Rsedmonds

Hi all, just a quick update. So after taking the two solenoids out that didn’t need removing I removed the whole pump but I still could only see the two solenoids. I then saw a picture of another Lucas pump and there was a cut off solenoid at the end like other pumps but on my pump I couldn’t see it until I took of the mounting bracket and there it was. Cutting a long story short I had power going to a module on the base of the pump but no ignition power coming out. I removed the solenoid leads from that module and put them to the ignition power to the module, earthed the other end and BOOM I now have a working injector pump and after bleeding the pump I now have the pick up running 💥🎉 Thanks for your help guys without your advice I would still probably be chasing this one. Rob

Right, that wasn’t it. Nothing changed after removing the valve picture previously so the pump is now off. Even with the pump removed I could only see the two valves, one either side and the same as previously removed. So I did battle to remove the bracket and there it was hidden under the bracket that had no access or gap to see through. So the cut off valve was not functioning so I’ve removed it and hit that with 12v and again it free up and started to work. My intentions are to remove the final valve on the side that also isn’t clicking give that a wiggle and that them all removed and hopefully all functioning correctly. Then I’ll cut a hole in the top of the bracket so I have access to the cut off valve without having to remove the whole pump. My questions of the day today are, as I rotate the pump it rattles, is this normal? And how do I time a Lucas 028 130 081c pump? There’s a plate on the back of the pump as pictured, do I remove this? There’s no access in the centre it’s solid metal. Regards Rob IMG_6243.mov

Evening all, So I had a play this evening until my battery went flat. I put 12v to what I believed to be the stop valve as pictured previously and nothing happened. So I removed the fuel lines followed by the solenoid and what I removed is pictured below. On the bench I again put 12v to it and initially it didn’t want to move but after a couple of flicks of the battery + it was clicking away happily. I then put it back into the pump and wired it in but when I turned the key again nothing happened (no clicking). I checked what voltage it was receiving from the ignition and it’s only 7.3v but by taking a feed direct from the battery it would click. Finally I tried to bleed the pump but nothing came out of the fuel pipes whatsoever. Is what I removed the fuel cut off solenoid or something else? What’s. Does the VW pick up have a immobiliser like the Felicia? Regards Rob

Hi, Can’t say if there’s fuel in the filter but there’s residue around the top. Does the filter need priming? I’ve been searching the net and think I’ve found the fuel cut off and what I think it is is picture below. If that is it there was not “click” when ignition turned on and off. If that is it any idea where I can get a replacement?

Hi, I’ve had my first attempt to look at the issue and to be honest, I didn’t get far. First of all I found that the diesel gauge isn’t working so I put 12l in. I then cranked it and was getting no fuel out or either the bleed nipple at the front or the injectors. My plan tomorrow is to disconnect the fuel feed pipe from the filter and try to prime the pump from there. I looked and place my finger on everything that had a wire going to it but I neither heard nor felt anything clicking. So, today’s questions are: 1, is there a lift pump in the tank or should the fuel pump draw the fuel up? 2, where is and what does the stop valve look like? I’ve google it and noting that’s coming up on my search looks like anything I have 🤷🏼‍♂️

Hi, Yes I did, it the 1.9d and the pump on it is the Lucas 028 130 081c.

Interesting about the conversion to a different pump, I’m defo going to look into that. Thanks

Steve that is brilliant, thank you. I’ve not played with diesel much but these few things you’ve pointed out will keep me busy for a while. My only question is where/what is the stop valve is?

I agree at this moment in time it’s “how long is a piece of string” it’s getting delivered anytime now so will know more shortly. Looking on eBay the cheapest is £156. I’ve spoken to 2 firms that do reconditioning and their combined prices range from £300 all the way up to the dizzy heights of £1500. It’s a 1998 VW pick-up 1.9 but I can’t find any info on that anywhere but know there’s a big following for the Felicia pickup hence why I’m here. Thanks for the advice reference the smaller inline filter, it’s the first thing I’ll check.

Hi guys, I’m after some help & advice. I’m looking at buying a none running 1.9 diesel. The car was previously running but ran out of diesel one day but ever since has been unable to start. The guy has taken it to a local mechanic who has diagnosed a faulty injector fuel pump. So the guy has it up for sale. My question is what’s the best way to approach this, should I replace with a secondhand unit or recondition the current unit and what would the cost be? What guides are there out there to fault diagnose the issue? Any advice would be appreciated Rob

I’ve used 3x compression testers and they all read the same give or take 0.5 bar. The head was skimmed but I’m not sure how much was removed but the skim limit was still visible. Unfortunately I didn’t take a picture of it after it was skimmed. Yes the radiator hoses were soft and pressure in the header tank was low. I’ve replaced the hoses with same bore pipes that were fitted 32mm & 19mm.

Hi, This a picture of how i have the thermostat housing piped up on my 1.6 AEE engine. What I will say that I've forgotten to add previously is the car is OK around the streets on the estate as there's a lot of stop start at junctions. but as soon as I get on a long road the temp will gradually build up and within 5 minutes will sit at the 100 degree mark as previously pictured.

Also I have compression of 16 bar across all cylinders. I’m being told by mechanics that in general that’s fine. but I’m being given figures quoted as official of a maximum pressure 15 bar.

I’ve done a sniff test on the header tank (the blue stuff in a tube) on numerous occasions Saturday gone and all have been negative. Fan switches on when expected, the heater gets up to temp and it has new coolant pipe all round which has increased the pressure in the system helping reduce the temp slightly. I’ll take a picture of the hoses layout tomorrow and post.

I’m starting to think about just ripping the engine out and replacing it with another. What are the popular options for a swap?

It’s not an issue, I don’t know the engines either so what you said made me think and if it provoked that reaction then we’re half way there. I’m very much cut from the same cloth when it come to memory retention so I believe you should say what you think (before it’s forgotten) because though 50% of what I say is wrong the other 50% is right and may just be the answer needed.

I thought the 1.6 valves were hydraulic and non adjustable?

I’m testing the same way using the same test equipment. I’ve borrowed 2 compression testers from guys at work so I can test and compare them to mine. As compression was good, other than the sonic clean of the pistons I did nothing else and all the rings are the original ones that came with the engine. when the engine was apart the only thing change was the head gasket. Oil wise I can’t say what was in there but I’ve replaced it with the correct grade for the UK. I’ve also got my hands on 2 leak down testers so along with the compression test I’ll also conduct a leak down testers this weekend.

Right, I've had to take some time away from this as I’m close to rolling it off a cliff 🤬. Changed the pipes and though it’s slightly improved thing it’s not change the overall issue of it over heating. After running the truck for over 20 minutes I can see moisture on top of the pistons and I’m not sure whether it’s oil, water or just condensation. What I do know and is the reason for my post is that I have (and always did have) compression across all 4 cylinder of 16 bar. So my question is, Is 16 bar within range and an acceptable pressure or am I way to high and could this be a possible root cause of my overheating?

@Papez theres an issue definitely but where I don’t know. When I got the car it had a blown head gasket so it’s had an issue since day one (for me anyway). Obviously the HG has been changed and as part of the rebuild it’s had a new water pump as part of the cam belt change, the pipe from the pump to thermostat housing changed as the end was broken, and the thermostat housing has been changed as the threads were stripped. So with all those things changed it’s still overheating. I went to change to the diesel rad but backed out due to fitment issues but exchanged that for the correct size for the 1.6. Now clutching at straws and the only things not changed are the hoses and the heater matrix. I’ve removed the heater matrix and with the help of others determined that it’s holding the correct amount of fluid and so has been refitted. I have noticed that the hoses to the heater matrix are incorrect and stretched around the airbox. Also the thermostat to lower radiator pipe is super soft and semi collapsed (but this has only show it’s self since I’ve started using a vacuum fill) so a 2 meters of 32mm pipe and 3m of 19mm pipe have been ordered and will get fitted this weekend. I have tested the radiator cap pumping in just under 2 bar into the header tank and it released that pressure. When it’s all back together and if it overheats still the issue has got to lie elsewhere but where or what I’m lost.

@D.FYLAKTOS i have neither the pipe or the bolt in the engine block, I believe they both belong to the 1.3 not the AEE 1.6 engine.

Hi guys me again, As I try to find out why my engine continues to over heat I’ve read on several posts about a drain plug in the engine block for coolant. I was wandering if the AEE engine has such a thing? I know theres a lot of talk round only needing to remove the bottom radiator hose but that’s been done on multiple occasions and the issue still remains. So my thoughts were while I have it apart (again) if there was such a thing I could remove it to run a flush through it.

I’m not seeing it, what engine is yours on mine is the 1.6 AEE engine?

@Papez hi, yes is the short answer. When I put the coolant system flush in I removed the thermostat and ran it up to (and passed temp) I then flushed it twice and both times it went higher than 90 degrees.

Hi, I’m have trouble getting my engine to run at temp and thought I’d tried everything until I read this in your thread. Could I ask where the engine block coolant drain plug is please? Rob