Cliveski
-
Posts
190 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Shop
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by Cliveski
-
-
Typical, went to open the rear window this morning and I heard a 'snap' of sorts. The rear window is now stuck closed and all that happens if I press the window switch is I hear the sound of the motor whir.
I assume it's the clips that have broken and I need a new regulator?
First question - is the window likely to drop at anytime or will it stay up?
I have done a search and read that the part is @ £70 from Skoda and that there are no repair kits available. I also read it's sometimes cheaper to get a complete door from a scrap yard!
-
As someone said earlier the change interval has been brought down to 4 years / 40k miles (whichever comes soonest). To be honest it's not worth the risk leaving it longer.
I have read the 1.4 16v is prone to having it's tensioner snap early (and this happened with my 3.5 year old VW Lupo Sport with only 27k miles on the clock - which is the same engine) although luckily the belt tends to stay on and cause no damage.
I have also read the 1.9 TDI is also more prone to breaking early.
I'm getting mine done (including engine stretch bolts) in 2 weeks time for £280 at Skoda. I'm supplying my own waterpump (metal impellor) which they will fit for free.
-
I got one of them cans from Halfords a while back - I was using it to measure and top-up a system that was working ok. I then used it on my girlfirends Alfa which hadn't worked for a year or so and adding the gas made it spring back into action . . . for a day or two . . . as there was a leak in the system.
I heard somewhere these things can do more harm than good. I wouldn't bother again as they are simply no substitute for having a proper aircon service where they vacum out your old gas, test for leaks then re-fill with correct ammount of lubricating oil and gas.
Your supposed to have an aircon service quite frequently - every 2-3 years I think - my last aircon serivce only cost me £40 as I shopped around.
-
Just another query for this, what is the best way to remove the pillar trims? Which way do the pull off? I don't want to break them. Is it towards the middle of the car, or forwards and backwards? Also what it best way to get the rear selt belt anchorage off?
Sorry for seeming thick if it is a bit obvious to you all, but I dont want to have to buy more trim because I broke off the clips.
Thanks.
I wouldn't mind knowing the answer to this too . . . . please
-
Thanks for the info everyone. It's an annoying noise but the gears work fine so I guess I will wait until the clutch needs replacing and resolve it one way or another then.
Might keep an eye out for a cheap low-mileage gearbox in the meantime though . . . anyone know the code/type I need? thanks
-
Thanks for all the info - very helpful.
I got a quote of @ £350 from Skoda to replace the clutch (including release bearing) . . thing is the noise I have is when I'm in neutral with the clutch released (ie. my foot not on it) When I depress the clutch (push it in) the noise goes - Haynes manual suggests this is the Gearbox Input Shaft Bearings and not the Clutch Release Bearing - and it lists the noise as the other way round if the clutch release bearing ??
-
-
Thanks for the info - anyone else have any ideas on hours / cost and if it's ok to leave as is ?
-
I have a noise which is apparent with clutch pedal released but not when depressed - my Haynes manual points to Gearbox Input Shaft Bearings.
Working on the assumption this is the problem - and I wanted to get it fixed rather than leave it - any idea on man-hours for the job?
-
Thanks for the info - anyone have the part number / price for what I need? cheers
-
Seasons Greetings.
My standard headunit radio reception is worse than pants. I have done a search and read that water ingress can damage the ampifier/booster found in the aerial base - any idea how much that is? and how I go about changing it?
I assume I need to remove the rear headlining but don't want to damage it!
-
Fair enough - thanks for the info
-
I recently bought a 2001 (Y reg) 1.9 TDI Fabia with a genuine 13,500 miles on the clock.
The car has been serviced each year at Skoda but the timing belt has not been done, I will be getting this and the waterpump done ASAP but is there anything else to have done at the same time?
A problem the car may have is with the clutch release bearing. In neutral with my foot off the clutch I can hear a rumble type noise (like a dry ball-bearing rotating in a socket). When I press the clutch pedal in the noise goes. Could this problem be related to the low mileage? ie. something had dried out and needs lubricating. Is it recommended to renew gearbox oil / clutch oil once in a while? if it is the clutch release bearing can I continue to drive the car? or will this damage something else?
Cheers
-
Air re-circulation switched on?
Damp drying out?
-
"You should be cruising at the speed and then put your foot down. An already accelerating car has already done half the work IMO..."
Yes, Yes, Yes - that makes sense!
The reason why they give out these figures in road tests (I guess) is to show how well a car would overtake - so yes, you are doing a steady 50mph behind a lorry - you then pull out and accelerate past it - so I'm certain the times are from a steady starting point . . . .
Well done that man!
-
Glad to hear I sparked such a healthy debate . . . . I was hoping for figures taken from magazine road tests . . . . but in their absence I guess the stopwatch ones will do (don't want to spoil all the fun now do I?).
I don't have a car at present (hence considering the 2.0) but I had a Road Angel in my last car - a Fabia 1.4 16v and it showed that the car's speedo was a fair bit out (85mph on the speedo was 78mph on the Road Angel).
The 30-70 time would be useful as the magazines say that that is one of the best ways of measuring useable performance. . . . .
-
I have the skoda figures (0-60 / Top Speed) but what I'm really after are the 30-70 through the gears, 30-50 in 3rd, 40-60 in 4th, 50-70 in 5th, etc you get with road test. . . . . anyone . . . . .
-
My air-con packed up a while ago - do a search under 'air conditioning' to find my post (and others) for more info.
You need to get the 'diagnostics' checked at Skoda (they plug your car into a laptop and read your cars 'brain' to see if it has logged any faults).
My car had 4 faults logged on the ECU - one of which had knocked the air-con out of use so it was just a matter of them clearing all the faults, re-program something, and adjusting something else and all has been good so far (cost a grand total of
-
Took car to local Skoda Dealer today (Williams,Bristol) to have my air-con looked at . . . also recently my EPC light had lit up (for one day only) and disappeared so I thought it was a good time for them to take a look.
They hooked it up on VAG-COM and found 4 fault codes:
P1612 Engine Control Unit - Incorrect Coding (18020)
P0171 System too Lean, Bank 1
P1564 Throttle Valve Control Part-J338-insufficient voltage during basic settings (sporadic)
P0571 Brake Switch (A) Circuit Malfunction (sporadic)
To cut a long story short it seems the first 'fault' listed above was what caused the air-con to stop working - they recoded the ECU and all was fine (air-con works a treat now).
Next two 'faults' on the list I assume had something to do with the rough (up and down) idling I experience once in a while . . . they "Adapted throttle valve & EGR Valve" . . . . . time will tell if my idling will now be for ever smooth and if my fuel consumption increases!
Not sure about the final fault . . . .
Total cost was
-
Car Park Dings are my pet hate too . . I'm quite anal about where I park. Given a choice I would prefer to have a ding on something plastic rather than metal.
I do have a confession to make: when I had my first car (a white clio) I parked up in B&Q and when I opened my door the wind took it and it slammed into the dark blue bmw I had parked next too . . . . it left a massive scuff on the door - really nasty! After 20 seconds or so (to make sure the owner wasn't about) I drove off . . . I felt really guilty but I couldn't afford to loose my no claims . . .
-
Nearly forgot . . . it was dead easy to apply too . . . . It's a runny liquid that you can apply thinly with a cloth . . . . it hazes over . . . . you leave it for a while then come back and buff it up . . . nice.
-
Just to let you know this stuff seems to work a treat!
After some 4/5 weeks (and many miles) it was still beading all over the car - even on the front part of the bonnet which would normally go first. It also seemed to make cleaning the car easier last time around too as the dirt didn't seem to stick like it normally would.
-
I recently bought a hand held steam cleaner (
-
Thanks for the info so far . . . looks like I will have to find time to get it hooked up on VAG-COM/dealer gear before the blistering summer starts (we can but hope).
I'm pretty sure the system has never been re-gassed so I still hold out hope it could be that . . . if not my girlfriend is really small so I may persuade her to get her hands dirty!
Rear Window Stuck Closed -broken clip? will it drop?
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted
Thanks for the reply. It's stuck in the closed position so unless it might 'drop' to an open position I have time to find a cheaper solution.
My concern is that the window might 'drop' at some point as what is holding it up right now?