lykos

I live in Greece and the summers here are HOT.During summer time with a/c on the temp does not fall below 110°C for no reason.When I get stuck in traffic or drive on the motorway the temp climbs up to 130°C.The first couple of years I thought that my car was faulty and made several tests with measuring instruments connected.No "solution" was given apart from the use of racing cooling fluid which costs exactly as much as the red coolant SKODA gives and is for temps up to 150°C.I have been using this solution since 2002 with no other problems.I have changed all the cooling circuit hoses only once,in 2007.The only "side effect"is the increased loss of coolant (due to expansion,not evaporation) so I have to add approximately 3 liters of coolant solution throughout the whole summer (2l of coolant&1l of water).I have the original small a/c radiator. NOTE:During my tests I had completely removed the front bumper and the a/c radiator and put a brand new felicia radiator on as well as a new 2speed felicia radiator fan.The temp continued to climb until 110°C.So I conclude that the a/c is not responsible for all that heat production but just making it worse.

Hi.The thermometer and fuel meter both work via variable resistor values from sensors working in accordance to heat or fluid level.The thermometer "reads" resistor values from ~ 300 Ohms(when hot) to ~4K Ohms(when cold) coming from the thermometer valve placed on the thermostat,and which has two variable resistors-one for the thermometer and the other for the ecu.Somewhere in the forum you may find the exact pin wiring.The fuel meter works the same way only there the resistor value derives from a floater that is part of the fuel pump and installed into the fuel tank.If I were in your shoes first I would compare the value that reaches the ecu from the thermometer valve with that of the thermometer in the instrument panel (that can easily be done with a diagnostic tool->engine coolant temperature).If the two values are the same then your thermometer is probably working ok and the thermometer valve should be checked and compared with a new one.If they are different that means that either the valve sends two different readings to the ecu and the panel instrument,or that the new panel you installed has a thermometer that works with different values of resistors than your previous one.The way to find out again is to compare your valve with a new one.You wrote that you get higher temp reading consequently the valve's output (Ohms) is lower than it should.In this case,while using the digital reading from the diagnostic tool,you could try adding resistors of small value-let's say 100 Ohms-in series one by one to the circuit that leads to your panel meter (in order to "drop" the reading on the instrument) until the digital value that reaches the ecu is the same with the reading of your meter.This way you should be able to calibrate your instrument-in theory at least-easily as the cables for the modification are exposed and with more than enough length.As far as the fuel pump is concerned I can't help you with the wiring because I never needed to deal with its wires so I don't know their route,but if you find them it should work as well. p.s. In addition to the diagnostic tool you could use a simple multimeter to measure the two values directly onto the valve by just removing the harness and touching the pins two by two with the probes.If the readings are the same or differ by a few Ohms it means that the valve is ok.Take a measure when cold and a second with hot engine. If you finally decide to do the resistors addition weld them with lead because otherwise with time corrosion will slightly change the value and thus affect your reading.

Sorry for the 1 month delay! philje123 I have had the same problem with you three times in the past.It was the precursor for the automatic voltage regulator failure.Unless you replace the A.V.R. you will see the battery light from barely visible gradually going to brighter,and lit up from lower rpm,until it finally stays on permanently (which is a bad thing for your alternator to allow to happen).For your information,draining current through a damaged A.V.R. contributes to faster wearing of the alternators conductors (and the A.V.R.'s brushes of course but it doesn't matter if is going to be replaced anyway).

Anewman is right.Have the valves adjusted and from personal experience it's better to be done while engine is warm-not hot nor cold.If the problem persists check whether it happens with hot engine inducting cold air (at night time for example).If so,and in combination with noisy timing chain you may need to have the chain changed.When I changed mine at about 120000 Km, for a reason I still can't understand, it had been expanded more than 1 cm!!!until I had it repaired my feli was only a car for the first 15 minutes every day,until it warmed up.From that point on it became a mule

Skury how can I pm you?

Guys,you both have the right on your side,it's true and fact that the ribbed lenses diffract the light and there is loss of pattern.For years I had been searching for clear lenses for felicia but never found anything-I guess I didn't know where to look.Skury the pics you posted look extra terrestrial to me,like they came out from a dream!!!!!But then again,once I noticed where are you from I realized that in the source of Skoda there must be everything! Do you happen to know if those lenses are made of glass or plexiglass? I tried through translations at the page you posted to make an order for a pair of clear lenses,a pair of side indicators and a pair of white tail lights with black lines in the middle.Does it look right to you once you speak the language? Spoilercentrum - Eshop From what I understand it refers to felicia from 04/98 on,right?and it is for a pair of lenses,isn't it? And for the tail lights it says that the price is per piece but how do I tell them that I want 1 right&one left?I live in Athens,Greece.I don't have much experience with internet buys so any help is welcomed. Thanx!!!!!

Hi everybody! I have a felicia which takes every patent I can think of,mostly electrical. I always wanted my lights to illuminate as longer and brighter as possible.Have tried everything from "current amplifiers",various bulbs in quality and wattage,to xenon kit H4 and now bixenon projectors.Compared to anything else,xenon projectors are far in the top with xenon kit following from a great distance but even from there it is not acceptable as far as high beam is concerned.I post a few fotos of the installed projectors just in case anyone of you still feels the need to modify his/her skoda.The advantage of what I did is that I kept its original headlights,removed the plastic mirror from inside and intalled rather easily the bixenon projectors (they have angel eyes as well).This is the testing installation and I think I will be painting the internal of the headlights black so only the crome of the projectors will be visible.I wanted to put clear lenses too but haven't found anyone willing to make me a couple.If anyone is interested I can give details on anything I did.I also have a question:does anyone know where can I find white tail lights?do they still sell for us? http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss315/lyblackman/DSC05474.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss315/lyblackman/DSC05481.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss315/lyblackman/DSC05486.jpg