until a couple of years ago it was done at Winchester Skoda, but they ****ed me off with saying they had fixed a leaking hose when they hadn't touched it, so I've been going to a local garage for the last couple of years (servicing plus the 2 broken front springs). vrs180: the stuck pressure relief valve sounds a possibility, I'm sure they must have checked that, but if not, its worth a go. In this forum it seemed he had similar symptoms to mine but it was not the problem (and also difficult to get back in) -the oil oil pickup was blocked. I wish mine could have been the same. For anyone wondering, this explanation gives a good account of what happens if the pressure relief valves (both the pump and filter) gets stuck open.

Bad news from my garage. Oil pressure check shows 50% of what it should be apparently. Nothing more to do except have the engine out and try and fix, but he doesn't recommend this as it's probably not going to be economic. Possible worn crankshaft sleeves or something. It's done 118k, 51 plate and had been running smooth up until a week ago. How can that happen so quick? Any other good suggestions gratefully received - else I think its going to be ebay unless anyone here wants it. I'd put it on 'car for sale' here but I'm getting 'You cannot start a new topic' - why is that? More than slightly p'd off now.

That's right, the return to the sump is ok, it's just being starved of oil on the way up. Is there just one feed from the pump to the top end (not sure how this works, is it a separate pipe or single channel inside the block? With multiple channels, you wouldn't expect all to get blocked and for at least some oil to get up top). If a single channel/pipe got blocked then maybe the pressure at the pump actually gets too high and the pressure relief valve dumps oil/pressure back to sump. or the pressure relief valve is stuck on. It's really weird. The initial symptoms were red oil light coming on when I went up and over the local speed humps first thing in the morning. Later, next day when I was driving home, it come on when I was going up a little hill. This all sounds like oil draining to the back of the sump and/or blocked strainer/pick up.But it was clean. I don't think I drove more than 1.5 miles when it started to flash on/off/on etc on the way home, so I can't believe major damage has been done. It certainly didn't get noisy at all. Still waiting to hear any news on the pressure test though, radio silence yesterday..

I'm hoping so. Still waiting to hear result of pressure test. They checked the turbo/bearing and that's ok btw. Just worried now 'cos a blocked oil way would not give low pressure would it? (slightly the opposite probably, as there is effectively less volume to pump against), so the only thing left is main bearings...

+2 broken springs on this one already!

This is what I found just last week when I cleaned out my throttle body then the MAF, still had a rough idle problem. But when I cleared the codes with VAG-COM, it was fine again

Ok I'm assuming this is the oil pickup tube - if the flanged end presumably bolts onto the oil pump, I guess it would have all been removed if the oil pump was changed and checked. If it wasn't actually removed and the strainer gauze was not visibly blocked, then I would have thought it unlikely the pipe part itself could be blocked. But the price of this part, it could have just been replaced really.

Well they just said it was clean, with no sign of gunking up, which was why they replaced the oil pump as that was the next likely thing. However, they didn't actually say they removed the pick up strainer and stripped it. I'll ask him tomorrow. Is there a piccy of this little bugger anywhere so i can visualize what going on? Is it just a pipe with matal gauze or something at the entry to filter larger particles? Presumably if there is still a blockage inside the pick up, the oil pressure test at the oil pump will show some anomaly surely? My worry is that the oil pump pressure looks fine and pressure is being leaked big time somewhere between the pump and the top end and the only thing to suggest will be strip the engine.

Previous week I'd actually had the MAF and throttle body off and cleaned both as I was experiencing rough idle. That cured it but I don't think that was in any way related to this problem. I've also read on an Audi TT forum that a leaking cam chain tensioner could cause low oil pressure at the top end. Garage guy is thinking maybe blocked oil ways and might take the head off to inpect.

A couple of mornings last week I got the red oil pressure warning light coming on from starting after a few hundred yards drive, then went away. Both times i doubled back home and topped the oil up (first time it was below the lower level on the stick, 2nd time it was ok but I just added 100ml more just in case). On both days I drove 100 miles. On the second day just as I was nearing home (couple of mile) it came on again, went away, then came on again. So I limped it home. Next day it was driven to local garage about a mile away with no warning coming on. He's had the sump off - found no gunking or blockage, but decided to replace the oil pump. But there's still a problem - no oil to the top end (had the rocker cover off and not a drop coming through). A pressure check at the bottom end is being done, awaiting result. What else could it be? Next stage is to have the head off and check for blocked oil ways. Else it looks like a new engine. Can it really go this bad in such a short time? I realise driving with a dry top end could quickly knacker it, but I didn't drive much more than 2-3 miles when the warning was on.

Hi, been lurking here for a few years and not had much cause to complain about my 51 Octavia vRS, til now. The story: 1) engine management light came on before trip to Lake District, so went to a local bloke, breather hose replaced; ok for 400 miles, then light came back on, back to same guy who said it was a fuel pressure problem, have to go to dealer. 2) Tried a local Seat place but they were cagey about fault codes 'may not be the same' or some crap so took it to nearest Skoda (reluctantly). Said they found an air leak (but no parts on the bill: 'only' one hour labour. Drive for 100 miles, light back on. rather than repeating steps 1 and 2 (and using up 190 quid each time round the loop), I bought a VAG-COM lead from a guy on eBay and eventually got round to looking at it this lunchtime. 17544 error. Much Google-izing later and a poke under the engine covers, I come to the conclusion that its the (infamous?) vacuum pipe under the manifold to the right of the dipstick. I haven't removed the bracket in front of the manifold yet but the pipe feels like mush and there is what looks some tape round the hose just beyond the first bend (no wonder no charge for parts from the stealer ... or maybe they missed off that well known VAG part "15cm electricians tape"). If you look at Pic & part number help pls you find a post on uk-mkivs with some good pictures and instructions on replacement of this hose. Anyway, the real reason for this post is that it looks like from that link (search for "Item 26 references a different page on ETKA") that the correct part number 06A 103 221 BK (was AF) may easily be confused in the ETKA catalogue with the Y shaped oil breather hose (Item 13A, same number with AH suffix). The catalog on vagcat.com refers you to another page which is one named "Ventilation for Cylinder Head Cover"). Item 26. appears in the ventilation diagram as item 10 on that page btw. I've actually replaced that other hose (06A 103 221 AH) as well (oil fumes in the cabin), pictures Split bloody crankcase breather hose and Hose underneath engine cover! - SEAT Cupra.net - SEAT Forum So when you are ordering these hoses, make sure you get the right suffix (AH for the Y shaped oil breather hose, BK for the kinked vacuum hose). The AH is about 27 quid, the BK 12 quid. Its been mentioned here before but it perhaps wasn't obvious that the part numbers were so similar. Pictures of the botched tape up fix to follow and hopefully a happy end to this tale.