TonyW1967

Thanks, I guess we just need to run it more often - I did add cleaner additive a few months back (to a full tank), so we'll get it on the open road.

I don't mind doing that, but the car starts first time, every time, so does it need replacing?

I wouldn't know, the car has 146,000 kms, and we don't know the service history prior to last year.

To be honest, the smoke isn't that bad, it's not blue or white, IMHO it's probably nothing to worry about - it's driven very infrequently which doesn't help, but that will change soon, so we'll take it to a local garage for summer tyre fitment, and get them to check it while it's there.

And to check error codes, I would need the VAG OBD system?

Thanks both, good points and will follow your guidance! :-)

I don't believe it is blue or white, I just think it is excessive - if I had to put a percentage of 'how' excessive, I would say 25%. We haven't really driven it much TBH, my son is taking his driving lessons, and I don't use it much, so I can't say how much oil it uses. And no, a compression test hasn't been done - we don't haven the equipment to do that, but it is something that we may get a better equipped friend to do in the next couple of weeks.

So, potentially into phase 2 of the Felicia Combi project! Currently we're mulling over starting the following; Replace the temp sensor Throttle body clean (although I don't have the equipment to reset the ECU) Removing all breather hoses and checking for blockage Next though, we're considering valve stem seal replacements - has anyone done this? How easy/difficult is it to do? Any other thoughts on how to minimise smoky exhausts?

If anyone has specific pics of the process/location to splice, would appreciate it

Hi All, has anyone fitted one? I've just fitted a basic DC12V system on the rear, and am wondering where to connect the power (without causing any drain).

Just done the basics in the engine bay, will leave that for the boy. I managed to get my hand on a set of steel wheels with summer tyres, that aren't too old, so we've spent the day cleaning them, rubbing them back, getting rid of rust, and priming them - tomorrow we'll buy some wheel paint to spray them with.

So, just finished the first stage of the Skoda Felicia project, inside immaculate, outside all rust repaired and sprayed, now have to wait a few weeks before orbital polishing! Should be completely finished about the same time that my Son passes his test! 🙂

Yes

I managed to get my hands on one, which was fitted to a bumper, but I broke it when trying to remove it - how does one remove it without damaging it?

So, just replaced the seal, easy to fit! Excuse the mess, I'm re-using the paper for spraying purposes! 🙂

I might get one made via 3D printing. It'll look better.

On the boot carpet - looks like there should be! If so, does anyone have any pictures, or is there a part number for it?

I bought that one from sp-el 😀 I have bought items from amd-autodily, they're a good supplier - I've even returned things I accidentally bought (a rear window seal that I thought was a rear door seal). Used one may be the best option for you, the circlip is easily removable, I removed it with a screw driver and my son re-fitted it by the same method, but circlip pliers are cheap

It would appear to be the case - try swapping the lock barrel from the other door, it's probably the easiest way to check - certainly easier than removing/refitting the locking mechanisms! By the way, after my son had spent hours peering at the Haynes manual instructions, I found the Skoda Workshop manual - much better! Chapter 57-8 onwards.

That's odd, because he's just completed the assembly with the right barrel lock in the left door, and the complete central locking system functions correctly! 🙂

Well, he did swap the locks from right to left, but it wouldn't function correctly, and this morning we found out that he had re-attached the locking rods to the wrong locations (I reiterated that he should have taken photos before he disassembled....)! So, it functions now, but we're going to wait for the lock barrel end cap to arrive, and then refit everything.

So, I think I may have solved it - see the attached images of the lock barrel cap, the lug that is broken should restrict the movement of the latch, which it doesn't.... and low and behold, on line I found new caps!

What we're going to do is to take the lock barrel from the front passenger door, and fit it to the drivers side door - then that will either narrow down the issue, or cause some more headbanging....

This is the lock barrel - note one of the castellated protrusions was snapped off - could that be the cause of the issue?