theandywaite
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Posts posted by theandywaite
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On 06/08/2023 at 17:03, Dropnflip said:
Update: I got sorted with the help of a Romanian retrofit company on Facebook. 50euro to unlock it all by first updating the firmware, then adding some activation codes via another software update (both sent to me for me to copy to an SD Card).
He also helped me to update my nav maps, so really happy.
Can she a link, if it's allowed.
Apologies, only just seen this!Glad you got it sorted
On 05/08/2023 at 10:13, Dropnflip said:Have you used obdeleven for anything else? My second hand car did not come with a maps card, so could also do with removing the CID lock.
Yes, I enabled traffic sign recognition as mine has the front view camera, nav & colour maxidot.
Not much else though as I already had Carista (which for simple things I still prefer).
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1 hour ago, Redboy said:
@MO230 Don't waste your money on a different exhaust. It will never sound like a fire breathing V8. Do spend your money on a stage 1 remap, which will provide a very noticeable increase in not only BHP but more importantly useable torque which will transform the car allowing you to overtake single carriageway traffic very safely. The only issue I found on the VRS (which is exacerbated when mapped) is actually putting the power down, particularly from a standing start such as nipping into a gap on a busy roundabout. Once up to 10-+5 mph you can begin to accelerate very rapidly.
Seconded. This is what I was going to say. -
Right so did it all! It's fully working, no error codes.
Wanted to share some tips / tricks and what went wrong so it might be useful to someone else. It goes without saying that this is a risky process - only start if you are comfortable with what you are doing, and can fix it (or afford to pay someone to fix it) if you break it. It's also worth noting, I tried to do this myself to save the ~£160 cost of unlocking it at a dealer, but I ended up having to pay £90 for ODBeleven in order to complete the job, so didn't really save that much money in the end.
Note that my car is a MY2016 with MIB2 Amundsen. Remember, your car might be different.
Step 1 - Research
The first thing I did was read as much as I could, watched as many videos as I could, to make sure I knew as much as possible what I was doing before I started fiddling with anything.
Step 2 - Update firmwareBefore doing anything else I wanted to update to the latest firmware for my unit - in this case I was running 0241 but the latest is 0253. Thanks to @varooom I got the latest firmware for my unit. I simply put this on an SD card, put it into the unit in the glovebox in place of the nav card, and ran the firmware update process on the MIB (press & hold MENU, then navigate the options - pretty straightforward).
Step 3 - Unlock "Green Engineering Menu" / GEM
I have a basic ELM327 OBDII-bluetooth adapter, and Carista - so I unlocked the green developer menu using that. In the Carista options, it said it was for "Discover Pro" only (which I think is VW's equivalent of the higher end Columbus) but it worked anyway. This video might help you understand how to do it, although it's based on OBDeleven, not Carista:
Step 4 - Load the "MIB toolbox"
This is pretty much the same as updating the firmware, but instead you need to load on this software https://github.com/olli991/mib-std2-pq-zr-toolbox/releases/tag/v1.2.1 . I encourage you to read the readme on https://github.com/olli991/mib-std2-pq-zr-toolbox - for my version of the firmware (02xx) it was necessary to copy some files around, before putting them on the SD card and doing the firmware update process. Check out this video:
Step 5 - Unlock Smart Link
Next, use the toolbox software to unlock Smart Link. Here's a video that explains it better than I could:
Step 6 - Dispare
At this point, from everything I read it was supposed to work. I had Smart Link in the menu, and it no longer told me to contact a dealer - but I couldn't get it to connect to my phone, no matter what I tried. A bit confused I had to do a lot of research. It turns out I had 2 new problems I needed to fix:
1) Turns out there is an extra step to code the stereo to activate Android Auto & Apple Carplay
2) An error code - now the car is running updated firmware, it throws an error code as the version doesn't match what it thinks it should be runningI was trying to get away doing this without OBDeleven or VCDS, but turns out these last 2 steps are impossible without one of those tools. So I ended up buying the OBDeleven Pro Pack for circa £90 from their website (it's 30 cheaper than Amazon).
Step 7 - Activate Android Auto & Apple Carplay
This video explains what you have to do in VCDS or OBDeleven to enable these options:Step 8 - Remove the fault code logged in the stereo
There was a permanent fault code logged in the stereo as the stereo was running a newer firmware and something didn't like it. Another video to help fix this:Step 9 - Android Auto
And voila! It works!
Hope this is helpful. I wouldn't have been able to do this without firmware from @varooom, the fantastic MIB toolbox or the excellent videos by mr-fix on Youtube.
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I have decided to try and unlock Android Auto on my MY2016 MIB2 Amundsen.
I believe I can follow these instructions:
Before I do anything else, my first step is to update my firmware so I've just requested this here:
I'm interested if anyone else has tried this, has any advice or gotchas. I will of course update here if I manage to be successful (or not).
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Hi,
Is there any update available for this?
Also - I'm planning to see if I can unlock Android Auto - any one with any advice would be appreciated
Thank you!
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Damn it, too slow. If @Steve5312 doesn't have them, I will.
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Not sure how far it is from you but I'd recommend Sunset in Derby
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My 230 is the same. In fact my wife's old 1.2 tsi Rapid was the same too, so maybe it's a Volkswagen group petrol engine thing?
Just sometimes feels like it's occasionally misfiring at idle. It's always done it and never been an issue.
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Followed above advice and it's all sorted.
New wiper motor from a breaker on eBay.
Touched up the tiny bit of missing paint around the window frame frame.
Vacuumed out all the shards of glass
Autoglass came out to fit a new rear glass for the cost of the excess with no questions asked.
Job's a good'un
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On 24/06/2019 at 20:57, theandywaite said:
Quick question (sorry if this is the wrong place).
When booting, our Columbus has a 1 pixel high red line on the screen, stretching from the Skoda logo to the right edge. Once it has booted there's no red line. It's always done this, and works fine.
Does this mean something?
Just thought I'd add a very very late update to this. This corruption of the boot image got progressively worse and more glitchy over the last 2 and a bit years until just lately the unit stopped working entirely and wouldn't boot whatsoever. So I sent it off to @Rustynuts for repair, who worked some magic and now we have a fully working Columbus AND a non-corrupted boot logo! 🎉
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Hi all
My mum has reversed her car into her garage door while it was partially open. The area of impact was the glass on the tailgate, so there is no damage to the external bodywork thankfully!
The damage is as follows:
* The rear heated screen is entirely smashed and needs replacing.
* The wiper has been pushed in. It looks like the fixings on the wiper motor housing are designed to be sacrificial and these have been bent so will probably need a new wiper motor.
* A very small (I mean small) amount of the metal on the tailgate around the window opening is bent. This is an area normally entirely hidden behind the glass. I'm 99% certain you could just bond a new piece of glass and not bother fixing this as it's not seriously bent and you would never see it.
What's the best way to deal with this? Would it be covered under the glass cover on the policy or is it a proper "accident"?
If she wanted to fix without making a claim who would we call? A windscreen place or a body shop?
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My xtremes have similar. RIght now they still look good unless you really inspect them close. At some point in the future they'll get worse though.
My current plan is to wait until I can't bear it any longer, then get them powder coated black (no diamond cut).
An alternative option I'm considering: you can buy single wheels from a Skoda dealer via ebay, and about twice a year they do a 10% code off any purchase. 2 of my wheels are worse than the other two, so I'm tempted to buy two new diamond cut wheels when the offer is next on and swap them over. By the time I've sold the old ones it's not going to be that much more than a refurb and I can retain the diamond cut "look".
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I had exactly the same issue but on our Yeti.
Dealer wanted £480 for brand new unit. Bought a Magneti Marelli aftermarket one (new) for £280 instead. Genuine second hand units weren't any cheaper.
We compared the new Magneti Marelli one to the ones on the car - both say "Automotive Lighting" (just like your pics above) on the side so are clearly made in the same factory. I looked it up and "Automotive Lighting" are owned by MM.
See my original post:
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Can't comment on the Octavia / 184 specifically so take this with a pinch of salt, BUT I have had several VAG diesels remapped before.
The main benefit IMO with a remap is the improved driveability / throttle response. With a remap it's just so much more linear and instantaneous.
Obviously it makes the car quicker too, but to be honest I've never given a toss about 0-60 times or **** wangling at the traffic light grand prix. Just how it "feels" to drive and whether it's fun to have blast down a quiet country road. On that front I've never regretted getting a map. Also ran mapped cars for many miles and not had any issues but obviously YMMV.
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57 minutes ago, ExSEAT said:
Short version: I've had my low pressure fuel pump replaced under warranty after a year of fighting
Long version....
I've posted about this before but I forgot to come back with an update! Around this time last year a noise I thought was a cooling system or oil circulation started to get worse. It had been making this noise pretty much from new but only started making itself really known during some strike action at work when I was static for a while with the start stop engaged.
I realised that the noise was accompanied by a vibration through the rear seat and that would be worse and noisier as the fuel level dropped. Opening the fuel cap made the noise louder and it could be heard outside the car. OK, decision made, fuel pump problem!
Spoke to Skoda, told me to take it in. Lucky for me the local dealer had gone pop so I had to go to the nearest one in Carlisle. All booked in and dropped off. Told them it needed to be warmed up, was most apparent at idle or when the start stop kicked in. I got a phone call early next morning, no problem found, car fine and they won't be charging me the fee to look at it. So basically I'm simple and they all make this noise. Gave them some vigorous feedback.
Spoke to skoda and booked into next nearest dealer, Dumfries. Took it in for a service in January and to have the noise looked at. After a few hours they say that they agree it sounds bad but not bad enough to replace. Also tell me they have researched and there are zero cases of failed or replaced fuel pumps. Spoken to skoda etc. Wont replace it. This was progress so I didn't lose the plot. Got back to Skoda, gave them some grief and started trying to get it looked at again. Then covid came.
Last month I took it back to Dumfries who agreed there was a problem and replaced the pump. All problems sorted.
So yeah, over 12 months, 3 dealer visits, nearly 700 miles, fuel costs and arguing and its sorted. Shouldn't be that way but it is. Needless to say due to the dealer issues, the time to get something rectified and distance I wont be buying Skoda again!
I wish I could say I was surprised. The way they do business is shocking. We had a really similar issue - cold starting problems on our old Skoda Rapid that turned out to be the fuel pump.
To get it sorted ended up taking 4 visits to 2 different Skoda dealers over the space of 2 months. Along the way one dealer accused us of putting diesel in our car (when that was clearly untrue) and tried to charge us thousands for replacing the entire fuel system. We had to pay out of our own pocket to prove otherwise. All the while our nearly new car would intermittently not start in the morning when my wife needed to get to work.
We ended up with 2 x Skoda assist breakdown reports, plus a report from an independent garage stating the issue was the fuel pump. Even despite this evidence, they were STILL refusing to fix it.
They eventually begrudgingly fixed it but only because I was literally screaming at Skoda UK and the dealer. It was an absolute nightmare.
The car itself has been absolutely perfect since, now belongs to my Dad.
But I will never ever buy a new / nearly new Skoda with warranty again. Still a massive fan of the cars (we own two) but I buy 3-4 year old and maintain them using a trusted independent VAG specialist. Which is dumb on their part, because if the service and warranty was up to scratch we'd probably be in new ones on PCP / lease. Idiots with a short term view trying to save costs.
If you fancy reading the full saga check this out:
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Just now, theandywaite said:
Cheers - any pics of how it looked then?
In fact, presumably it will just look like a facelift car?!
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9 minutes ago, SashaGrace said:
I ran just 15’s on the back of mine which took it to facelift spec stance wise. Looked good but I prefer it how it sits now being lowered and spacered all around.
Cheers - any pics of how it looked then?
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Considering improving the stance of my RS 230 with lowering springs & possibly spacers. Obviously plenty of threads on here about what's best, but I haven't read anything about running spacers at the rear only.
Wondering if anyone on here is running that kind of set up? If so, any pictures? Does it look odd?
Right now it's really only the rear that bothers me & I'm not super keen on running spacers at the front because of the change in steering geometry.
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Our FL Yeti Outdoor has ISOFIX. We have a Reacro Monza Nova 2 Seatfix and a Recaro Zero.1 for our little ones, and both seats fit absolutely fine. I've not noticed anything unusual about the ISOFIX points compared to other cars.
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Well that's me told 😂
Thanks everyone
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This was my first thought, but:
- I'm sure the usual water trickle from A/C is normally towards the front of the engine bay, isn't it? Pretty sure there's no A/C components in the region of the driver's footwell although happy to be proved wrong!
- Car had been sat for at least an hour and I'd have expected any A/C water to have evaporated
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Got back to the car this evening to find a puddle of liquid. Checked, it's definitely just water so not super worried.
But I am curious where it could have come from. It was further back than the engine - approx under the driver's footwell.
Our car is an L&K with the pano roof - would this be drain water?
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1 minute ago, Esseesse200 said:
Are you running spacers there?
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If you don't mind sharing, where are the drain points, what do they look like and how do you clean them?
Wing mirror adjuster broken - can I replace just the motor?
in Skoda Yeti
Posted
Yeti is a 2014 L&K
The adjustment motor / actuator has gone.
Wing mirror is otherwise perfect (the painted cover on the back has no damage and the puddle light, indicator and folding functions are all working).
I can find loads of threads for people replacing smashed off wing mirrors, but nobody talking about broken adjustment actuators.
I'm trying to work out the most cost-effective way to fix it. Can I buy just the actuator / mechanism? Could I get a part from a breaker and swap the motors? Or should I be looking for a whole new mirror?
If anyone has the parts diagram from Skoda, that would be super handy.
Thanks in advance!