Fugs
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Posts posted by Fugs
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Im in Ireland. Crank case breather is not in great shape.
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Hi all,
Long time since I posted here.
I have a 04 octavia rs 1.8t with a revo remap and 118k miles. Normaly the car runs great and gives good boost at around 3k rpm and stays on boost right up through the revs. I've noticed lately that at around 3.5k rpm it gets a bit juddery. Sometimes for only a second and sometimes longer. Its like the car is getting starved of fuel. Its intermitent and sometimes the problem is not there at all.
I gave the car a good service only 3 days ago to try rectify the problem and it seems to have helped but not eliminated the problem. It seems to get worse when driving for more than say 15 minutes.
I changed the oil, air filter, Fuel filter(which was very dirty) and plugs. 4 new coils were fitted at about 105k miles.
Could my fuel pump be on the way out? Or could there be a boost leak problem(I doubt so myself becase its not constant).
Any help appreciated thanks!
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The spring is fine, I have a new cv joint fitted aswell which I'd forgotten about. I have koni shocks and 400lb springs fitted. I can feel the rattle through the floor but I notice its better after the car heats up telling me its the drive into the box or the box itself. Strange one this. Top mount bearing is recently new also. Can the ennd of the spline into the box wear?
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I'm getting a knocking from my front left when turning left. Only when turning slightly left, when I steer more it goes away. I'm hoping its the drive and not the lsd in the box. Car is a vrs 1.8t and has recently had a new wheel bearing fitted(5k miles ago). I have powerflex wishbone bushes also. It could possibly be the tyre as they do need changing.
Any Ideas?
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I am getting a horrible whinning sound at times from my car. It sounds like the power steering pump. I can hear it very clearly inside the car (Like its coming from the steering wheel), but when i pop the bonnett and try source it I can't hear it. As the revs go up it seems to dissapear and I mostly have it when the car is cold. I cannot seem to find the power steering pump or even the resevoir for it! The car is a 1.8t vRS. Can somebody please help!
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I started the day on 30psi cold but after a few laps it went up to 37. So I dropped back to 28psi when hot. They rose again to about 32 so I dropped back to 30. So I reckon about 22 psi cold to start would work well.
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I'm comparing a quaife torque diff with the standard diff.
Standard diff - the car understeers badly when power is on so you can't put power down untill your almost out of the bend!
Quaife torque diff - You can power on really early through the bend, Understeer is greatly reduced and the car actually tends tou pull in the direction your steering giving a higher exit speed on each corner! But hold the steering wheel tight!
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Agh i burned my clutch out after this! Slipping mad. Time for a sachs
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Gmaster I find them perfect. I do drive this car everyday to so I need comfort!
I may in the futer take this car off the road altogether and strip it at which point I might get very heavy springs (800lb) or Coilovers!
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That rec pug looks the bomb. Me and my brother have a scooby sti typre r to but its kind of in bits right now!
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Nibbles I know you wanna Track this car at some point. I use Tarox sport Japan discs for mine and they are fantastic but a tad pricey!
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Nibbles. On the track I was on yesterday 205's do really well.
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Will you not find it a little bit boaty?
How did it go on track Fugs, I have got to get me an LSD
I did a few track days with mine standard and yes it was a little boaty but still great fun and very easy to drive fast!
The best mod to start with has to be the biggest Rear ARB you can get and its very easy to fit!
The car on Friday behaved brilliantly. Tyre pressures kept rising and rising but thats a good thing. The Diff is strange as in it works really well but makes the car pull funny when powering out of a bend. You get traction so early in the corner that in some cases I'm up 10mph faster leaving the corner as I was with a standard Diff. Its a real tight and twisty track so handeling and brakes are a big help.
I did a session of about 25 laps and my brakes just started to fade at the end of it.
Overall though I was very very impressed with me and the car!
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A few more!
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I'm Passing the 200 but I think he was on an out lap. 30 minutes later he hit a barrier and damaged the front a little!.
I passed many a lotus, a Punto Abarth race car, A tvr Chimera and countless other faster machines!
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I've no Idea how much as I'm in Ireland. I'm no expert and it may be woth skimming them in a Lathe. No harm in it I suppose. They are very easy to take off.
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Nibble if they are drilled and vented I doubt you would have enough meat on them to skim! Any descent engineering shop with a good Lathe could do it.
I can nearly Guarentee that the disc in not buckled but it has a hard build up from brake dust. It happens when discs cool to quickly. So I reckon your better off with new discs.
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Just By-pass the lead going to the pad!
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More Mods done lately and got an excellent chance to try them out yesterday. Did another track day in Mondello Park Ireland Yesterday, Friday 13th November.
So Far the list of mods is not the longest but I'm getting there. The car is already 10 seconds a lap faster than standard.
Mods include, Revo stage 1 map, Quaiffe Diff, H&R Springs, Koni FSD Shocks, Polly bushed wishbones, 28mm RARB, H&R Wheel Spacers, Tarox Sport Japan Front Brake Discs, Ferodo DS2500 Pads, Dot 5.1 Fluid, Cold Air Intake, Forge DV Valve.
A few pics
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It might be easier to drop some weight off the car than get more power.
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Bubba its not common on standard Octavias for these bushes to go but they do go on the VRS, especially if you have suspension mods.
Also if your going to upgrade the Bushes than there is no need to buy new wishbones. That sounds like silly expense to me. Just fit them to the current wishbone.
Its not the easiest job in the world. The easiest way in my ipinon is to open the 3 smallish bolts that hold on the ball joint under the hub.
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Hey Chicken I think you may be spot on. I got 4 P-Zero tyres fitted while the wheels were off!
I think If the cable to the sensor gets knocked about a bit it will cause the abs to kick in to.
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I did some work on the front end of my vrs last week and now the abs is acting oddly! When I slow to an almost stop, say 5 - 10 mph the abs is coming on for no reason. At speed everything works fine but this is bugging me a little.
I had the abs sensors off the car but got them back on intact!
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I'm trying to remove the hubs, shock etc from my vrs to replace with some new parts.
I have almost everything off on one side but the cv joint has me puzzled as it wont shift.
I opened the three bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone, so the drive is sitting there with the cv joint. I thought it would just slip off and by looking at the new one it should, but it won't. The inner drive is slipping in and out no problem but the outer cv just won't shif. I even cut the boot off to see if I'm missing something but still no joy. I can't possibly see how its held.
I did however notice a little wire c-clip with the new joints but can't see where it goes!
Help please...???
1.8t RS Running issues
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted
Brought the car into local skoda dealer. Its burning too lean according the diagnostics. They recon it could be the maf sensor although i doubt it myself as its only a year old. Car alrerady has a forge dv valve. I am really starting to think its the fuel pump.
Is there anything alse that can cause this engine to run too lean?