Rsedmonds

Hi guys, Quick question - where does the immobiliser ring around the ignition connect to? And do you think that if connected I would be able to read the ECU? Regards Rob

Im sorry to say that today the car was back to its old hunting self. @TrentBarton i looked at replacement throttle body’s also but I was thinking of going down the route of a secondhand unit, my thinking being that it would be better quality. The thing that’s holding me back from doing it is if the ECU does need to be reset I won’t be able to.

On other cars I’ve owned when you push the key into the ignition barrel power would go to the radio. With the Skoda I don’t have that, I need to turn the ignition on to get power to the radio. Is that how Skodas are wired up?

Looking under the dash at the ignition switch there’s a 3 (I think) pin brown plug that’s not connected to anything which I assume is part of the immobiler.

Hi guys, Just an update, I did some more testing over the weekend with the engine running and got some other/different readings. At first the throttle body was doing the same thing of running fast and fluctuating. But while doing the testing I had a big discovery, the engine lifting eye that has 2 earths connected to fell off. Once refitted the fluctuation seemed to settle down and only really happened after that when the cooling fan kicked in. I also noticed that there was tension in the throttle cable that didn’t seem quite right, it was tighter than I would like and had no slack in it. So with the slack removed the revs dropped to 800rpm and everything seemed to run smoothly. Early days yet but fingers crossed 🤞

Hi guys, Is this one of the standard head unit connection and if so should there be a second? Has anyone got pictures of them both or point me to the correct ISO adapter please? It’s also tucked down in the left hand corner of the head unit housing. Is this where it should be? as there’s no more length on it to either pull it either down further or higher in the head unit housing. Regards Rob

I remember him saying something about the coil/ring around the ignition failing and its purpose being deactivated in the ECU. He gave it a name saying something like “I’ve had ***** added to the ECU. As you say most likely to do with the immobiliser as I have 3 keys one for each door and one for the ignition, all different. But as they say if it ain’t broke don’t try to fix it.

That’s not a bad video to be fair. I like the idea of removing the vacuum pipe then capping it off to see what happens. I attached my laptop with Delphi on and it couldn’t talk to the ECU. The previous owner had something either deleted or added to the ECU due to an ignition key/barrel issue but I don’t know anymore. I do have a computer in the garage that has vagcom on but that hasn’t been used in around 8yrs.

when you say redundant are you saying the video doesn’t relate to the Skodas TPS? I got the readings with the ignition on but the engine not running. I’m happy to get the closed readings with the engine on but for obvious reasons I can’t get the open ones. I’ll get them later and post.

That took some doing.

I agree, hopefully someone more knowledgeable will come along soon and give us both the answers we need. I did most my research on YouTube and there’s a lot on there but most people are only talking about an 3 pin connector and nothing like the 7 pins we have. I then came across a guy called ECU TESTING and he cover a bad throttle position sensor and explains the idle and absolute potentiometer position. Now it’s early days as I haven’t found anything else yet but going by what he’s saying I should have a fluctuating reading and not static on the idle.

What I've seen but not confirmed and was hoping someone on here could. Is that the absolute and idle should read opposite to each other so that when the throttle is open the absolute reads 0.92v the idle should be around 4v. And when the throttle is closed the absolute reads around 4v and the idle somewhere in the region of 0.9v.

Right, Expanding on my previous post and hoping @TrentBarton doesn't mind me highjacking his thread, I’ve done a few measurements and was wandering what other thoughts are of my findings. I’ve put a multimeter across the pins that were mentioned by @Papez and these are the readings I got when opening and closing the throttle body.. Actuator pin 1, open 6.52v closed 7.27v Actuator pin 2, open 5.21v closed 4.54v Voltage pin 4, ignition on 5.14v & off 0.0v Ground pin 7, ignition on 0.12v & off 0.0v Absolute pin 5, open 0.92v closed 3.98v Idle position pin 8, open 2.48v closed 2.48v Is the idle potentiometer bad? Regards Rob

Hi, I have a similar issue where the engine starts at around 1.5k revs and stays there. Once the engine gets warm it can (but not always) start to hunt. I was wandering if you found anymore instructions on how to do a pin test for the throttle body and where you’ve got to with your own issue? Regards Rob

That looks a serious piece of kit, probably doubling the value of my truck if I was to fit it. But never say never, let’s get the pipes fitted correctly and see how the truck reacts to that first.

I’ve just replaced the cylinder head gasket so I’m probably just a little bit more wary of the car overheating. What happens is I’ll start the car up and leave it ticking over on the drive 🥶. But within 10 minutes it hitting about 100 degrees, the fan kicks in and so does panic. The fan does its job and brings it back down but I’ll shut it off when the fan switches off for fear of damaging the head gasket. My thoughts are that there’s an airlock somewhere as the pipes to the radiator are hot to the touch but the ones going to the heater matrix are still stone cold.

Thanks for the layout picture, they explain it perfectly. I paint marked the pipes when I removed them and put them back how they were removed but this could explain why the car previously overheated and the owner said the heater was useless. Looking at the picture above the smaller outlet goes to the header tank when I have it going to the bottom heater matrix pipe. I do however have to confess, I marked my picture wrong for the radiator and it is connected as you suggest.

That’s great thanks 🙏🏻

Hi guys, I’m having trouble getting the air out of my coolant system and was hoping someone can confirm that the coolant pipe layout pictured below is correct. Also is there a process I need to follow or best practice to bleed the air out of a 1.6 AEE coolant system? Regards Rob

Hi, I was asking for future information more than anything and the gearbox will be my next port of call after getting the engine up and running. My main aim was to ask whether it was repairable or if I needed to source a replacement. In general the gearbox works fine (I think) and selects gears easily at the moment though the gear lever does have an obvious amount of play. The clutch pedal is close to the floor but again these are both battles for another day.

I’m a bit suspicious of the coolant pipe layout from the thermostat housing on the AEE engine. Which outlet is to the top heater matrix and which outlet goes to the top radiator connection. Does anyone have a layout of where each outlet should be connected? It’s probably just my paranoia but I’m questioning everything at the moment. Regards Rob

I haven’t seen or used VCDS for the best part of 15yrs, when my son got his first golf but I’ll still have it somewhere. I’ll give the BTB test a go, I have it in the garage and it should (🤞) hopefully give me some reassurance. It’s also reassuring that the heater matrix takes time, never owning one before or ever seeing this car on the road I have no idea how it reacts. So I’ll continue trying to get the air out a little longer. Thank you for the kind words reference the water. My thoughts were that it was leaving the coolant system and being pump by the engine down and out of the exhaust. I haven’t tried timing the car other than a rotating the distributor to stop the engine from hunting so I’ll look at getting that better aligned. The head was pressure tested when I had it skimmed. Regards

Hi, I don’t think all’s gone according to plan which has left me scratching my head. I can’t get any heat to the heater matrix no matter what I try. What I do know is:- The engine still overheats after 5 minutes of running (well the fan kicks in) There’s not much if any pressure in the system when hot (new water pump fitted). The radiator pipes get hot hot but there’s no heat in the heater matrix pipes even after trying to back filling. I’ve run water in/out of the matrix an all seems fine. I’ve only filled the system with water just to test for leaks more than anything else. There seems to be a lot of water dripping from the exhaust with only a little white smoke/steam. I’ve not measured water loss as I’ve been taking pipes off and on. Overall the engine runs well, at least I think so 😞

LOL, That’s the one I’m trying to bring back to life…