c-son

I can report that the same works even without switching on the car power, as I completed the whole SW update with only the radio system powered on. Only after the SW update was completed, I needed to turn on car power to enable OBD2 connection for the adaptation process.

Most of us do not need an update and for those who think they do, chances are that the update doesn't bring any improvement to their particular situation. There are however specific problems mentioned in Skoda TSB's, which these updates are meant to address. I think it's a good advice to consider updating only, if having a problem AND a TSB exists which identifies a certain SW update as a fix specifically to that problem. I did the update because I could and to me it was fun, but I bet most people would not find the process similarly entertaining.

Big Thanks to Pawel for providing the file. My update from version 0241 to 0253 went nicely without any problems. I like to keep my fault log clear, so after the update I did the adaptation thing as well. In case anyone's interested, correct adaptation is to take current value through XOR calculation with C9 D2 and then input back the new resulting value. I used VCDS, details about the adaptation process are well specified on Ross-Tech forums.

Hello! @pab567 please provide a link to an update file for my system if you can. Thanks in advance, I would appreciate it a lot.

The tailgate of my 1.9D estate was rust bitten beyond repair when I bought it, so I got hold of a near mint hatchback tailgate, which is exactly the same part. Also with the new tailgate, I had a slight beginning rust problem underneath the window seal, so I popped the window out, removed all the rust and painted with rust primer, sanding primer and body color. I let it dry until the next day and just before I pulled the window back in I treated the lip all around with body anti corrodant, so if it should start rusting again, the treatment would stop it. Plus that, the treatment gives extra protection against window leaks. Remember, they're all the same, so be careful when looking for a replacement. Always check inside the window sealings, you're bound to find at least some rust if the hatch has ever been on. Don't be frightened, this is easily repaired as I explained above when done on time.

I just took the blower assembly out and lubricated the bearings with regular synthetic engine oil. It has stayed quiet since. Very easy DIY job, won't be bothered if I had to do it again every now and then to keep the blower running a bit longer. Still, if the above shouldn't work, a new blower motor assembly is a very cheap replacement part, 64,90€ with fans included.