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Octavia_VRS

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Posts posted by Octavia_VRS

  1. Thanks, very good of you to nearly offer lol [emoji1303] hopefully my trusty mech shall have it all done for me on friday. Then i can go out for the day on saturday and see how it is.

    Once thing ive noticed since the 24mm fromt whiteline arb. Over humps and quite rough ground and when pulling/breaking there this annoying noise. The guy who did it near i work said this was because of the droplinks that i had with the second hand arb were rubbing on the driveshaft. Since changing them back to OE it has solved most of it.

    When going in via the wheel arch i noticed the postion was in stiff whereas i asked the front to be on medium and the rear stiff. Im wondering if having the front on stiff is causing this extra spongy crashier noise over speed humps which werent there on the OE front arb.

    I saw some people fit an anti lift kit supplied by whiteline but im not sure this would solve my issue as after reading what it does to the camber which i know on hunter 4 wheel laser alignment cant be adjusted on stock vrs sports suspension.

    I took a video ill see if the noise can be heard so you can see what i mean.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    The mech (not my usual one as he was recommended to me By work colleagues as its up the road from where i work) who did the arbs said this happens because of the poly bush rather than the rubber OE use. It probably dont sound as bad on the video but it is and i have to go over a few roads to and from work with speed humps. Plus it happens when pulling away and stopping gradually. https://vimeo.com/173543987

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  2. If you were a bit closer i'd give you a hand

    Thanks, very good of you to nearly offer lol [emoji1303] hopefully my trusty mech shall have it all done for me on friday. Then i can go out for the day on saturday and see how it is.

    Once thing ive noticed since the 24mm fromt whiteline arb. Over humps and quite rough ground and when pulling/breaking there this annoying noise. The guy who did it near i work said this was because of the droplinks that i had with the second hand arb were rubbing on the driveshaft. Since changing them back to OE it has solved most of it.

    When going in via the wheel arch i noticed the postion was in stiff whereas i asked the front to be on medium and the rear stiff. Im wondering if having the front on stiff is causing this extra spongy crashier noise over speed humps which werent there on the OE front arb.

    I saw some people fit an anti lift kit supplied by whiteline but im not sure this would solve my issue as after reading what it does to the camber which i know on hunter 4 wheel laser alignment cant be adjusted on stock vrs sports suspension.

    I took a video ill see if the noise can be heard so you can see what i mean.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. You need a long extension then you can get them through the wheel arch. Takes a bit of patience but you'll get there.

    I had those but no 5mm allen socket lol only 6mm. Ive seen read its better to use 1/4" wrench to get in and out with. I have sent back the Upgraded Pierburg Piston Diverter Valve 06H 145 710D and brought the GFB DV as i didnt realise the OE part was a solenoid and after making a decision i thought lets try GFB instead. Although some people on here from older posts imply it makes no difference changing the DV but if the diaphram is split it surely can only improve things. I am having the paintwork done tomo and thursday and a full service on friday.

    I let kwikfit do an oil change in march. I have had my oil light come on once, had two put in 1l of oil twice. So i am getting my normal mech to change, oil, oil filter, magnetic sump plug, fuel filter, spark plugs, coil packs, DV, then i have brought BOA Engine supplement PN 110 and to get rid of the **** oil kwikfit have clearly used is BG EPR pn109e.

    Hopefully after all this and last week having a new battery, PCV Delete and f&r arbs and new droplinks it will be like a new car.

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  4. I think my big issue is my drive way has a downwardslope and i tried accessing the vehicle by pull it sideways across so it was more level. Jacking up the drivers side. But going in via the wheel arch i could undo one bolt but not the other two. This morning i thought if i had jacked up the other side and left it on an axle stand and jacked up the ds again i could of then moved the steering wheel to move the disc or moved it manually which may of been enough. The reason i abit concerned cus of the slope. Ill show u a pic so u can c what i mean. Perhaps someone can give me some tips. I have ordered off amazon some allen sockets coming tonight between 6-10pm

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  5. I was examining my exhaust at the weekend while the tracking was being done. No obvious holes, its original from new.

    It is a 2008 mk octviva vrs. How long should they last? I have done nearly 70,000 miles. I was looking at buying the miltek from turbo back. It says it needs a stage 2 remap.

    Mine only has a stage 1. The standard pipe is 2.75" the downpipe and sports cat is 3" what would happen if i didnt get a stage 2 remap is the .25" really too big for gases on a stage 1 map?

    Also if you buy the de-cat option can it still pass an MOT, i assumed it could not as it has to present like the DPF saga am i correct?

    Thanks

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  6. I wouldn't have said they suffer from heat soak having 2 heatshields, the one round tgebfilter fits flush to the bonnet to stop the majority of heat.

    I've done a way with a fog light and fitted a cold air feed anyway ;) I've also made a headlight intake just for the hell of it :D

    When you get a chance take a pic? Does it pass its MOT if they have fogs and you take them out then?

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  7. Much better than the poor stock design, i would recommend buying the heatshield that sits between the turbo and intake pipe though as things get a little warm.

    I run the MTC kit which is the same as the oversize kit and a ramair filter.

    Its noisey ;)

    The oversize ramair kit for £155 does come with two heatshields [emoji1303] one for the cone and one at the back. I just thought about buying one of these but dont like the noise they make. To max power in my eyes(as in it sounds more noise that airflow?). I got hold of a second carbonspeed CAI. For a decent price. Ill see how it does. After abit more reading of old posts and other forums dont the cones suffer heat soak? Which is why the CAI are so damm expensive?

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  8. Oh, one other thing to mention if your considering it

    You will have a big fight with the pipe connecting to the turbo housing, one of those pressure releasing clips in a very tight spot but then it's extremely well sealed on even after you have got the clip off

    I just used a 2ft quick release clamp to remove the metal clamp from the engine trim feed to air intake if thats where you mean its hard to get off. I use this method when i need to change my air filter. Works a treat

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  9. Yes that's correct. Quite easy. Undo connector, 3x 5mm (if I remember rightly)Allen key bolts. Pull out old one shove in new one etc. Bit fiddly to do upper bolt as working blind but easy enough as long as bolt heads aren't f@@@d. Make sure Allen key in well before turning as can strip bolt head and then it's a nightmare!

    I bet ill have more fun taking off the tray underneath than anything else [emoji23]

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  10. I find in my petrol 2.0tfsi when i use shell vpower nitro + it always gets more miles out of a tank. If it has several tanks filled back to back my car performs better. If i mix it and buy 100ron(shell vpower nitro+) then switch to cheapo 95 ron on my car it suffers and i have owned this car for 6 years this year and every time i do it. I get less miles out of a tank of fuel and the engine doesnt simply like it. I have found when i cant make the effort to go to a shell station that the next best was texaco super unleaded and tesco momentum. The issue is i find that some petrol stations do something because i have tried many places all selling shell vpower nitro+ and i swear some arent giving me shell because i have inconsistent performance from certain garages. I swear half the issue is where you buy it from and whether they are being honest. When you get a garage with vpower nitro+ and its the right stuff my car performs so much better. I would even go as far to say the pumps somehow at the same garage for the same fuel have given me different results. I know people

    Will think i am talking **** but it is how its been viewed by me. Its not a placebo effect either.

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  11. Hi

    Which is easiest from the top or bottom of the engine to replace the DV?

    I have brought the upgraded one with the piston head. Can anyone help and give some pointers if they have done it please. This is for the 2008 pre fl 2.0tfsi octavia vrs.

    I found this video on youtube

    but i still weren't so sure, as the quality is a little dark. I guess its from the bottom of the engine after removing the tray?

    Thanks Ryan

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  12. Thanks. Is yours standard or modified?

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7

    I had them fitted with it standard. All it has now is a stage 1 map and whiteline 24mm front and rear arbs. Its stopped the roll into the corners. Only snag once the front has been changed although the droplinks were changed to new oe ones theres a little annoying rub which still could be the driveshaft.

    I have since learnt most change the rear only and put it on stiff setting like i did with the front on medium. I have also found out switching to poly bushes from rubber causes more vibration through the car. The rubber oe bushes are more forgiving. So maybe the uprated front arb is an issue because of the poly bushes.

    I also fitted last week a pcv delete kit which has made a difference to my car.

    I need to fit these which i got this week, uprated diverter valve, audi r8 red coil packs, those spark plugs from awesome gti.

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  13. If yours is a vrs 2.0tfsi i would go with the ones from awesome gti. I use those on my pre fl mk 2 2008 vrs

    The difference will be platinum, double platinum and iridium. For the 2.0tfsi i have been told by two VAG mechanics to use iridium tip spark plugs.

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    • Like 1
  14. I have this fitted with a stage 1 remap and I really do think it's improved response and top end performance considerably

    The way it fits the engine is very nice too using bolt holes that already exist to stop movement/vibration

    Even though you don't care about sound, it's amazing lol it sounds like darth Vader and has a nice blow off sound even when driving easily

    Edit : the air filter is closed in by the Heat guard provided and shuts against the bonnet flush with rubber trim

    How long have you had it fitted and has your mpg remained the same or got better or worse on town and motorway driving?

    Did you pay £155?

    Thanks Ryan

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