blueheart
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Posts posted by blueheart
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My CR vRS does it too, the only way I've found to stop it is to bang the left side of the glovebox area, deffo not a permanent fix though
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I struggled initially with this too but found a really easy way to do it and that is to bend the rod to give a better angle and then bend it back once it's located. It took about 30 secs to do it that way.
It's worth it just to avoid the puzzle!
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Blimey, some great bike histories on here.
here's mine for fun:
Started in 1975 with a Yamaha DT 125
'76/77 moved up to a new Yamaha XS 500 twin
'79 bought my wonderful CBX 1000 6 cylinder dream amchine which I wish I'd kept, did 1000's of miles on that backwards and forwards to Germany
Kids and stuff got in the way until '93 when I bought a Kawasaki Z1300 fueil injection 6. Too heavy, slow and cumbersome compared with my CBX.
Then bought a VFR 750 FJ in about '95. Also had an MZ 125 and sold the Z1300 about then too.
In '98 I bought a ZZR1100 D6 which was lovely but when the Hayabusa emerged in '99 I had to have one.
Still got the 'busa now and I love it to death, especially with remap and Akrapovic plus a few other mods. Now I'm a bit older it does the trick, even if my knees don't!
I've done 220 mph indicated on the Elvington runway and it was still pulling hard .............................. love it but winter brings out my Octavia vRS LOL
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I like them but they've been around for donkeys years, they were the factory fitted tyre on my 2006 Fabia vRS! They're expensive too and they're are better tyres around for less.
And on my 54 plate Fab vRS!
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Just got a second hand set of four steel 16" wheels ET 50 fitted with 205/55 Conti TS 850's for £300. 2 had 7.5mm and 2 had 8mm of tread left, had only been used for 1 winter so I'm dead chuffed.
Fitted them just before Christmas and I think I've only seen a couple of early morning temps below 7 deg C, bloody typical. Had one long run from Hampshire to Cheltenham and Bristol return, mostly in very heavy rain. They're better than my Eagle F1 Assy 2's in standing water but aren't as straight line stable; I could feel the sidewall flex even running pressures 0.3 bar higher than std. Fuel consumption reached about 48 mpg on the way back though I did keep my cruise below 80.
Very impressed so far I have to say.
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No vested interest here, I only live in Scummerville, I don't work there - or for the petro-chemical industry ....
Love it, only quibble is: you should never use a capital "S" when using that filthy word! Now go wash your hands and mouth out!
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I drive my FL CR 170 VrS DSG quite a lot in manual mode and use both the lever and paddles, probably using the lever more than the paddles. I find I can keep the engine in the main torque band better than the DSG box does. I dislike the Sport mode for normal driving and find it holds on to the revs too much for normal road use, even to the point of power drop off.
The only time I really disliked my DSG box was on the snow and ice. I didn't feel as in control as I would have with a manual box.
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Hi people
I am currently looking at ordering a hatchback diesel manual. I am keen on the 19" upgrade but no dealer that I have spoken to seems to know much about them. The other options would be black pack and heated front screen and spare wheel. I currently have a MK2 FL in race blue and the options I had on that was auto wipe and light, auto dim mirror, spare wheel and curtain airbags. REVO Stage 1 and HR lowering springs to 30mm. Iv loved driving it so have racked up 75k since Dec 09. Dealer is offering £7100 if I place and order, with no restricition on mileage etc. I am also looking at the 0% PCP offer, but trying to work out where the sting is. Esentially I would use my car as the 30% deposit and be hopeful of some cashback, and come the end of the term, I would buy the vehicle. Would I need to state my mileage as low as possible or higher to get the GFV as low as possible.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
That's interesting and very close to my current position Matt. I've got a 59 plate blue vrs with the same options as you but a lower mileage at just over 27k; I bought it 2nd hand with very low mileage!
Dealer's just offered this against mine:
New blue vRS diesel hatch manual.
3 years free servicing and 0% finance PCP
£190/month (as worst case!)
£2000 cash back
0 deposit, just my car as px
Remainder of my settlement figure cleared on my behalf (about £2k)
We now need to put some real figures against all of that to see where the catch is and what the GFV etc is.
All sounds tempting and very interesting so I'm test driving a petrol estate tomorrow!
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Mine made 208 bhp @ 3942 rpm and 461 Nm (340 lbs ft) @ 2693 rpm, remapped by Will at P-Torque. Mines a DSG though so can't answer the clutch question.
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I thought miles to empty was calculated by what remaining in the tank, divided by the running average fuel consumption readout?
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I had an ECU replaced under warranty recently on my 59 plate CR vRS DSG and I think it received a software update at the same time. The reason I say this is that the Maxidot readout is almost spot on now where it was reading about 5 to 7 mpg higher than reality prior to this.
My last tankfull gave a real figure of 42.6 and the maxidot figure was 42.3. I can better this on a long run but my normal journey is 7 miles to work and 7 miles home where I'm lucky to get to 40 mpg. When it's warm and on a long run, it achieves about 45 mpg which I reckon is pretty good.
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My 08 PD vRS manual made 190 hp (166.7 at the wheels) and 286 lbs ft standard
After a P-Torque remap it made 211.5 hp (187.7 at the wheels) and 332.9 lbs ft. This was a fantastic and driveable remap and I absolutely loved it, so torquey and flexible.
My 09 CR vRS DSG made 180 hp (147.1 at the wheels) and 279.2 lbs ft standard
After a P-Torque remap it made 208.1 hp (180.5 at the wheels) and 340.3 lbs ft.
I have to say that I definately preferred the feel and thrust of the PD over the smoother and revvier nature of the CR. As for fuel consumption I reckon the remapped PD manual averaged about 45 mpg and the CR about 42, these were real figures and not readings.
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All sounds normal to me!
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Your engine will still be tight anyway so 42 mpg isn't bad. The readouts generally aren't that accurate unless it's been calibrated. I too have a CR vRS DSG and my son in law has an estate with the same engine gearbox combination, consumption read out is often 8 to 10 mpg better in his estate but when we measure actual fuel used, they are very close.
Last year I went up to Scotland and back in my remapped manual PD vRS with roofbox fitted and averaged pretty much the same as you, 42 mpg.
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Just to be picky, the word is "chafing", no such word as chaffing, Yes I know, very anal but a sore point
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I bought my last VRS diesel 2nd hand and it came with new Nexen N1000's fitted. I was underwhelmed when I saw them but they actually turned out to be pretty good and I would recommend them as a medium budget type tyre.
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When the engine is warm:
1. Left foot on brake
2. Disengage traction control
3. Select Sport mode
4. Press throttle fully down (bury it in the floor and the engine will only rev to approx 2500 rpm)
5. Slip left foot from brake and voila!!!!
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I had one and tracked it for weeks, eventually turned out to be one of the rear seat backs not being properly closed and locked. Lubed it and slammed it in place: no squeek. They can be very frustrating that's for sure.
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Hi Guys
I had a 54 plate VRS from new and moved over to an Octy PD and now a CR DSG VRS. I've been looking round for a Fab VRS diesel for SWMBO and came across a 07 plate with low mileage which interested me. The photos show a distinctly different interior trim inc dark grey cloth seats and modernised radio and controls etc, similar if not identical to the Octy.
Is this standard for year 07 onwards?
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Greetings all!
After a lot of deliberation I finally ordered myself a brand new Skoda Octavia VRS Estate - my first Skoda! It is a 2011 MY, Race Blue, with DSG, Spare Wheel, Variable Boot Floor and Full Leather interior. I had a call from the dealer this morning, and can collect it on Wednesday at 1130. I can't wait!
I hope this forum proves as useful as the forums for my previous cars, a Focus ST and Civic Type S. I'm sure it will!
Told you not to copy your FIL, but at least I'll be able to show you that saloons are faster than estates LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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This is false wisdom. If you read the reports on this basically what happens is you hit the brakes and the back end immediately tries to overtake the front. Dodgy tyres on the back and this means you lose control, good tyres and the back is kept in check. Therefore best tyres should always be on the back.
Not true if you're braking in a straight line. Also, when driving in deepish standing water (as we often do in UK)aquaplaning and braking are your big risks.
I know I prefer my best tyres on the front! Up to you of course, you make your own mind up.
Try driving in the wet with slicks on the front and great tyres on the back. What do you think would happen? IRMC!
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Hi all,
Well, I am a 49 year old professional male, live in rural Hampshire, 10 years NCB, squeaky clean licence, and use my 18 month old vRS for the usual commuting, S,D+P, so not a high risk driver you would have thought. However I have just had an insurance renewal letter from my broker saying the cheapest renewal figure they can offer is £542!
Can anyone out there recommend a cheaper insurer? I haven't Compared the Meerkat or anything yet, would rather go on recommendation.
TIA,
Cheers,
Bob.
I'm pretty close to all of your parameters inc Hampshire, 53 yr old, "59 plate FL Octy VRS, I'm with esure inc remap it's £418, give them a try!
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Can anyone recommend a tyre alignment centre around Hampshire? I normally use Micheldever tyres but want to see if I can find a lower price!
Thanks
I'd definately stick with Micheldever, they sorted out a long term problem I had with my old Fabia vRS even though it took three goes to get it 100% right. They always seem genuinely knowledgable which is not something that can be said for some other places.
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But ABS kind of removes the need for modulation under full pressure braking.
ABS can actually increase stopping distance!
is it driveshaft?
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
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I have had a very similar issue on my 59 plate VRS TDI. It feels like a wheel balance prob but I've had them balance numerous times and have the same problem now with my winter wheels and tyres fitted. Mine feels like the front end is bouncing across the road at about 80 mph on standard wheels and tyres and around 85 on my winter set.
I've replaced both front driveshafts as I thought it might be CV joints but no joy.
Tracking is all good.
I'm beginning to wonder if it could be aerodynamic as in something flapping around, maybe the engine bay undershield.
Any thoughts guys?