TonyW1967

This is the mechanism we changed out, seemed to be nothing wrong with it TBH.

Hi All, the central locking on the drivers side door doesn't work on my Son's Felicia LXI, so we changed the mechanism, which didn't fix the issue - the servo works, so next thing to change is the lock barrel - before I order one, has anyone had a similar issue before? The handle is fine, all the mechanicals appear to function correctly.....

Thanks to all for the inputs, I think I already knew the response, but I thought it best to check. TBH, for now, my son will focus on the general mechanical aspects, outside of bodywork repairs - I was just trying to show him how basic light rust repair could be achieved - job done! Oh, and the garage is absolutely full now, no more room for equipment purchases! I'll leave the heavier aspect of car repairs to his college, and the car repair garage that he occasionally apprentices at! 🙂

I can understand your point, but the reason we have the car is to enable my son to get to grips with the basics of vehicle mechanics. Spending a couple of grand on getting a 5 mm crumple zone fixed, on a car that’s barely worth a quarter of that would be the wrong thing to do. I have made it clear to him that normally this type of issue would be fixed and if he were a mechanic in a garage, it would have been placed on a jig and checked for correct geometry. So, bearing that in mind, my original question still stands - is it possible to remove approximately 2 mm from those two points on the door trailing edge, without compromising door integrity, or opening the seam?

Thanks D, but visiting a body shop is not an option. scratching paint is fine, as I have just completed a major repair on the wheel arches, I think I am capable of repairing a door edge, but my question is really, how much material would I be able to remove from the edge of the door, without compromising integrity or opening up the door seam?

So, now that I've completed the first wheel arch rust repair, as I mentioned, the car has had a rear end shunt in it's past, which has resulted in the rear right passenger door catching on the door frame. It doesn't affect the door shutting or opening, but it has worn away down to metal in places, so I'd like to know whether it would be possible for me to 'remove' about 2mm of the door trailing edge (in the areas ringed in blue in the photo) without compromising the door integrity or opening up a seam? I would of course repair/repaint the door trailing edge.

OK, so a week or so of effort, and not a bad result for a first timer! And yes, it is clear that the car has had a rear end shunt in it's past, but I'm not going to get it on a jig to pull the frame straight, so it'll have to do as is. Next job will be the rust on the trailing edge of the rear wheel arches, bumper off for those ones, and I think they'll be a bigger job......

Good idea D! I saw a reply from Lee01 which said ‘yes’. Lee01, could you post a pic, or a p/no?

I’ve circled the area in yellow

So, the 3D printed parts arrived, I’ve fitted the parcel shelf lugs and the gearstick gaiter, am waiting for the rear bumper attachment point cover to dry after painting it!

I've seen that, it's on the LLLCatalogue too, but it doesn't show the right upright or neither of the interconnecting pieces, between the upright and the centre part?

Hi All, I'm gradually finding the missing parts, but am stuck with these ones - does anyone know the part numbers for the 3 parts ringed?

I actually found a used one yesterday, I removed it myself without damaging it, so will try to fit at the weekend.

Coolio! I think my Son would like that! :-)

Hi All, I've ordered the frame that fits in the gear lever recess, but as I've heard these frames are easy to break, is there any specific way to assemble, or are there any other parts needed to complete the assembly?

Well, we did it - everything appears to be working well, we even found have a metal circlip under the rocker cover (and no missing circlips!). Interestingly, we 'may' have turned the crankshaft in both directions, but nothing seems amiss.....

I can't find any available in the Czech Republic

Ah, thanks - which is the correct direction to rotate?

I checked, I don't think that oil is available in the EU yet?

Would this method need the front wheel(s) off the ground?

Yep - 'if it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer', was a saying when I was an engineer in the military, although, reality was slightly different! 😄

Thank you, will look into that.

Hi All, my son and I have just changed the engine oil on his '98 Felicia (1.3 LXI), and as we had previously noticed some oil seepage from one of the engine plugs, we checked that out (number 6 in the diagram) - interestingly, there was no seal fitted (metal washer - number 7 in the diagram), which would explain the leak/seepage. However, as you can see from the image, there was a lot of black gunk which had formed a block behind the plug hole (you can see the black gunk on the screw driver - the gunk was very thick, I could push the screw driver blade through it). The actual oil removed from the engine was actually very clear, so I'm a little confused about this. Any thoughts? I was thinking perhaps an engine flush, but what do my learned peers think?

I actually found this in a recent post here - Instead of taking right front wheel out to access the crankshaft pulley nut and use a wrench to rotate the crankshaft, we can just jack up the right front side of the car till the wheel is up in the air, engage 5th speed and rotate the wheel by hand to rotate the crankshaft. So it's not a method to 'reach the overlap', it's an easier method to rotate the crankshaft.

OK.... so having just changed the oil, etc, tomorrow my son wants to check the valve clearances - we think we're OK, apart from knowing where/how to rotate the crankshaft - it doesn't show it in the Haynes manual!