niceyellow vrs
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Posts posted by niceyellow vrs
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Time to find a more sensible MOT station by the look of it.
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I've had air horns on every car I've owned, really loud ones and never failed and MOT for them. I'd hazard a guess that the tester is a bit of an end of a bell.
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Combi roughly translates as "I am a loser who thinks I am above just calling it what it is, which is an estate"
Hope that helps.
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For the cost of a new pickup pipe, which is about £20, I'd be replacing it before I wrote the engine off. Part numbers for the pickup and rubber o ring are 06A115251 and N0282222.
While the sump is off, it's a 2 minute job as it's only held on by 2 small bolts. No need to be thinking about changing the pump aswel, I've not known one to fail on these engines, it's always the pickup.
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That's another atmospheric valve so also no good. A recirc valve has connections for two hoses, an inlet and an outlet.
The manangement for the 1.8t expects the dumped air to go back into the system, as the MAF has already accounted for it, so if it's dumped to atmosphere, the computer doesn't know where it's gone so effectively thinks that there is a boost leak.
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Sounds like you've experienced the classic blocked pick up pipe. When the gauze in the pick up pipe gets blocked it can't suck the oil through from the sump and so the engine is starved of oil. The top end gets noisy quickly due to the hydraulic tappets not getting the oil they need. If you're lucky, a good clear out of the sump and a new pick up pipe and you might be ok. The presence of metal in the sump is concerning though, but as you've already got the sump off, you may aswel stick a new pick up on and see if you've got away with it.
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I replaced my split hose with one of these:
Also, you need to change that atmospheric dv for a recirculating valve. The 1.8t gets very upset by atmospheric valves
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I see the problem, that special stabbed hole in the pipe will be a creating a massive boost leak. Where does the pipe that's pushed into the hole go to?
Also, the recirc valve is running the the wrong way round. The bottom of the valve should go into the intake pipe and the pipe that comes out the side of the valve should then go across to where the bottom of the valve is currently connected to.
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Spent a nice Good Friday afternoon, in the passing down rain, giving the car a service and check over in preparation for it's MOT next week. Fresh oil, oil filter, plugs, fuel filter and pollen filter along with a brand new pair of brake discs on the back. The old ones really were knackered.
so MOT next and then I have to find time to replace the turbo actuator and fit my front mounted intercooler and with a supersize turbo intake pipe.
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So, I've gone and got myself a little restoration project to tinker with when I get a little bit of spare time. It's definitely not a Skoda.
Picked up this little guy last night for £35
Saw him pop up on Facebook Marketplace and decide I could give him a home
He's in fairly decent nick structurally, the pedaling mechanism is all ok. I'll be stripping him right down and fully powder coating him. His tracking is slightly off so a new steering rod is on the cards and I need to see if I can source a replacement spare wheel to bolt on the back and his windscreen is missing. The original screen looks to be just a simple bit of metal tubing so worst case, I may fabricate a new one. He needs a horn too but that shouldn't be too hard to sort.
Might be a little while before I get round to sorting him out but watch this space.
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So the other week I nearly lost the car. Pure carelessness on my part. Whilst refurbing the injectors, I managed to completely bugger two of them causing them to stick open. In mucking about with them trying to establish the problem, vast amounts of fuel got sprayed everywhere and a larger than I was comfortable with fire started in the engine bay
Only just managed to get it extinguished before it really took hold but it was a bit of a tense couple of minutes which resulted in having to replace quite a bit of wiring and some of the vacuum pipes under the inlet manifold along with the crank sensor too. After I'd patched it all back together, it smoked all sorts of colours for about 15 miles before things finally settled down. Thankfully there doesn't appear to be any lasting damage.
Couple of little jobs done this afternoon as I got home early from work. I replaced the turbo to downpipe gasket and the coolant temperature sensor o ring as both were leaking slightly. Nice easy jobs which didn't involve anymore fires. Also booked it in for an MOT in a couple of weeks time. I don't envisage any issues. Rear brake discs could probably do with replacing as they're past their best but apart from that it should fly through.
Got a couple of goodies coming next week from my mates Octavia that'll I'll be helping him strip but more about that next time.
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29bhp from an exhaust is a very bold claim. When's it going on the rollers?
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Sounds more likely to be the drivers door latch microswitch issue. When the stuff isn't working, you'll probably also find the the door open light on the dash also doesn't come on despite the door being open.
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I'm running the Audi TT front setup with cast wishbones and hubs along with the TT quick rack. Fitting that lot really made the car feel a lot more precise. I've also just replaced the original worn out shocks with Bilstein B4's which retain the standard height and comfort. I've also got an adjustable whiteline rarb which does make a big difference. The only way you'll lose the back end is by lifting off mid corner but that is normal for a fwd car even without a rarb. I've never lost the back end because I'm not a clown and know how to drive
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I put a Golf Gti box in mine with an EVS code. At the time, Octavia vrs EHA boxes were going for silly money and it was loads cheaper. The ratios in the EVS box are the same but it has an ever so slightly different final drive which has made no noticable difference in acceleration but does drop about 200 revs when cruising on the motorway so fuel economy has improved.
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I believe that the black wire in question goes to the alternator. Depending on how corroded the connection is, it may also be worth replacing that cable to. I shouldn't have thought it'll be related to the MAF code that's being thrown up.
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Very common problem for these fuse boxes to get hot and melty. When mine did it, all the dashboard electrics started to cut in and out. Easiest was just to replace the whole box. I got one from a scrap yard for a tenner.
There's a couple on ebay
Or try giving Devonutopia a message on here, he breaks Octavias quite regularly so may have a couple knocking around.
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Check the wiring loom for the coil packs on top of the engine. They have a habit of becoming brittle and breaking over time. When the wiring loom starts to break down it struggles to cope with the electrical demand required by the coils when you give it the beans.
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3 minutes ago, sharkrider said:
I'll give you £100....... :P
I think you should keep your £100 for the next time one of your vehicles inevitably breaks again.
This car has reliaility that you can only dream of
No amount of money would ever buy this car anyway, it's just too good to ever part with.
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3 hours ago, HarleQuinn said:
Following this, I am also #TeamRed but a mk2 so I am always interested to see what people do to the red Octavias. This is a beautiful car, the alloys work really well!
I do find the ride a bit bumpy on my car, 100k miles now so would consider a change of shocks. You would recommend the Bilstein B4 highly then?
Indeed. I ran them on my BMW compact and liked them. Reasonable firm but still comfortable which is what I wanted. Also, they're not too expensive either. I got the full set brand new delivered for £190.
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Greetings,
Not so much of a project this, more of a maintain and enjoy sort of thing.
Anyway, this is my second Octavia vrs. I sold my first yellow one to my Dad a few years back as I fancied a Fabia VRS. The Fabia was a massive sack of **** so I sold it in bits and as my Dad wouldn't sell me the yellow one back, I bought a red one. I went for red 2nd time around as my Dad said he would've had a red one if he had a choice of colour
I bought this one in April 2014 and apart from a gearbox bearing seizing and spliting the casing, it's been very reliable. Despite it now being 14 years old this year, it still looks great and is in really good nick.
It scrubs up well but it's not a show queen and I've no intention of making it so, it's a car and is there to be used for whatever I need of it. Sometimes I need to carry a lot of stuff and the room in the back is always useful
It's lightly modified but not excessively so. I want to keep it fun to drive but also a nice place to be and most importantly reliable.
Inside is nice with a black carpet and the previous owner had the seats and door cards retrimmed with a nice black leatherette material which replaces the white mesh stuff that constantly looks grubby. I retro-fitted cruise control to it and that makes it very pleasurable on long journeys.
Perfomance wise it has the following:
Jabba remap running 215bhp and 225ftlb across a nice range. It's grunt is smooth and relentless.
Carbon intake and some generic recirc valve. It runs much better with the generic valve than it did with the Forge 007p I had on there.
Full stainless exhaust with 200cel sports cat and no middle box.
Baffled sump.
G60 solid flywheel and VR6 clutch setup.
Golf GTI EVS gearbox. I went for this as it was a much cheaper option when the gearbox broke. The ratios are the same except for a tiny difference in final drive which has actually improved the car as there's no noticable difference in acceleration but it does dropped a couple of hundred revs on the motorway so fuel economy is better. I regularly see around 42mpg on a motorway run.
Audi TT front suspension set up with quick rack.
Whiteline adjustable rear anti roll bar.
Polybush dogbone mount.
So as you can see, not mad on mods, just stuff to make it that bit better all round without compromising general use.
Recently, I've just treated it to a new set of shock absorbers. At just under 140k the originals were done. I went for some Bilstein B4's and it's made things much more comfortable. I've also replaced the cambelt and water pump last weekend. Surprisingly turned out to be easier to do that I thought it would.
It also had the wheel alingment sorted out yesterday. It definitely needed it after I'd had everything apart for getting the shock absorbers in. Goes in a straight line again and the boys in the garage said they like working on my cars as they can always get things apart easily due to me always copper greasing when I put stuff back together.
Going forward, it'll be getting a front mounted intercooler when I help my mate break his Octavia for parts. It also could do with a pair of tyres soon and I want to get the wheels rufurbed this year as the paint is starting to bubble and flake a little bit. Apart from that, it'll be general maintenance to keep it going. No plans to ever sell this one, it's a good one and I intend to keep it that way.
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Far too far for me on a school night, thats a 3 hour round trip without traffic jams.
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Just now, sharkrider said:
Anywhere with a racetrack... the meet at Blyton was awesome....
I wouldn't say anywhere with a racetrack. I agree, Blyton was spot on as we had the run of the place and as it was all contained there was a nice community feel.
Rockingham wasn't so good though as it was completely separated, people either went to the meet or they went to the track day.
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For anyone who's interested, I can vouch for this car being a decent one.
Engine removal advice
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
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The input shaft will still be engaged with the transmission, you need to pull the gearbox quite a long way off to give the shaft enough clearance to get around the clutch.
You'd be better off leaving either removing the gearbox on it's own first or just leave the engine and box bolted together and removing as one complete unit.