mrgf
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Posts posted by mrgf
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OK, I won't mention the tyre sizes as being correct and the rotation of the tyres too... Oh bumpers, I just did!
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Just as long as you can return to where you started from, give it a whirl! Be handy to see what happens. Oh, bit obvious this one but... The front tyres ARE inflated correctly? That will make a difference to the steering weight.
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I think you're right there Urban... The adjustment will be in the power steering pump, to weight/lighten the steering.
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I doubt it. Not sure even if the Xtool gadget for VW's will.
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Leave my grammar out of it.... She's a very old lady!
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Plagiarised?
I was totally unaware briskaF1 had actually written that document...
Surely, e-Roottoot just re-posted a post that had already been posted. As he stated an oldie but goodie from 2013, he actually came across the document himself so that would not be plagiarising another person who posted the same document. a little earlier unless it was an original composition.
Additionally, plagiarism would be suggesting you copy work and pass it off as your own, which clearly was not the case.
Still, back-biting is the flavour dejour, methinks! Here am I doing it myself!😇
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My reckoning is yes, you could clean the wipers and see a better result but if they are on their last legs, they will need replacing soon. As they are a service/consumable item and can be had quite cheaply, cleaning is usually normal maintenance but getting new, quality wipers, will improve the visibility massively. If changing OR giving them the once over, make sure to do a good job on the screen as well as a filthy screen will not help in the least.
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I think the weight can be adjusted on vcds so perhaps that needs looking in to as your old one may have been set lighter.
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2 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:2 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:
heres the "key" wording...
Vehicles first used on or after 1 January 1971 must have 2 stop lamps, one on each side.
Additional stop lamps, over and above the obligatory requirements, must be tested. However, if you are not sure that they’re connected, you should give the benefit of the doubt.
So it looks like it can pass without it no issues.
Surely though, this is again, circumnavigating rules as the lamp would have been connected, from the factory, when new? I read that additional stop lamps, would be added POST vehicle build, not as part of the build. So factory fitted high level brake lights, should be assumed to be connected and working, not the other way round?
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That sounds mighty suspicious to me... A dry joint, if I read that correctly, will be un-lubricated. If not lubed from the get-go, surely much of the long-term damage will already have been done? As Sepulchrave said, no bedding in required!
At least they know from the offset. If they have penised it up, they need to repair it!
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It is correct that it should have been a failure...
The MOT criteria for the "Third" Brake light is that it should have at leat 60% of the bulbs working, so a single bulb which is blown is a failure, a dual bulb with one blown will fail, multi bulbs with lees then 60% blown, should pass. This does kind of contradict the rules that ALL bulbs should be operative but circumnavigates the rules due to the actual lamp illuminating. (Hence two bulbs per rear light, if you look. It would take both to fail, to prevent illumination).
There are many modern features that circumnavigate rules, such as signal lights (Indicators), which are meant to be either above, below or on the outside of headlights. Many designers started to fit them on the inner side of the headlights, closer to the grille, as a design feature. This broke rules technically but circumnavigated them when it became a requirement to also have a signal lamp on the outer edge of a vehicle. (Wing, door mirror, etc, evan as far back as on a door, on some cars). This then meant the inner signal was no longer "Breaking" the rules, just getting round them. It has been a bone of contention among driver-training quarters for years as it takes just a second longer to spot the inner signal, then it would ordinarily take and learners take an extra second or so anyway. This is where the recommended "Two second" rule, gets sort of lost a little.
The high level lights are meant to be seen not but the following vehicle, but the one following that, so as to get that extra second, prior to the car in front of them starting to brake, if you follow me. When first tested, they showed rear end collisions drop by around 40%, according to stats as you usually retro fitted them yourself. With that information, they then became more commonplace and eventually, a legal requirement.
As with many aftermarket bits and bobs, such as fog lights, if fitted, they MUST work so when they broke, many owners just ripped them back out, if not standard fitment.
So, you got lucky-following drivers not so! 😇
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Push in slightly and twist off. The shiny silver bit that the black bulb holder looks connected to. The duller silver bit has a slot each side, like a bayonet light fitting but also, a kind of ridge, to prevent it from coming off accidentally, hence the need to push a bit inward.
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MENU< PREV PAGENEXT PAGE >
Fabia Mk2
Vehicle electrics > Electrical System > Lights, lamps, switches outside > High level brake light > Removing and installing high level brake light and light strip
Removing and installing high level brake light and light strip Removing – Switch off the ignition and all electrical components. – Remove trim panel for tailgate (except Scout vehicles with plastic trim panel for tailgate) → Body Work; Rep. gr.70. – Slightly press the light downwards -arrow- and unclip clips from the openings in the tailgate -detail-. Except Scout vehicles with plastic trim panel for tailgate: 
– Put hand through the opening in the tailgate, press catch peg -arrow- and take out light. Scout vehicles with plastic trim panel for tailgate: – Unclip light from the bearing in the trim panel for tailgate. All vehicles: – Disconnect the plug connection.
– Press off catch pegs -1- and remove light strip -2- upwards -arrows-. – Installation is carried out in the reverse order. Note
The light strip is fitted with LEDs, which cannot be replaced individually. If defective replace the complete light strip. -
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Not sure with the Fabia, but many cars used to have the high level brake light feed from one or the other rear light. If the feeding light blows, so can the high level. It may be worth looking at wiring diagrams and wiring to the brake lights to check there is no corrosion/damage to the high level light's feed.
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I would also check against the price of a brand new one from a dealer as they might be similar prices. Not uncommon to find breakers want far too much for used parts and the replacement might be just as corroded as yours, if its of the same era!
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Dunno if they said that correct but it sounds like they swapped the switch with another car and it still does the same fault! The other thing to try if that is so, is try YOUR wife switch in the other car so you know if it works properly. Don't just try one the wife's but swap around completely...
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Alloy Wheels 15" Pace For Skoda Fabia Octavia MK1 Rapid Roomster 5x100 Silver
cut and paste that in to eBay and you will see a fairly tidy set of Fabia fitment alloys for under £400 a set, if they appeal to you. They also do them in black.
15 inch, Alloy, 5 Spoke, Wheels With Tyres. Compatible with VW, Seat and Skoda.
That will show you a set of Antares, used, with tyres for £250 or offers, but collection... Clean but a few scratches/marks.
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Hi Harry, have you thought of just getting yours refurbished? I had mine done a few years ago and at a slightly lower standard but they looked soooo much better and made the car look a lot fresher. Many refurb places will give a discount on the whole set so I'd recon on spending between £40 to £50 a corner, from scratch to-well, no scratches!
This is of course, if your wheels are not Fubar!
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...I too, was referring to the "OR"
Drifting down the camber will not be a reason to make a vehicle steer incorrectly though as there are too many variables, such as some roads have slight camber, others more severe and sometimes, such as dual carriageways, etc, camber in both directions. So you can shove the comment about laws of physics up your tailpipe!
(Oh, and yes, that IS meant to be a light hearted micky-take, along with the first comment, despite being accurate. Put camber on to a vehicle to MAKE it drive over to the left , in the U.K. would be an idea invented by a moron).)
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...Not really sure thats fair! The light and sound was warning you there was a fault, you thought it to be the sensor, it was not and then found it to be the thermostat, which on an older vehicle, pre-dating so many sensors, etc, would have been the first port of call or at least a close second after checking the fluid level and testing for air-locks.
So the car told you it had a fault but as often the fault lays with the coolant sensor in the expansion tank, the thermostat got overlooked and only found later. Not really a design issue of the car.
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On 15/09/2021 at 22:17, KenONeill said:
It has been claimed that this is drifting down a camber or a built in geometric safety effect carrying an unsteered car away from oncoming traffic.
...And drive straight in to pedestrians and/or cyclists!
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Dealer should be able to help...
Or, sell the arm rest and make the box part of the deal!
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In my case, yes. In fact, I think i'd rather try a copy now, then a genuine one as that has made no long term difference.
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try an Xtool v401 tool for VAG vehicles. They say it resets service lights and at about £37, worth having for other functions in the future.
Note
Corner Lights
in Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)
Posted · Edited by mrgf
...But before you go, do you remember how you did the needle sweep?
P.S. Had to smile when I saw Skodfab80"s cars age on the profile... I suppose he went "Back to the future" To get that!