Rsedmonds

I agree, hopefully someone more knowledgeable will come along soon and give us both the answers we need. I did most my research on YouTube and there’s a lot on there but most people are only talking about an 3 pin connector and nothing like the 7 pins we have. I then came across a guy called ECU TESTING and he cover a bad throttle position sensor and explains the idle and absolute potentiometer position. Now it’s early days as I haven’t found anything else yet but going by what he’s saying I should have a fluctuating reading and not static on the idle.

What I've seen but not confirmed and was hoping someone on here could. Is that the absolute and idle should read opposite to each other so that when the throttle is open the absolute reads 0.92v the idle should be around 4v. And when the throttle is closed the absolute reads around 4v and the idle somewhere in the region of 0.9v.

Right, Expanding on my previous post and hoping @TrentBarton doesn't mind me highjacking his thread, I’ve done a few measurements and was wandering what other thoughts are of my findings. I’ve put a multimeter across the pins that were mentioned by @Papez and these are the readings I got when opening and closing the throttle body.. Actuator pin 1, open 6.52v closed 7.27v Actuator pin 2, open 5.21v closed 4.54v Voltage pin 4, ignition on 5.14v & off 0.0v Ground pin 7, ignition on 0.12v & off 0.0v Absolute pin 5, open 0.92v closed 3.98v Idle position pin 8, open 2.48v closed 2.48v Is the idle potentiometer bad? Regards Rob

Hi, I have a similar issue where the engine starts at around 1.5k revs and stays there. Once the engine gets warm it can (but not always) start to hunt. I was wandering if you found anymore instructions on how to do a pin test for the throttle body and where you’ve got to with your own issue? Regards Rob

That looks a serious piece of kit, probably doubling the value of my truck if I was to fit it. But never say never, let’s get the pipes fitted correctly and see how the truck reacts to that first.

I’ve just replaced the cylinder head gasket so I’m probably just a little bit more wary of the car overheating. What happens is I’ll start the car up and leave it ticking over on the drive 🥶. But within 10 minutes it hitting about 100 degrees, the fan kicks in and so does panic. The fan does its job and brings it back down but I’ll shut it off when the fan switches off for fear of damaging the head gasket. My thoughts are that there’s an airlock somewhere as the pipes to the radiator are hot to the touch but the ones going to the heater matrix are still stone cold.

Thanks for the layout picture, they explain it perfectly. I paint marked the pipes when I removed them and put them back how they were removed but this could explain why the car previously overheated and the owner said the heater was useless. Looking at the picture above the smaller outlet goes to the header tank when I have it going to the bottom heater matrix pipe. I do however have to confess, I marked my picture wrong for the radiator and it is connected as you suggest.

That’s great thanks 🙏🏻

Hi guys, I’m having trouble getting the air out of my coolant system and was hoping someone can confirm that the coolant pipe layout pictured below is correct. Also is there a process I need to follow or best practice to bleed the air out of a 1.6 AEE coolant system? Regards Rob

Hi, I was asking for future information more than anything and the gearbox will be my next port of call after getting the engine up and running. My main aim was to ask whether it was repairable or if I needed to source a replacement. In general the gearbox works fine (I think) and selects gears easily at the moment though the gear lever does have an obvious amount of play. The clutch pedal is close to the floor but again these are both battles for another day.

I’m a bit suspicious of the coolant pipe layout from the thermostat housing on the AEE engine. Which outlet is to the top heater matrix and which outlet goes to the top radiator connection. Does anyone have a layout of where each outlet should be connected? It’s probably just my paranoia but I’m questioning everything at the moment. Regards Rob

I haven’t seen or used VCDS for the best part of 15yrs, when my son got his first golf but I’ll still have it somewhere. I’ll give the BTB test a go, I have it in the garage and it should (🤞) hopefully give me some reassurance. It’s also reassuring that the heater matrix takes time, never owning one before or ever seeing this car on the road I have no idea how it reacts. So I’ll continue trying to get the air out a little longer. Thank you for the kind words reference the water. My thoughts were that it was leaving the coolant system and being pump by the engine down and out of the exhaust. I haven’t tried timing the car other than a rotating the distributor to stop the engine from hunting so I’ll look at getting that better aligned. The head was pressure tested when I had it skimmed. Regards

Hi, I don’t think all’s gone according to plan which has left me scratching my head. I can’t get any heat to the heater matrix no matter what I try. What I do know is:- The engine still overheats after 5 minutes of running (well the fan kicks in) There’s not much if any pressure in the system when hot (new water pump fitted). The radiator pipes get hot hot but there’s no heat in the heater matrix pipes even after trying to back filling. I’ve run water in/out of the matrix an all seems fine. I’ve only filled the system with water just to test for leaks more than anything else. There seems to be a lot of water dripping from the exhaust with only a little white smoke/steam. I’ve not measured water loss as I’ve been taking pipes off and on. Overall the engine runs well, at least I think so 😞

LOL, That’s the one I’m trying to bring back to life…

For the purpose of getting it tested I’ve used blue sealant to hold the water in but long term I’ve ordered a replacement plastic housing.

Hi guys, As the title suggests I have a sloppy gearbox linkage as shown in the video below. The nut and bolt seems to be both the cure for a previous issue but also the cause of this one as it’s warn away the hole in the shaft from the gearbox making it sloppy. The seal to the gearbox for that linkage is also in need of being replaced and I’ll also in need of a clutch soon. Is this repairable (as the gearbox works fine otherwise) and if so how or should I just find a replacement box? Regards Rob IMG_5569.mov

Hi guys it been awhile, I received the replacement con rod just before Christmas and proceed to fit it Christmas Eve while I was off and nobody else was around 🤷🏼‍♂️. I then as what is becoming the norm got ill for Xmas day but over the last couple of days I’ve managed to get into the garage again. So over the last 2 days I’ve managed to get it all back together with only 2 issues, the thermostat housing has a stripped thread and the distributor has a rounded off fixing. This evening I started the car for the first time and it started sweeeet. There are a few issues to address but overall I’m well pleased! HAPPY NEW YEAR 🥳

There is but when it comes to other manufacturers I’m not sure whether the engine codes carry over or if they have their own (but would think they would). I have looked and it’s a bit of a mind field to navigate if I’m honest.

I’ve had a go at straightening the con rod a feel like I was getting somewhere but though I got it straight(ish) from the front from the side it still had a buckle. I’ve found a 036198401G for sale at £40 which I’m going to buy for the piece of mind it gives.

I was hoping to find one locally for around the £30-40 mark but am i living in the 00's? €100 is 1/3 of what i paid for the van and as I'm working to a budget i think ill have a go at straightening it first, because like you say "I've nothing to lose" but thanks for the offer.

I can see it’s bent and putting it in a vice does sound appealing but how straight do I need to get it? Is close good enough or does it need to be perfect? Can I apply heat to help it along its way?

Hi guys, I’m rebuilding my 1.6 pick up with a 1.6 EEA engine and while doing the strip I’ve noticed that I have a slightly bend con rod. Does anyone have a con rod with the marking 032D for sale? Regards Rob

BIG TROUBLE OR IS IT? I’ve cleaned the last two pistons tonight and notice an issue with number 3. This probably explains why when I did the compression test it was the lowest. Do I do what I would think is unscrupulous or replace the (what looks to me) bent con rod?