Rsedmonds

Thank you for looking. I ran into the same issue when I looked but found schematics very sketchy on lllparts and didn’t feel an overwhelming sense of have the correct pipe. It surprising how the simplest of parts could become the rocking horse **** everyone’s looking for. Hopefully I can drop on a 1.6 that’s being broken and the pipes not cut.

I’ve had the pipes off and the flow through the matrix is good. I have put a piece of copper pipe in my problem pipe to extend it and take the tension out of it. I’ve pressure tested the system this morning and it’s hold good pressure. Later I’m going to vacuum fill the system and put a coolant system flush in it and leave that over night, then flush and fill it tomorrow.

Little update. New radiator arrived today and has now been fitted, but looking at the old one removed I couldn’t see any really issues other than it was showing its age. I’ve taken it for a run as much as I legally can and to be honest there isn’t any significant change. The needle does sit slightly lower but I have to bear in mind the front bumper or grill was not on the car. The picture attached shows the temp when I pulled up and by the time I got the camera on my phone open the temp had already started to fall. Does anybody know the dimensions of the heater matrix pipes as I’m thinking of splicing a piece of pipe in to release the tension on the one that stretched? Also can the heater matrix be removed without removing the heater box? Regards Rob

I know there’s always options and I’m not trying to keep the truck super original but the pipes I’m looking for are highly formed. It comes out of the airbox at 90 degrees travels about 20mm then turns another 90 degrees and so on. I wouldn’t be able to get that type of shaping from a straight pipe, if that makes sense. I’m amazed that I can’t find any pipes new or old anywhere. My thoughts are to cut and put a piece of copper pipe in there as a last measure.

Hi, I’m looking for a pair of heater matrix to thermostat housing coolant pipes for a 1.6 AEE engine. As mine are not the correct ones for the car and are stretched across the airbox. I would also be keen on the 2 radiator pipes and header tank pipe as well if their available also? Does anyone have a secondhand pair/set for sale or can point me in the direction of a new set please? Regards Rob

There’s 3 that all sit together on the back of a 1.6 thermostat housing and he put them on wrong. When I bought the truck he even said that the heater was crap and didn’t work. If memory serves me correctly this is how he had them arranged.

@TrentBarton Hi mate, how are you getting on with your erratic tick over? My car isn’t on the road as yet but I have been able to give it a sneaky run and it seems OK. I’m not closing the case yet as I do t feel I’ve proven it out thoroughly yet but the signs are good. I do now have another issue where Its running a little hot that I’m focusing on first so watch this space.

aahhh, I didn’t realise there were 3 different sized radiators. On your figures I do have the correct radiator fitted for a 1.6. Looking at the radiator it’s not in the best of conditions so a change won’t hurt. Regarding the coolant pump it was all changed while doing the rebuild as a matter of course rather than a necessity I also changed the water pump, thermostat housing, thermo stat and temp sensor. The coolant hoses were also connected wrongly to the thermostat housing but after asking on this site the correct configuration was found. I still need to find thermostat housing to the heater matrix hoses as the ones fitted aren’t correct and thought they have flow are tight against the air box. The air guide is there. @D.FYLAKTOS The sensor fitted does have a yellow ring but as previously stated if at tick over the needle sits perfectly on 90degree. Do you know the difference between blue and yellow. @Papez Does anyone have any idea where I can get the heater matrix coolant hoses. I did originally post asking but didn’t get any response?

Hi, the fan is turning in the correct direction. The measurements I took are not correct, the width of the radiator is only 285mm so when the previous owner did his engine swap he failed to fit the wider 322mm radiator from the donor vehicle. This suggests that it’s been running hot since the swap which could also explain why the head gasket was blown when I bought the car. I’ve ordered the correct size rad and as the radiator cowl won’t fit from the smaller radiator I’ve ordered a 12” eBay cheapo radiator until I can find the correct cowling.

Hi guys, I’m close to get another Felicia pick up, up and running but as it gets closer to being back on the roads I’m seeing issues I’ve not seen before. Giving the car a shack down I’ve notice that the temp gauge sits at around 100degrees when driving as pictured. When the car is parked up the temp sits at 90, rising to around the 100 degree mark and the fan kicks in and pushes the temp back down quickly as expected. The Felicia is a bit of a mongrel in that it started life as a 1.3 but now has a 1.6 in so I’m expecting issues like this. What do people think the reason for the temp sitting so high could be? My rad measure roughly 60x40x4 (is this the correct size?). The thermostat housing was replaced and came with a thermostat installed. Thanks in advance Rob

Thank for the toque setting they came in handy. I’ve removed the throttle body this morning and gave it a good cleaning on the outside firstly with a degreaser, secondly with brake cleaner moving the brake cleaner to the inside of the throttle body and finishing off with carb cleaner. Considering it looked clean my rags were filthy. I also noticed that where the flap meets the body there was quite a bit of pitting ( obviously from its life on the farm). There is also what I assume to be an air temp sensor on the side that I removed and cleaned while I was in there. I’ve now had the car sat on my drive for over 40 minutes now ticking over (haven’t tried any throttle yet) and it’s started up at 1200rpm and dropped to around 900-950 where it’s sat now. It’s completed about 6 heat cycles in that time and the cab is lovely and toast. I’m Not saying it’s sorted yet as it’s early day but it’s running far better than it ever was. I also checked my fuel filter and it doesn’t look like it’s ever been changed so that’s next on my list.

not 100% sure as I’ve been looking for the article I read originally and can’t find it. I did find the like below which take you through the reset process in VCDS thoughts 🤷🏼‍♂️ http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_%28TBA%29

The O ring is available for £10.50 with P+P on LLLparts and measures 52x2. You can get an equivalent from eBay for around £4.

Thanks for that. I have the two ends that i assumed go into control unit but no control unit. so connecting them up is out of the question.

I'm sure I've read that somewhere and when i get time ill try to find what i read out. I suppose that disconnecting the battery makes sense and could have possible cleared my initial issue in the ECU making me think that it had gone away. Then having a bad (assumed) throttle body the issue soon came back. I think that i might remove the throttle body next to clean it and see where that leads?

Hi guys, Quick question - where does the immobiliser ring around the ignition connect to? And do you think that if connected I would be able to read the ECU? Regards Rob

Im sorry to say that today the car was back to its old hunting self. @TrentBarton i looked at replacement throttle body’s also but I was thinking of going down the route of a secondhand unit, my thinking being that it would be better quality. The thing that’s holding me back from doing it is if the ECU does need to be reset I won’t be able to.

On other cars I’ve owned when you push the key into the ignition barrel power would go to the radio. With the Skoda I don’t have that, I need to turn the ignition on to get power to the radio. Is that how Skodas are wired up?

Looking under the dash at the ignition switch there’s a 3 (I think) pin brown plug that’s not connected to anything which I assume is part of the immobiler.

Hi guys, Just an update, I did some more testing over the weekend with the engine running and got some other/different readings. At first the throttle body was doing the same thing of running fast and fluctuating. But while doing the testing I had a big discovery, the engine lifting eye that has 2 earths connected to fell off. Once refitted the fluctuation seemed to settle down and only really happened after that when the cooling fan kicked in. I also noticed that there was tension in the throttle cable that didn’t seem quite right, it was tighter than I would like and had no slack in it. So with the slack removed the revs dropped to 800rpm and everything seemed to run smoothly. Early days yet but fingers crossed 🤞

Hi guys, Is this one of the standard head unit connection and if so should there be a second? Has anyone got pictures of them both or point me to the correct ISO adapter please? It’s also tucked down in the left hand corner of the head unit housing. Is this where it should be? as there’s no more length on it to either pull it either down further or higher in the head unit housing. Regards Rob

I remember him saying something about the coil/ring around the ignition failing and its purpose being deactivated in the ECU. He gave it a name saying something like “I’ve had ***** added to the ECU. As you say most likely to do with the immobiliser as I have 3 keys one for each door and one for the ignition, all different. But as they say if it ain’t broke don’t try to fix it.

That’s not a bad video to be fair. I like the idea of removing the vacuum pipe then capping it off to see what happens. I attached my laptop with Delphi on and it couldn’t talk to the ECU. The previous owner had something either deleted or added to the ECU due to an ignition key/barrel issue but I don’t know anymore. I do have a computer in the garage that has vagcom on but that hasn’t been used in around 8yrs.

when you say redundant are you saying the video doesn’t relate to the Skodas TPS? I got the readings with the ignition on but the engine not running. I’m happy to get the closed readings with the engine on but for obvious reasons I can’t get the open ones. I’ll get them later and post.

That took some doing.