DerekU

scottf51 The lengths of my 2024 Skoda Fabia Mk4's wiper blades are 650mm (driver side) and 450mm (passenger side), whereas the lengths of my 2009 Skoda Roomster's wiper blades are 530mm on both the driver and passenger side - so comparing the relative speed of a 'single-action' wipe (ie push down on the stalk once) for the two cars would be a mite inconclusive irrespective of the screen being dry or wet. To side-step this I fully lifted the blades on both cars so there was no 'wiper drag' on the windscreen and the the Roomster's single-action wipe was definitely SLIGHTLY faster than the Fabia's. In both cases the experiment was with each car's ignition on, but without the motor running. I did not think my Fabia's wiper speed was particularly slow and was certainly fast enough for 'single wiping'. When closed, there is no 'play' in my Fabia's oil filler-cap when closed and there is an obvious 'snap' noise when the cap is turned clockwise and becomes fully closed. But my Fabia has the 1.0litre motor, not the 1.5litre, so not really a valid comparison. If the 1.5litre motor's filler-cap should also 'snap' when properly closed, and your car's cap does this, it's reasonable to assume there's nothing wrong with it. (And if it does not 'snap, that could well mean that it is not designed to do this and, in which case, there probably is still nothing wrong with it...)

What criteria are you using to allow you to rate your Fabia Mk4's Goodyear tyres as being "very good, wet or dry", please? My Fabia is also fitted with Goodyear EFFICIENTGRIP PERFORMANCE 195/55 R16 91V XL tyres and - as far as I'm concerned - they are no better or worse than I expect them to be. The only tyres I remember actively disliking were the Continental ones fitted as original equipment to my Skoda Roomster bought new in 2009. Those tyres would cause the car to 'tram-line' noticeably on uneven road surfaces and I put this down to their design having a relatively sharp angle where the tread met the sidewall. Whatever the cause of the uneven-road behaviour, when I replaced the Continentals with Hankooks that had a more rounded tread-to-sidewall profile, the tram-ling stopped and, when I subsequently replaced the Hankooks with (the present) Falken tyres that also have 'rounded' edges, there's was still no tram-lining. My Roomster's Continental, Hankook and Falken tyres were/are all OK in wet or dry weather, but I've never driven the vehicle on a test track or skid-pan to allow we to establish their ultimate capability.

This photo is of my Turner I bought it for £300 from a work colleague (who was the 2nd owner) when it was painted pale yellow and, after I sold it years later, it was repainted lime green. The car began life with a mildly-tuned Ford 1340cc motor that I replaced with a new Ford 1500cc unit and gearbox, with the 1340cc motor ending up in a pal's Cortina. It was still in use in 2000, but I don't know where it is now.

The first car I owned (a 1962 Turner Mk 2 that I bought in 1965) had wire wheels with 'knock on' spinners and wheel-changing was a doddle. The first motorhome I owned (a 1996-built Ford Transit-based Herald Templar I bought in 1999) had wheel-hubs with studs and changing its rear wheels was an absolute nightmare, with owners confidently asserting that it needed two trolley jacks to do it. I found that I could perform the task at home using the standard Transit scissor-jack, but only just and I would not have attempted a roadside change. My many other cars and motorhomes have had wheels using stud or bolt fixings. It's never much bothered me which type - stud or bolt -and I've always been able to carry out an 'emergency' wheel change without much difficulty using the jack supplied with the vehicle. I remember phoning Ford about the Transit-based Herald, complaining that the Ford handbook advised owners to retighten the wheel-nuts securely but provided no torque value. The guy I spoke to said "It's not necessary" and when I said "Why not?", he replied "It's 200Nm and this is clearly stamped into the edge of the wheel-nut's washer". Up to 1991 Transits with twinned rear wheels had left-hand threaded wheel nuts and mechanics unaware of this could snap the studs. Turner cars had fly-off handbrakes and, unless a mechanic or MOT tester was warned about this, the handbrake mechanism could get broken or the MOT test failed. Those were the days...

The pair of 'pins' you bought for £15.98 are described in the ebay advert as "made from high tensile steel and bright zinc plated for durability" so they should be snap-immune and much more durable than the two aluminium-alloy pins I bought for£1.41 from AliExpress. Do you know where your pins were made, please?

The 'pins' I bought via AliExpress are non-magnetic (so presumably not steel) but that's also the case for the tpi-branded pin I provided a photo of in my 1 July posting on Page 4 of this form thread and that cost (from a UK supplier) around £9 for a single pin. The AliExpress pins weigh 67g - much heavier than the tpi-branded pin - and are nicely made (and I'm notoriously fussy). Presumably the tpi-branded and AliExpress pins are castings and, if one wanted a last-forever use-many-time-a-day stainless-steel pin, it would need to be machined and attract a suitably elevated price. The £1.41 overall price was an introductory 'special first AliExpess purchase" offer and (as highlighted above) exactly the same item can be advertised on AliExpress much more expensively. Deleting cookies and/or using a different device can side-step this special-offer limitation. I am near certain that, if I screwed the alloy tpi-branded pin or the alloy AliExpress pin into my Skoda car's hub and than violently hit the end of the pin downwards with a heavy hammer, the pin would snap, whereas a steel pin would just bend - but I'm never going to be hammering my pins. I'm averse to buying 'foreign country' online, but I was prepared to do that in this instance as an experiment and - once I had successfully placed the order - the delivery process was seamless and I was kept fully in the loop. That I shall buy through AliExpress again seems unlikely. (I recently replaced my 2009 Roomster's H7 halogen bulbs with LED equivalents that I bought from a UK-based supplier at an overall cost of £42. The LED bulbs (unsurprisingly) are made in China, but I'd be unprepared to order LED bulbs via AliExpress as their quality and longevity would be much more of an unknown factor.)

As I had a wheel-alignment tool for my Fabia, I thought I should get the same thing for my Roomster and I ended up purchasing the pair of 'pins' shown below These are longer than the pin I keep in my Fabia and their shaft is the same diameter end-to-end (rather than being waisted like my Fabia's pin and thus less likely for the wheel to fall off the pin). They fit OK in the Roomster's (and the Fabia's) hubs and are well made and adequately sturdy. They have a thin smooth clear-plastic sleeve from (on the photo) the left end up to the start of the knurling and carrying the M14x1.5 marking. The sleeve's plastic surface would undoubtedly soon become worn if used 'professionally, but that's immaterial where my own usage is concerned. Ordered through AliExpress on 23 August with an anticipated delivery-date of 3 September and arrived today. E-mail notifications sent to me from when my order was accepted in China and at each stage of the package's journey to my home address. The pins were well packed and clearly labelled and the total cost (including taxes and postage) was £1.41 (that's £0.705 per pin!)

The Fabia Mk 4 Owner's Manual includes a discrete section headed "Boot lid - with manual operation" and I've copied this below. As advised in the postings above, to unlock the boot lid the key-fob's centre button needs to be held down for roughly 2 seconds, and the only indication that unlocking has occurred is that the car's turn-signal lights will flash twice. If the boot lid's handle is then not pressed to release the lid, the boot lid will re-lock after 2 minutes (120 seconds) and the car's turn-signal lights will flash once to confirm this has happened. If the boot lid's handle is pressed to release the lock and lift the lid, when the lid is next shut properly re-locking will take place immediately and the car's turn-signal lights will flashing once as confirmation. There's a risk with this arrangement that an owner might lock the key-fob in the boot and (apparently) a Skoda dealership can program in a delay between the lid's closure and it actually locking. This 'delay' capability was discussed in a 2019 Karoq sub-forum thread (link below) and I assume current Fabias' locking could similarly be tweaked. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/462682-tailgate-lock-delay-question/ My 2009 Roomster's key-fob's centre button operates in the same way, except a) there's a very audible 'clunk' after the button has been held down for a couple of seconds and b) the boot lid then physically disengages from its lock and can now be lifted without pressing its handle. This is more convenient, though it does mean that the boot can only automatically re-lock when the lid is next slammed shut.

Are you referring to a Skoda Fabia Mk IV? The following link suggests that the latest official/possible firmware update for the ("SWING") head-unit may be MU 8742 https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MEN2_EU_SKGPX_P7381L A GOOGLE-search on MEN2_EU_SKGPX_P7381L retrieves this very long BRISKODA forum discussion https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505770-updating-swing-radio-software/ and there's a video here that MIGHT help... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I5Lnwc1w5c

It wasn't advice, just a statement... Mu understanding of the term "ECO" when tyre manufacturers apply it to their products is that it does not indicate a tyre that is optimised for fuel economy, but that it had been made from 'sustainable' materials. Obviously I don't know what tyre-related expertise you have, but the RAC's advice on 'eco' tyres is here https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/tyres/green-tyres-how-are-they-different/

As you will be buying a Fabia SE L (according to the the Skoda website) the tyres will have a 195/55 R16 91V XL specification with three make/pattern possibilities Continental ECOCONTACT 6 (Fuel efficiency class A/Wet grip class B ) Goodyear EFFICIENTGRIP PERFORMANCE (Fuel efficiency class A/Wet grip class B ) Bridgestone TURANZA ECO (Fuel efficiency class A/Wet grip class A)

Michelin's advice on summer, winter and all-season tyres can be read here https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/choose-tyres/summer-winter-all-season-tyres If you will be getting a Monte Carlo model with the 1.5litre motor, according to Skoda's website the OE tyres for 17"-diameter wheels will be 215/45 R17 size and either Kumho Ecsta PS 71 (Wet Grip A ) or Bridgestone TURANZA Eco (Wet Grip B ). The optional 18"-diameter wheels are shod with 215/40 R18 Continental ContiSportContact 5 (Wet Grip A ). Living in central England for most of my life, I've never found any persuasive reason to swap the 'summer' tyres fitted as original equipment to my new vehicles for 'all season' equivalents when it came time to change those tyres. In the rare spells of very cold winter weather over the years I would have liked to have had 'full winter' tyres fitted, but, If I planned to drive regularly in such conditions, I would not be choosing a Fabia in which to do it. Good luck with your quest for "...a decent set of tyres fitted rather than those Eco tyres which don't offer the best grip in the UK climate.". There are plenty of 'best tyre' reviews online, but my own opinion is that you'd be wasting your money.

The current range of Fabia cars marketed in the UK can have as original equipment (OE) ) tyres made by Bridgestone , Continental, Goodyear or Kumho. For Fabias with 15"-diameter wheels the OE tyres may be Kumho Ecowing ES31 185/65 R15 and for Fabias with 17"-diameter wheels the OE tyres may be Kumho Ecsta PS71 215/45 R17. If a Fabia has 16"-diameter or 18"-diameter wheels, Kumho tyres are not fitted as OE.

50 years ago (when I was unmarried and mechanically reckless with my cars) I used to DIY significant alterations, though always relating to performance not looks. I well recall fitting stronger springs (that buckled the spring compressors) and adjustable Spax damper-units to a Reliant Scimitar GTE that had a rare 'blow-through' turbo conversion. The result was a car that had as much suspension movement as a skateboard, was too fast for the brakes, was positively lethal on wet roads and, as there was no power-assisted steering, every journey was like a visit to the gym. I'm sure I thought it was wonderful at the time...

Hello everyone, I have a DSG box with a steering wheel without paddles, is it possible to change the steering wheel to obtain them and therefore have my gear change on the steering wheel? Thanks in advance ............................................................................................................................................................................................. This 2022 Skoda press release claimed that the Fabia Mk IV Monte Carlo model with DSG transmission would have paddle-shifters on the steering wheel. https://skodamedia.com/en-gb/releases/1299 However, every relevant online comment has highlighted that UK-marketed Fabia Mk IV Monte Carlo cars (or any other UK-marketed Fabia Mk IV model) do NOT have paddles. This 2020 forum entry mentioned that an Octavia VRS steering-wheel with paddles had been successfully fitted to a Fabia Mk III https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479919-octavia-vrs-steering-wheel-retrofit-onto-fabia-mk-iii/#comment-5388632 so it MIGHT be possible to do the same with a Fabia Mk IV. ............................................................................................................................................................................................. Ce communiqué de presse de Skoda de 2022 affirmait que le modèle Fabia Mk IV Monte Carlo avec transmission DSG aurait des palettes de changement de vitesse sur le volant. https://skodamedia.com/en-gb/releases/1299 Cependant, tous les commentaires en ligne pertinents ont souligné que les voitures Fabia Mk IV Monte Carlo commercialisées au Royaume-Uni (ou tout autre modèle Fabia Mk IV commercialisées au Royaume-Uni) n'ont PAS de palettes. Cette entrée de forum de 2020 mentionnait qu'un volant Octavia VRS avec palettes avait été installé avec succès sur une Fabia Mk III https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479919-octavia-vrs-steering-wheel-retrofit-onto-fabia-mk-iii/#comment-5388632 il POURRAIT donc être possible de faire la même chose avec une Fabia Mk IV.

The VAG Part Number for my Fabia's jack is 2Q0 011 031 It is labelled as having a 900kg maximum lifting capacity and being appropriate for the following vehicles VW Polo (>2018) SEAT Ibiza (>2018) Audi A1 (>2019 Skoda Scala (>2020) Skoda Fabia (>2021) It's tip-to-tip overall length is 39cm and - as that length will relate directly to the jack's maximum lift-height - if you buy a different jack you'll need to check that its overall length is at least as long. As I've said before, buying the VAG jack is not cheap - but this 'once used' secondhand jack is not unreasonable at £28 and at least it's the genuine article with the correct crank handle. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276496209179

It's the former... At the jacking-points, the bottom of the pronounced reinforced metal seam just sits in the Skoda jack's quite shallow 'groove' and, consequently, all the load is born through the seam/groove connection.

I THINK the VAG Part Number for the jack that's provided if one chooses the spare-wheel option + tools is 2Q0011031E and is as shown in the photos above. The 'genuine' jack is certainly not cheap (and one need to check that the folding winding-handle is included as I'm pretty sure that has its own Part Number). Much cheaper scissor jacks (with equivalent or higher lifting capacity) are widely advertised, but the top of many of these has a slotted or flat 'plate' (examples on link below) rather than the central 'groove'. https://www.thewheelshop.co.uk/product-category/accesories/ This might suit you as it's 'groovy', plus a wheel-brace is included. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wheels-Bits-Universal-Include-Hatchback/dp/B07FB4TC19

On my 2024-built Fabia Mk 4, the 2-part fitting that secures the spare-wheel to the floor of the wheel-well in the boot is marked 2G0.803.899 A on the bottom of the threaded upright section. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/2g0803899a-bolt-for-mounting-the-spare-wheel-skoda-41623.html Similar-looking fittings are advertised that have a different final letter (and at very different asking-prices) but I've no idea whether the final letter has significance.

I highlighted the shallowness of the jack's 'groove' in this other thread. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/525354-jacking-pads-for-fabia-scissor-jack/#comment-5871417

As a forum moderator for many years my view is that, if someone asks a question that elicits (sensible) responses, it's plain bad manners not to reply. I'm not a great fan of the 'like' button, but at least using it acknowledges that the enquirer has read the response(s) and appreciates the effort made.

The same enquiry was made on the Fabia Mk IV forum on 28 June 2024 and resulted in a reasonable number of responses. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/524652-is-the-fabia-a-good-or-bad-car-to-own/#comment-5863266 (The originator of the 'reliability' enquiries "mikcatta" has not visited the BRISKODA forums since 8 July 2024, so further comments on either thread are unlikely to be worthwhile.)

This Wikipedia entry relates to TPMS https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire-pressure_monitoring_system The "United States" section includes the statement below that may explain why indirect TPMS (certainly older versions of indirect TPMS) can be slow to provide warnings of tyre-pressure loss. The final rule requires that the driver be given a warning when tire pressure is 25 percent or more below the vehicle manufacturer's recommended cold tire inflation pressure (placard pressure) for one to four tires. A while back, the day before I was due to drive several hundred miles mostly on UK motorways, I checked over our Skoda Roomster and, discovering that the pressure in one of the front tyres was 26psi rather than the 32psi in the other three tyres, a quick inspection revealed a screw embedded in the tread. There had been no warnings from the Roomster's indirect TPMS, but If an up-to-25% reduction is 'allowable' before a warning is issued, the 32psi reduction to 26psi would have (just) been acceptable. I'm a moderator on a motorhome-related UK forum with over 23k postings to my name. UK motorhome owners have something of an obsession with tyres and tyre pressures as the recommended tyre inflation-pressures are generally high (70-80psi) and, if the motorhome is light or lightly loaded, the resultant ride quality can be bone-shakingly harsh. Historically, It's been common practice for UK motorhome owners to take their vehicle to a weigh-bridge and, based on the measured axle-loadings, reduce the tyre pressures accordingly after taking advice from the tyres' manufacturer. This was fine until direct TPMS began to be fitted as standard to most new UK motorhomes, when it became evident that even a small downwards alteration (say 0.5%) from the recommended high pressures that had been factory-input to the TPMS would trigger low-pressure warnings. So the moral of this tale is that, if a driver wants a system that will provide pressure-drop warnings earlier rather than later, direct TPMS is the better option.

I don't know which design of jack your 2015 Skoda Fabia has, but if its the type that was provided historically as standard with VAG cars (and with my 2009 Roomster), it will be unsuitable for a Fabia Mk 4. My Roomster does not have a scissor jack: it has a jack with an integrated 'fold-up' operating-handle as shown in the image below. It's very neat and usable with cars that have an under-chassis reinforced metal seam (to which the jack attaches) fairly close to the car's outer side. That's where the seam is on my Roomster and I could also use the Roomster's jack to raise my 2021 Hyundai i20 (that came without a jack) as the i20's metal seam was similarly positioned. However, the Fabia Mk 4's reinforced metal seam is much further in from the car's outer side, making it impossible to raise a Fabia Mk 4 with the Roomster's jack as, when the jack's head is beneath the Fabia's metal seam, the integrated handle cannot be rotated. This is why a Fabia Mk 4's OE jack is the scissor type with a long separate 2-section operating handle (image below) that allows the jack to be positioned under the metal seam and the handle to then be turned. It's not penny-pinching that defines which of the two designs of jack are provided as OE - it's where the seam is.

My understanding was that VAG vehicles generally do not have 'direct' TPMS (where inflation-pressure sensors are fitted to the base of each tyre valve) but have, instead, 'indirect' TPMS that exploits the vehicle's ABS and (basically) compares the rotational speed of each road-wheel against an overall setting. Direct TPMS permits actual tyre pressures to be displayed. Indirect TPMS does not, but may be able to indicate which wheel(s) there's a problem with. If a vehicle has direct TPMS, there is normally no driver-operable RESET facility. If a vehicle has indirect TPMS, there will be a driver-operable RESET capability. The two TPMS types are explained here https://www.schradertpms.com/en-gb/driver-education/direct-tpms-versus-indirect-tpms Unsurprisingly Schrader 'likes' direct TPMS as the company has a vested interest. Personally, I 'like' indirect TPMS, as there are no tyre-valve sensors, but I fully recognise this system's limitations. In the past, where a vehicle has not had TPMS, I've used TyreSafe products https://www.tyresafe.org/the-checks/ This involves fitting a sensor to the top of each tyre valve and allow inflation-pressure data to be read on a small display-screen in the cab.