rrjmaier

Good to know that it was a faulty camera and not a more sinister incompatibility. Since you now have a proof that it was faulty, you could report this back to the seller and he might agree to refund the cost of the cable but then on then other hand, he has already shown some understanding and taken responsibility albeit at a cost of 8 Euro. But since you now have a working system, I would just let it rest. Thanks for letting us know.

I am trying to figure out if I can extract the PIN code from my Skoda Scala 2023 for a new key fob and immobiliser chip My PR code listing states: EL2 Online service, with OCU, without head unit coding and engine immobilizer interconnection Can somebody please explain this to me Thanks and kind regards Robert

Hi J.R. I've calculated the difference between you tyre size (when new) and the difference is around 4.9%. That is quire a lot. I thought that the tyre sizes should be within 3% or else the system complains because the front and rear wheels are spinning at different speeds and that would upset the traction control. I drove my skoda scala with 185/60R15 (winter tyres) on the front and 205/55r16 ('summer') on the rear and the traction control threw a wobbly, the car went into limp mode and when I witched off traction control the engine control light went on and despite resetting the tyre pressure or waiting for the engine warning to reset itself it always cam back on and limp mode. so my scala did not like a 4.8% size difference at all. The reason why I had 2 different tyre size was that I was waiting for my tyre supplier to get the right size of winter tyres.

Ahh, do the external valve stems look different for a valve mounted TPMS system?

I have a model 2023 Scala and the list of PR codes shows 7K1 Tire pressure monitoring system . Can anyone confirm that this TPMS system uses the ABS sensor for checking the tire pressure and has NO sensors in the tire or if this PR code refers to dedicated TPMS sensors in the tires ? Thanks for your help

I also just used the Link provided by Duncan (highly orderly) and the response of the ebay seller was near instantaneous at 11pm and the PR codes came flying into my inbox as a 7 page PDF. here is the link for this seller: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286236597304 At £4.87 this is highly reasonable. The dealer I bought the car from here in Edinburgh has not been 'able' or willing? to assist and provide me with the codes despite several attempts a their sales and customer support. I got a good discount on the car when I bought it in February, since it is a 2023 model on a 74 plate (the model before the late 24 face lift) and the new 25 plates were just around the corner but the after sale is lacking severely. It is one of the biggest multi brand car dealer franchise in Scotland.

Wow, what an excellent, detailed and prompt response! Lot's of kudos to you. I have been hesitant to go down that route but after this I am rather more confident. Just didn't want to fuss around my scala when it still only has 200 miles on the clock.

Hello All, I have searched my new Scala SE 1.0 TSI (built 2014) for the PR code sticker and cannot find it anywhere. It is neither in the car nor is it in the owners manual or any documentation I was given when I bought the car from the dealer with 10 miles on the clock. I thought this sticker is an integral part of the car and is referred to in the manual. The dealer seems to be not responding - I will name them if they do not come back to me in 2 working weeks. Any suggestions ??

Mike, I do understand your concern but that is the reason why I am aiming for a relay. This is a passive component which is plugged into a socket and has no other interface connections with the rest of the car. It is actually a rather ancient technology and as such nearly bomb proof. The circuit for the starter motor should be very straight forward and no ecu interface in the connections. The modification I have done to the relay (and others have done too) is to interrupt the connection between the input pin for relay actuation coil and the coil itself and have routed this to a manual switch which i can hide in the car. When the switch is off, the relay simply will not be able to actuate. When I want to start and drive then I flip the switch and it remains on during driving, thus also allowing start stop and any other function. The one issue I have is that I never had a car with two relais (or a DSG gearbox) hence I am going at this at a slow pace, but I dont think that there is any real issue in regards to warranty or otherwise. Simply pull the modified relay and replace it with the standard one.

Carlston, Thanks for those details, Well the 3mm movement into the wheelarch isn't realy very dramatic, especially considdereing that these would be for winter tyres and being used at lower speeds. The 195/65R15 would be a good size winter tyre and I will look into that for the next cold season. Hopefully, the main winter period will be over for us here in Scotland and thempeartures should rise a bit. Today we actually had a near unbelievable balmy 14 degC.

Further to my initial post, I wanted to add that my Scala is a DSG automatic and I have found some information on another web site that there might be two starter relais in serie. the firts relay is actuated by the starter switch and the second relay is connected to a clutch sensor. So, only when the clutch is pressed or desingaged will the second relay be closed and to allow the signal to pass through to the starter moror (it could also be the other way around but it would result in the same scenario) . Could this be the case here and if so, would it matter which relay has the kill switch installed?

Hello All, I would ike to install a starter relay kill switch into my new scala. I have now discovered that tyere are apparantly 2 starter relais in the engine bay fuse box. (se attached image). Does soembody here know a bit more about the function of these 2 relais? Why 2 ? And what happens if I just disable one of them? I have a modified 646 relay where the actuation circuit is interrupted and is routed to an external switch which I can hide somewhere in the interior of the car. I could easy modify a second one but I am not sure at this stage if this is needed. Anybody have access to the wiring diagram of teh scala and send me the relevant circuit?

Kenny, You seem to be knowledgable in this. I have a new scala 2024. And I have some old 6J15 alloy rims from my previous Fabia. Howver the ET is different at 38 (measured since the stamping is quite illegible but it also could also be 39) would they work on the scala - for winter tyres for the next season? Thanks for your help .

Hi MGV, How did you get to that menu?

I am a new scala DSG owner and I quite like the system. However, I quite regularly end up in S mode without realising it and have to switch manually back to D .

that would be brilliant if it is possible....

Excellent, just what I need. I have just purchased a base level Scala SE and tips like this are perfect. I'll be on Aliexpress in a sec. Thanks again, Robert

Hello Rum4ro Could you please include the download link to the workshop manual? Thanks

I agree, that that would be an option, although I was jsut checking on the off chance that one is around here. Given the number of potholes on the roads here, bearing an suspension failure is quite common.

Hello All, My front wheel bearing are becomming noisy and need replacing some time in the next few month Does anybody in Central Scotland (Edinburgh +40 miles) have a set of front wheel bearing extractor tools (72mm) I could loan for a week. I am happy to contribute to the cost of the tool for the loan. Thanks Robert

UrbanPanzer It's a projector headlight for the dipped beam and a separate bulb for the high beam I've taken the bulb our and placed it back in the fitting and it locked in nice and smooth and it ended up pointing in exactly the same direction as before ......

Hello all, I have a headlight problem on my fabia estate Mk2 (2012). Both dipped beams are correctly aligned and the right high beam is also correctly aligned (relative to the dipped beam). The motorised hight adjustment is working well on both sides and moves the beams up and down reliably and equally. However the left high beam is pointing far too much downwards. I know where and how to align the whole light unit which moves high and dipped beam at the same time, but is there a separate alignment for the high beam to bring it up ?? The sideways alignment of the high beam seems to be OK . The left high beam bulb sits correctly in it's mounting and is identical to the right one. When I take off the rubber cap from the back of the high beam lamp I can see inside the lamp housing what might be an alignment feature but that ends in a small non descript pin with a type of small knurled end inside the motor compartment and no clear means of adjusting. Does anybody have any idea what's going on here ?

My horizontal bushes "look" and "feel" OK as they are installed but might look different when you have them in front of you dismantled as you show. I will probably go for the whole wishbone part, saving me the hassle of pressing out and in. Thanks again. Robert

DieselMonte, Great many thanks for your detailed response. That was very helpful. I will wait and see what the MOT tells me next week. It might just be that the bushes (especially the rear ones) are only advisory at this stage and might go through for another year. I didn't drive much in this lockdown year and they were advisory at the last MOT. But it looks most likely if the MOT complains, that it will only be the rear ones which might need to be done and if so, I will follow your advice on just replacing the bushes. The front ones seem to be very solid and no play. Thanks again Robert PS: I checked if the bolts are moving, including the 3 nuts on the ball joint, and they all do, so no worries about needing an impact gun, just a long lever. :-) Ball joint feels OK, so I will just remove the bottom 3 nuts and leave the ball joint in place for another day under the car in years to come

Hello all, I am about to change my wish bones on my Fabia MK2 (5J, 2012) and have two questions: A ) Do I need to loosen the wheel nut and push back the drive shaft to lower and remove the wish bone and B ) The horizontal bolt holding the wishbone at the front is quite long and it looks to me if it could foul on the oil sump of the engine when it is fully retracted ? Could this be a problem? I remember reading somewhere that I would need to lift the engine by an inch or so to give me enough space to pull out the bolt far enough to releade the wishbone. I am getting the complete wishbones with bushes from eurocarparts. ( Starline Suspension Arm (Front Axle Right) Product Code: 615780089 ) There are two Brand options available "Starline" at £61 and "Lemfoerder" at £96, any preferences there? Thanks for your help