Space_Cow

Cant say which is was but having the egr cooler and the oil cooler off sorted it. I changed both at the same time as it was convenient for me so unfortunately im not entirely sure which it was.

As far as I can tell (I havent fitted these to my car so pinch of salt) if you are using gen 1 / original osram LED you need this adaptor for the projector light on a mk2: OSRAM 64210DA01 LEDriving Adapter for Night Breaker H7 LED; Lamp Holder, Silver : Amazon.de: Automotive Link to german amazon as you cant seem to find them here. part number is 64210da01 If you are using the new gen / gen 2 which is the thinner body of LED I think you use: OSRAM LEDriving Adapter 64210DA01-1 Adapter for Night Breaker H7 LED; Lamp Holder, Silver : Amazon.de: Automotive which is part number 64210DA01-1 Id love to let you know how they work but ive ordered 64210DA01-1 by mistake! Ha

Ive had a few different cars with chain issues, including one car with the exact engine of yours. It doesnt sound like chain issue, when ive heard the chains they are much louder than that. Id be tempted to have the rocker cover off and just inspect the general health of the top end of the engine as best as possible as other has said camshaft potentially. 180K on a petrol its certainly getting up there in milage its likely wear and tear elsewhere in the engine is probably fair to assume. You did well to get it to where you did on its first chain ones ive seen are around 100k miles it needs doing.

Ive been ignoring the ever growing vibration as much as possible but have gotten a week off specifically to work on my car soon so looking to start getting bits sorted might aswell have a look I suspect the turbo is on its way out but welcome to suggestions. The noise is at 2k RPM, any gear, only 100rpm lower or higher and its completely fine. Something rotational is hitting some sort of resonant frequency and shaking through the car. The best I could describe it would be like strapping a giant electric toothbrush to the car at 2000 RPM it sings loud Almost like the car is struggling like you would before a stall but right at your peak torque so you just get the vibration feeling with non of the stalling engine behaviour This happens in all gears, stationary or not but is worse under load in 5th and stepping down each gear the vibration get lesser but can still feel stationary. It feels right as its where the turbo starts to come to life and in the last few weeks noticed oil coming from the exit side of my intercooler so figure turbo is probably on its way out. Anyone had anything like this? It is really odd. The only other thread I can find of this someone mentions timing and aux pulleys, there where done mid to end 2024 so not super new but new enough as to where I am not concerned it is these. I have had a quick check on belt condition no cracks what youd expect from a 2 year old belt, looks pretty fresh. Its never had a DMF or clutch done and its at 115k so it could be this but I have absolutely no problems going into any gears at all and no clunkyness from the clutch

Hi, I know there is plenty of info online but it seems people just lose their minds with the thought of removing the cooler too most leave in place. well my cooler is faulty and is coming out... All I need to know is relating to the pipework to the EGR cooler, as far as I can tell I just need to take out the EGR cooler, run the hose coming from engine head straight to the firewall heater core area. There isnt any additional piping going in there right? I will be able to tell once im at the job but ideally id like to have all parts in hand at the time. I dont see it being much bother if I dont have the right kit afaik I just need joiners plus some pipe length at most which im sure i can grab at the time. But still... Any help well appreciated Also I planned on just leaving the vacuum pipe folded over and tiptied closed unless someone has a better method?

For anyone wondering I have ordered the necessary parts to remove my EGR cooler and replace the oil cooler. I've got a week off at the start of march to fit a bunch of parts I've been meaning to do, the car is booked in for remap at the end of that week so either the problem gets resolved happy days. Or the car meets a firey death on a Dyno. I'm still putting daily miles on the car it's still about the same. Just very very slow coolant loss. I've lost maybe 1mm of depth on the coolant tank for every 150 miles. This just can't be head at this point I've gone too far for issues not to have gotten worse or overheated. Il try and update the thread and see what component was faulty in the end

Awww man if it's hard on an Octavia I have no chance haha

I'm bsw and for sure the egr and egr cooler comes off before the turbo and exhaust manifold afaik all 1.9TDI are like that. On every design I've seen the egr cooler bolts to the exhaust manifold. That's what the three bolt holes are for on any 1.9tdi exhaust manifold online. I think it's one of those that looks harder than it is. Once the intake and egr are out the way it's a case of three bolts on the back of the egr cooler to take it off the manifold and I think 3 bolts on egr itself aswell as 2 bolts for egr connection pipe afaik there is only 8 bolts once you've got the intake and various intake pipe work off. That said, snapping bolts could be a PITA. I've done worse TBF though

You would also think that an exhaust gas test could show up positive even with egr cooler which mine did not. It could be either. Honestly though looking at videos online it looks like they're both pretty darn easy jobs so il probably have both off at same time. Tandem pump was last thing I did in engine bay took me maybe half an hour. If there's a clear day can't see why the oil cooler shouldn't also be a half our job, if anything it's easier to get to. EGR a bit longer but usually once I've started something il just be smashing it all day so. They'll both be off. I've never once even looked into the egr on this car so at the very least a clean would be good. There's no videos from what I can see of people changing just the oil cooler just the whole filter housing. It does look to me like it's possible to take just the bottom cooler section off without filter housing looking at the complete part online, we'll see about engine room when I'm doing it. Sometimes I like to make things hard on myself by taking "the easy route" haha!

I do get white smoke at start, but im talking just at start which to me is just normal. Its enough smoke to linger in the air and make you a bit dizzy if your walking past the back of the car but for all of 30 seconds after crank then nothing. Ive had smokier cars that have been like that for years. Nothing during driving at all even hard on it and to be fair if it wasnt so cold outside i bet it would barely be a puff. I agree oil cooler will be done first its easiest thing. To be honest if im taking oil cooler off I may aswell swap it rather than leak test it theyre listed at 30 quid online and then I know its just done. But I do think EGR is more likely as id expect to see oil in the coolant if the oil cooler was gone as its under pressure in that system but I am no expert I just have a few socket sets and a driveway!

Let's hope so, now the question for me. Is it safe to bypass the cooler for a week to check? Using connectors and just bridge the hose excluding the cooler. The leak is that slow id just not know otherwise. Alternatively if I was to remove to egr and egr cooler what blanking kits work? Seeing as most egr deleted obviously leave the cooler in place afaik. I need to get to the turbo anyway so I think for now I'm monitoring it, once outside temperature starts to see double digits il book some time off work and get the back auxiliaries all off, as I say, turbo needs a check over due to whistling, probably a recondition, egr system needs a good clean anyway, possibly binning! Oil cooler looks like an easy job right at the front of the engine nothing out the way, il have that knocked out soon id think but mine being the BSW I'm thinking egr as oil cooler design was revised on mine afaik, one of the latest 1.9 pd engines

Well the issue is still there Exhaust gas test came back ok. I've given it some huge motorway blasts and it just comes back but man. It's soooo slow, if I clean it off you'd think it was problem solved for a couple of days. It is not disappearing but you'd have thought head gasket gets worse in what more than 300 miles. What do yous think?? Other common faults... Anyone?

As the title says, devastated. Gone to check my oil before a long journey and just top it off, bam. Propper milky cap. Fuuuuuuuu#£& Well I had no choice about 150 miles from home I thought il clean it up and drive, at least gives me an idea of how bad the problem is. Photo 1 is moment of discovery Photo 2 is having cleaned it up then driven 150 miles To me luckily it doesn't look too bad, it's a bit of milk, clearly I caught it early enough Dipstick is normal looking oil, I don't appear to be losing coolant although I've not exactly been checking it as religiously as I do the oil, no white exhaust smoke other than the normal cold start stuff. Engine is on 115k miles. And temp throughout the long journey was completely normal. 1.9TDI engine code BSW, early 2007 model I'm clutching onto a tiny piece of hope here that itl be something else. I did do the tandem pump last year, after changing the gasket I determined the leak was in the pump itself or the gasket I brought was crap as it carried on leaking. Although obviously it is plausible to also just be a leaky head on the outside, I find that unlikely. I can recall coolant lines run through the tandem pump but I don't recall if oil does too. I'm wondering is it plausible it is mixing here Is there anything else I should check before getting one of those coolant checking kits? Also anyone know someone around Nottingham who's a dab hand with changing the head gaskets on these, my regular mechanic is out of action ATM. If the heads got to come apart I assume it's worth doing the glow plugs and possibly any power mods I want doing at the same time done, e.g bigger turbo, head bolts, injectors? Thanks guys, wish my wallet luck!

Aight. I've got VCDS and I've got my OEM airbag. So imna swap it. If it goes off I can probably reset it. Thanks for the help y'all

Hi guys, I feel stupid with this one but I had on good authority that almost all VAG steering wheels not only fit eachother but the airbags where a simple swap too. I had also been told that if the connector doesn't fit splicing it would be possible. I've ended up with a Facelift MK2 Octavia steering wheel trying to fit to early MK2 fabia. The airbag connector itself at the airbag side is the same fitment but the loom is different at the squib side. I'm not overly bothered as the wheel and airbag was only £40 but I'm curious is it possible to just splice? Or can I use my OEM loom as it physically fits im just concerned the pinouts would be different. See photos thanks. Original is top connector photo, replacement is bottom. Also attached photos of wheels themselves

Well never mind. Brown on mine was the 12v reverse signal. Despite being ground almost everywhere else in the car! I couldnt find a pinout, in the end I verified I could find a 12V constant power (red yellow), 12v reverse signal (brown) coming into the PDC and that I was getting 12V on the output side out of almost all pins other than maybe 2 or 3 which seemed normal. So problem exists on the sensor lines after the PDC as far as I can tell. Maybe all 4 are just dead at once! Or theres a break in the line somewhere. Il have the bumper off some other time its freezing!

No corrosion on my unit but measuring the input side to the PDC module is interesting. Some vague information online tells me the blue black stripe wire is likely reverse signal which I can see a blue black coming off the reverse light so seems to check out (assuming that's where the signal is coming from). Engine off ignition on, pos2 in reverse 0V, engine on 2V. My reverse light works. So I'm just tracing that wire back now. Measured outgoing from the reverse light at 12v. Although I can't find exactly where the splice is at the moment. My feelings are it's buried deep in that car I don't suppose anyone has a pin out. My pdc is PN: 5j0919283

Nice one mate thanks for that. The area you describe the connection to be is suspect cus the boot light there is also out so possible corrosion or something has gone on there. Il have to take that boot trim off then. I get the solid tone whenever I go into reverse and clearing the codes they re appear once ive been into reverse so I deffo know the sensor's connections are kaput but until I fix that I've got no way to know if any sensors are kaput. If I get to swapping any sensors il make sure not to glue them until ive verified its the correct side. This connection then is suspect number 1. Its just a question of if any of the sensors are broken once I fix that. Hopefully VCDS will show me

Hi everyone, Earlier this year I purchased a 5J (2007 so awkward crossover year) fabia, making it the fourth Skoda outside the house. I think we've got a problem! She's a beauty all blacked out and elegance spec 1.9TDI so best engine and all the bells and whistles for its time. But have sorted out quite a few bits on it to get it where it is. Im now onto the fairly minor niggles. Parking sensors being my next adventure. Its the only diag codes I have for the car now (other than aftermarket radio) and I would like to have them working. When I run a scan in VCDS it comes back as all sensors mechanical failure. Which says to me its unlikely a sensor issue and likely an issue with ground or supplied 12v power. Unless they are wired in such a way that one sensor dying brings them all offline, but I find that unlikely otherwise whats the point in having separate diag codes for each! Obviously the first thing I've done is check all the fuses relating to parking sensors. No luck there. I'm just here to ask before I spend ages poking around with a multi meter, are there any common faults with these sensors I should check first? Does anyone know where the sensors ground to and where the wires run for them? I'm thinking tomorrow morning I will be pulling most of the boot trim out and having a hunt for their incoming 12v and ground as I can see them entering the car towards the center of the bumper assuming into the boot. Any info helpful. Many thanks :) Heres my VCDS export: