JUT
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Posts posted by JUT
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Also please keep in mind a certain Jason snapped his drive shaft(s?) during a (very?) enthiustiastic getaway attempt on a strip.
Admittedly his has been tweaked a tad more than most
- but still' date=' just be aware of it. Might be worth having a few gentle attempts on a private road - which would be a quiet road, not one where a car may come around - I have a feeling if you manage to get the getaway right you will probably shave a fair bit of time off, wheelspin will be a problem for sure though.What tyres are you running?[/quote']
Was runnig Michelins or Kumho 712s on the first attempt, don't remember.
Now I'm running Falken FK452s which are ordinarily very sticky.
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Hey, while you've got the calipers off, I'd recommend slapping some Octy vRS brakes on there instead... go on, you know it makes sense
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There you go,
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anyone know if these work and what issues could i expect if i were to fit one?
thanks chaps
As the others have said, it's basically a simple eletronic device that tricks the ECU into overfuelling. If you have a new fabia (mid 2004 on I think?) it will cause your engine check light to come on. Safer if you get a proper remap (as it will also increase the boost and thereby mean you get more air in as well as more fuel), but obviously more expensive.
Plus, if you are going to buy one of those, don't pay
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Having seen what mine was like at 7k, I will be changing mine every ten k from now on. 40k is a pipe dream IMO.
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My god.. never known so much hassel and whinging over a pair of wiper blades.. :P
WHY are these new things suppost to be better than "normal" blades?
Supposed to apply an even pressure along the length of the blade, and match the curvature of the screen I think, thereby avoiding any missed patches. Personally, I don't have a problem with the standard blades so long as they are changed when they start to get a bit tired, I don't know if the Aeros last longer but I'd hope so for the price difference...
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:confused:
Sorry' date=' don't understand.[/quote']
It's a driving school car, see his sig
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Octy 2.0 tdi dsg goes quartermile somewhere in 16.3 seconds, so fadia should do it a little faster IMO. Changepoint somewhere around 4000-4200rpm. (130hp/4000rpm)
I got a 16.69 in a standard vRS, best I could manage post remap was 16.26 - not too impressive but there was a lot of wheelspinning, and from the look of things, I may have had the beginnings of a knackered MAF too. Apparently the trick is to pull off in second gear, so I'm told. No point trying to pull off sensibly in first because the car will still want to break traction once the torque peaks, even from a wheelspin-free start.
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Chris Knott were cheapest for me - half the price (no joke) than More Than (i.e.
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Sorted in the end, Chris Knott managed to reduce their price to an acceptable level
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Apologies for bumping this thread after so long, but it's taken me all this time to get the necessary parts and get around to fitting them!
Pics attached - if anyone wants part numbers or directions, let me know
Daytime it sticks out a bit, but at night they blend nicely with the red stereo illumination and red needles on the dash dials
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Send VRStu a PM
Done
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Where's the cheapest place to buy a new MAF from? Looks like mine may well be on the way out, so I think I'll be getting a new Bosch one and going back to the standard air filter element. Can anybody confirm the part number for me, I believe it is 0 281 002 461 for a 2005 MY Fabia vRS?
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I got my guages fitted and wired up this weekend - boost, OP and OT - will post some pics if you like.
My boost gauge is only a cheapy and don't think it's too accurate - spikes under acceleration to well over 2 bar, but under normal (fast) driving it's between 1.7 and 1.9
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If you get the car reampped what does the insurance company want to know? Is it down to the BHp or what?
Im just starting to mod my car - conservatively at first with seat strut brace and PD160 intake - but am wanting to get it remapped close to when warranty expires (in about a year with my mileage).
Thing is I dont want to get it remaped if its gonna cost the earth to insure - is it possible for an insurance comapny to predict your insurance with different variables?
Of course I could just ring up and ask - but that is a phone call away and you guys aren't.
BTW currently with Zurich via Chris Knott...
Thanks
Most companies band the performance increases into a percentage increase over standard, usually in 5 or 10% bands with an increasing premium depending on how much over the standard output you increase the power - makes sense I guess as it's not really fair to charge the same for a 15% increase as it is for a 30% jump.
In terms of the difference between these bands, well, my remap is quite conservative (standard output was 140 bhp, remapped was 172, so 22% increase roughly speaking, but combined with my other mods, has added two thirds onto my premium, or about
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Cripes!
My vote is either the filter is clogged... Replace filter temporarily with a new standard one and see if that helps.
Or the MAF is b*ggered :(
Or you have a boost leak.
it certainly reads as if it's pushing too much fuel for the airflow.
Another unpallatable is that the turbo VNT may have siezed :(
Well, at least the boost gauge should indicate if I have a leak or if there's something up with the turbo... what pressure should I be expecting on a mapped car?
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I am buying a new genuine air filter every 10-15k on mine. I saw mine at 40 and almost had a heart attack.
Would gonsider a washable K&N/Green cotton' date=' but well I can do 4 more the price of one of them and will probably sell my car if a VRS TDi comes out.
[/quote']Would like to try an ITG foam filter as I've been happy with them on other cars, but don't think they make them.
Pipercross make them and they are only about
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Glow plugs will have no effect on anything but the initial start.
My suggestion would be a new air filter' date=' as at least on the Octy the skoda interval of 40k miles is wildly optermistic. Post that an oil plus filterchange will always help and a tank or two of ultimate then back to whatever you use.
Also when doing the tank or two of good fuel, then warm the engine up and give it a good hard(ish) drive along a motorway at higher revs. Used to do this all the time pre MOT time in my older diesels
EDIT City Diesel as in sainsbury? If so that stuff is dreadful for soot. Proven in at least 5 diesels of various makes. Try standard shell or something of a similar quality instead.[/quote']
40k between cleanings is nonsense, the green filter is a mess after 15k, as shown by some others on here. I cleaned mine at about 7k and it wasn't very pretty, and again about 6k later just last week.
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Yep this is correct - a diesel engine uses compression to ignite (unless it's really cold)...
Chris
Of course, that was a pretty dumb question
But I don't think you can use intake cleaner on a diesel can you? I remeber we tried once on a mates astravan, it redlined and ran for a good minute after taking the key out of the ignition... seemed not to have done any permanent damage, although can't say that for sure as he wrote it off very shortly afterwards...
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8 weeks ago is about when diesel changed from winter grade to summer grade. Try giving it a fill of premium diesel from a forecourt with a high turnover and see if that improves things at all.
Might have to do that - still got half a tank left and just got the workhorse van back from the bodyshop so probably won't use that half a tank for at least a fortnight yet.... damn congestion charging, I want to drive to work!
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Who did the map?
Angel Tuning
Will see if it improves any after an oil change tomorrow, might have a look in the cooler pipes while they are at it and see if they are gunged up.
Want Shell to start selling Diesel Extra down here so I can use it instead of poxy city diesel
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Assuming the car is otherwise running fine....
Check the air filter. Consider the SEAT PD160 intake.
Also bear in mind that the weather has improved lots and the ambient temperature has risen significantly since March/April.
Other things to check are the SMIC for gunk etc. Consider pikey mods.
J.
Did this - green filter not very dirty but cleaned and lightly re-oiled anyway. Didn't make a difference.
Have the PD160 intake, and both pikey mods.
It soots like a bitch, even at night when ambient temperatures are lower, and during colder periods. In hot weather, it's worse. Probably been doing it for about 8 weeks now.
Doesn't really explain the engine bogging down at about 1500 - 2200 revs either.
Going in to the garage tomorrow to get the gauges wired up (oil pressure, temp and boost) so will get an oil change then anyway, will see if that makes a difference - although the oil that's in there is only about 4.5k miles old.
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My vRS has started being a bit of a soot monster lately, moreso than usual, and seems to bog down a bit at lower revs. I was wondering if fouled glowplugs could cause this - it's a 13k mile car, only about 4k since fettling to about 175 brake so not a stupidly powerful map or anything. Any ideas? :confused:
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I saw one of these kits ages ago, before I bought the car, on eBay, only instead of stick-on film / plastic, it was made from 1.2mm brushed stainless steel. It lloked wicked and I regretted not buying it, as I can't seem to find them for sale anymore :(
- but still' date=' just be aware of it. Might be worth having a few gentle attempts on a private road - which would be a quiet road, not one where a car may come around 
- I have a feeling if you manage to get the getaway right you will probably shave a fair bit of time off, wheelspin will be a problem for sure though.
pros and cons (or just a con)
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted