Trickiejohn

It’s great that your consumption figures are so good. However, how are you actually measuring the fuel used? Filling to “first click”, may be more accurate than the supplied data, however it’s not “accurate”. I can’t imagine a manufacture would knowingly underscore their mpg figures by over 10%, any more that they would over score the figures in any way. I could believe that they underscored buy 2/3 %. They do have a legal obligation to tell the truth (diesel and immersions scandals are hopefully a thing of the past) 🤞🤦‍♂️. Of course, if your driving economically is warm weather on decent roads with minimal traffic. The figures will be great. Friday evening, I returned home from Shepton Mallet via the A39/37 21 miles. Normal consumption 53-58mpg, depending on traffic temperature and time of day. The car recorded 52.4mpg on the way (hotter temps but the end of the busy period), and 62.1 on the return. There are hills, villages with 20 mph limits, traffic lights, and it’s a bus route. Not what you’d use to prove your consumption figures. My point is your figures are great 🤩, but possibly only as accurate as the cars data. As were mine 🤦‍♂️

Exactly, you need a proper diagnosis. It may be simple, but I doubt it, the car will auto reg en during a 2 hour drive without the higher revs. If the car ticks over at the normal 800ish rpm you may be lucky. If it’s still at 1k rpm. I personally would get a known DPF Competent shot to diagnose the issue. Most garages either don’t have the required equipment to correctly diagnose the issue. Don’t take the “delete dpf” offer as if the garage is one of the majority it won’t help in the long term. Someone like Baz is what you need

My friendly AI, offered this information on non OEM pads. No Zimmerman of course, however a few decent alternatives in there 🤞 Yes, there are excellent non-OEM alternatives for your Skoda brake pads (part 3WA 698 451). Many premium aftermarket brands manufacture pads that are equivalent to or even outperform the OEM parts. Top-Tier Aftermarket Brands · BOSCH: Reference 0986460074. · BREMBO: References P85182, P85184, or P85184N. · PAGID: References T2903 or T2903N. · ATE: References 13046073552 or 13047073552 (Ceramic option available). · FERODO: Reference FDB5357. Other Reputable Brands · TRW: GDB2373 · TEXTAR: 2616901, 2620601 · MINTEX: MDB3469 · DELPHI: LP3663 or LP3669 · VALEO: 302784, 610521, or 672001 💡 Recommendation: If you're focused on minimizing brake dust and keeping your wheels clean, ATE Ceramic pads come highly recommended by Skoda owners. However, note that some owners have observed that these ceramics can be more aggressive on brake discs over time. For a balanced performance, Brembo, Pagid, and Bosch are consistently praised as reliable upgrades over standard OEM fitment. When purchasing, double-check that the pads match your front or rear axle and match your specific disc size (e.g., 312mm, 340mm). If you share your Skoda model and engine, I can check for potential fitment differences.

That was the same in my previous VAG motors, both A3 and Passat. However it’s a simple job, I change mine when I renew the road fund licence.

Mine is a June 2025 build date. It does have all the latest EU mandated safety features a UK requirement as well. I switch off lane assist on most journeys over 5 miles. This stops the car letting you know you’re changing lanes without indicating. In real life it just means that if you move out a bit to pass a parked car and cross a white line there is no feedback from the car. The motorway issues can be reduced but not normally removed. If you use cruise control, shorten the distance setting between you and the car in front gives you less time to react, but critically also reduces these occurrences where your not in danger and are moving to a safer possible overtaking position. The cruise control will also follow between the white lines. It will, let you know if it thinks you are not: Looking alert through the windscreen Firmly holding the steering wheel and adding inputs (turning the wheel to keep in the middle of your lane. If it thinks you’ve been taken ill OEM unconscious, it will make a noise in the car, then brake, apply the hazard lights and pull in and stop.

Regen every 100 miles isn’t normal, unless your trips are all short. Do you do longer journeys say an hour on the motorway? If not try this first. DTC clear isn’t helpful as it can hide/delete some of the required info. I’d recommend visiting a garage where they fully understand the DPF and all its related system and faults. Most garages definitely don’t. Baz Merideth and O’rileys autos are 2 YouTube channels worth looking at. One of these may be local to you

Cam belt wear depends a lot on the vehicle usage and quality of the fitted product. My view is that changing early is a form of insurance. The cost of a catastrophic failure far exceeds the cost of an extra cam belt change. If you change your cam belt every 50k that’s 1 extra over 140k miles. How many keep their car that long for so many miles?

Whilst I agree with your comment on what’s officially advised. I would NEVER leave my cam belt that long, be it a belt or chain 😱

No problem with Spotify premium, it continues where I leave off and runs/plays flawlessly. I dropp Apple Music a few years ago

That’s strange, I use Spotify premium (courtesy of my eldest) and it plays random as it should . I stopped using Apple Music a few years ago.

My mk 4 2.0 TDI 150 bhp, at just 5k is now averaging 53.9mpg The 190 bhp would give a bit less.

I see the same problems around East Bristol. Road works related speed reductions don’t take more than couple of days to show on my 2025 Superb. They can take a couple of months to revert to standard after the works are complete. I haven’t yet seen the issue with truck speed limits (where different) showing on my screen. I do however see some unrestricted country roads showing a 30 limit. I’m happy with that, the lunatics who fly round single track roads, continue to do so of course.

Hi All, This evening, I saw the red blob on the top left (ish) of the infotainment screen. On checking it said that I had a software update, gave a code that didn’t show on the System Information screen. However during my journey home it updated👍 The only entry on the system info page updated was: Navigation Data base from 26.4 to………… 26.5 - This wasn’t the info shown on the “available update screen” I hope this is helpful. Does anyone have an idea of the update content? IE traffic signage, speed camera updates, you get the general idea😁

On my 2025 Superb, it required an abnormal amount of input regardless of having my eyes yon the road, side mirrors and rear view mirror, talking to my Passanger and having full control of the wheel. If the motor was empty, straight as a die, I still had issues with it telling me to take control of the wheel, gripping harder didn’t have any effect, I needed to move the wheel a few mm left/right to stop this. Following between the lines was ridicules, it would over steer for even the most minor adjustment moving from one side of the carriage way to the opposite. However, I think there has been at least 1 minor update. Yesterday I drove from East Bristol to West Swindon, set the speed to 66mph. For the first time ever no ridiculous warnings to open my eyes or take control. No more steering flaws. It worked as flawless as the older version in my ex Passat. Finally, I’m happy to use it. I’m all for safety systems, however, don’t release the software until it works properly every time you use it. Switching these services off is safer than using unpredictable systems. Driving around some of Bristols narrow roads with a solid line of cars on one slide of the road, almost always results in the bright red imminent crash warning light and horn sounding. This is an every day occurrence for me!

To be honest, “getting rid of it” won’t necessarily leave your engine trouble free. The main issue is finding someone who fully understands the issue. It’s possible just a blocked pipe, or yet again much worse. I’d find someone who defiantly has the knowledge and ability to resolve it properly. Just removing the DPF May not resolve the issue at all. Occasionally if you’re very lucky a 1 hour run out at 2,000 revs constant can resolve the issue. I would try this first. This issue is normally down to lots of short runs and no long running combined with poor maintenance. Have a look at baz merideth, on Utube