andy-fisher
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Posts posted by andy-fisher
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Not sure on a Skoda but when my Renault did a similar thing I had to 'reset' the window by opening it fully by repeatedly pressing the switch till it was at the bottom and then pressing and holding the switch down for 15 seconds(ish) then all the way up and holding it up, again for 15 seconds, and then it worked as normal again for a few months. Never have got to the bottom of why it keeps losing it's memory of where fully up and down were.
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Mine is a manual but I get much more mpg than that. I have an EGR insufficient flow fault (replacement on its way) causing a MEL light on my dash and even with winter fuel I'm getting 70mpg on the dash which equates to about 63mpg in real life. Signature shows current average mpg over 15,000+ miles. Had a bad few returns due to a siezed rear caliper but once fixed was up to 83mpg (during the summer) on the dash with an all time best real mpg of just over 71mpg (Shell V Power summer fuel, front TP 36psi, rear 40psi, Goodyear efficient grip tyres). I do 90% motorway driving with most journeys being no less than 160 miles with about 60kg in the boot.
With my style of driving, when I give it a spirited drive I get thick black smoke. My pursuit of the Max mpg I can get out of it is probably the cause of the EGR fault and the black smoke. Normal driving I change gear very early and exploit the torque to give reasonable acceleration. When I don't care about MPG then I can still average, real world around 60mpg in the summer (55 in the winter) per tank. Maybe my point is that your driving style can have a huge impact on fuel consumption. With a DSG box I would expect a little less.
Average tank full gives well over 700 miles in the real world and depending how I drive, over 800 miles (I have had over 1000 mile range on the dash but didn't get it obviously).
All this relates to a 1.9PD 105 BJB engine with 5 speed manual. Also had the 'dreaded' police syren sound from the turbo for at least 100,000 miles.
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My BJB is close to 174,000 miles (280,000kms). It has always been set to variable servicing and gets serviced once a year (annual mileage between 15-18,000 miles). Oil used has been Quantum Longlife (VW507 spec). First real engine issue has recently arisen which is a faulty EGR valve. It has never been removed to clean or replace so maybe its about due.
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They are cheaper for the Bosch one, not the Varta though (49p more expensive for that one).
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A whole £1 or so cheaper as its free delivery from these guys.
https://carbatteries-online.co.uk/product/bosch-s5005/#tab-description
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Have you checked the alternator pulley? Mine seized up causing a squeaky belt.
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I used Rad weld as a temporary fix on my renault. Turned out to be a bit more than temporary 4 years on. Once it had stopped the leak I had a coolant change as most of what was left in the system was just plain water anyway so I guess any extra Rad Weld would have drained out to.
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Out of interest, would my BJB be in the same category as the BKC?
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I think the power of my 1.9 is perfectly adequate (not sure what it actually is but pulls well) and I don't find it hard to achieve decent MPG figures. It is starting to drop off a bit now with the colder weather and winter diesel but still in the low 60's. Best tank so far, measured from brim to brim is 71.3mpg. Overall average from 11,500 miles is 65mpg (see signature) but like I said, it's on the way down now.
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2004 Octavia II 1.9 tdi PD105 (BJB)164173 miles. Last tank full was a little disappointing on MPG. Also feel I pushed it a little as it took 54.98 litres before the pump clicked off.
now at 171,000 miles.
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Carista let me turn on my headlights as DRLs. It also let me turn on 'marker lights' but I didn't like it so turned them off again.
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The same fault happened on my Renault Scenic, the cause was a pin hole in one of the fuel pipes. It had worn as it rubbed on the washer bottle. It was a very small hole which produced a fine mist of fuel when under pressure but enough for air to get in when the engine wasn't running (such a fine mist it took a long time to find it). It also only seemed to affect it when parked facing up hill but I could get it started first time if I pumped the priming bulb before starting. Obviously a new pipe fixed that particular problem on that car.
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No its not ... every mirror must move independent... first 5 years works well.
From the manual:
Adjusting left and right exterior mirrors simultaneously
› Place the rotary knob into the L position . The movement of the mirror surface is identical to the movement of the rotary knob.
The adjustment of both mirrors simultaneously or each individual mirror is possible in the Information display » page 19 in the menu point Mirror adjust. (Mirror adjust.).
I guess for LHD cars it will happen when you put the switch in the R position.
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Point No 4: I believe that is normal behaviour for the mirrors.
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Maybe a perfect opportunity to get cruise control if you don't have it already and the WD40 doesn't work.
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I believe that's the Aux belt tensioner but I would check the alternator pulley before replacing the tensioner. If it's seized up then it will make the tensioner work overtime. Google 'VW alternator clutch' or 'VW alternator pulley'. Just had my pulley replaced as it caused the belt to squeak as well as make the tensioner rattle about. Cost ~£46 for the pulley but no labour as it was done during the timing belt and aux belt change.
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When that happened on my car a replacement stalk solved the problem.
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He's had nearly 4 years to get it working...
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Trimble is not my friend.
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AliExpress has some. Here's a starting point
Or a slightly different version
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I have trouble with my exhaust, you can see that the bit there broke and now the silencer is just hanging (secured somewhat with wire at the moment). Where can I get a new one of those pieces (the arm that the red arrow is pointing at). And yes, I do intend on getting a new silencer. Got in a big fight at home over it at as well, I want to get an economic "univeral" silencer of the same/similar dimensions, treat it against rust, then get a welder friend of mine to attach it (family wants me to get a complete new rear assembly which is pretty expensive, especially for a student like me). Also a part of my catalytic converter broke and it rattles now, so I wonder if a universal cat is okay to have (again, would surface treat it against rust) or should I get an OEM which costs literally 9-10 times as much as a brand new universal unit? I can't afford the latter.
That bit should be attached to your silencer, it's not a separate part. Get a new silencer and the hanger will come welded to it.
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I'm not sophisticated enough to have a Stream MP3, just a bog standard Stream.
Interior mirror
in Skoda Yeti
Posted · Edited by andy-fisher
As far as I know the mirror needs two sensors for auto dimming. If you stick your finger over the one pointing forward (during daylight) you can make the mirror dim. Shine a torch on the other sensor and it will dim even more.
edit as I don't seem to be able to type in English.