tocsa135ls

One thing bugs me, (this may concern you): I'm in the process of converting my carbed ride to SPI. Got a flywheel (unknown, told it was off a Felicia), got the throttle body from a Golf Mk3, the wiring loom, sensors, intake, headers from a Felicia, and a computer for a SPI Favorit. (OK, this was to keep is as cheap as possible, with all this the cost is still under €100) I made the necessary changes to the wiring (added relay for fuel pump, also throttle body power and O2 sensor heat, added the necessary fuses) Problem: the car had VERY rough idle, it revved up to 1600, then died almost down to 400, then again up to 1600. VAG-COM shows "000 000 000" in all Measurement Blocks when the dying occurs. I put the injector together on a bench, used a waveform generator, and found no obvious traces of fault, the injector is clicking all right, there is spark, and varying the frequency makes the difference, the injector clicks faster, etc. What I found: the computer only gives "000 000 000" readings when the engine revs go over 6200 (limiter, obviously). But how can that happen on an engine that is barely revving 1600? Then it dawned on me: are the flywheels for the SPI and the MPI engine different? Could I have an MPI flywheel? (hey, I won't fight getting an MPI system on it, I won't pull the engine again to swap the flyweel, that's for sure :-)

The Haynes manual is a must have if you don't have some experience working with engines. I did the chain swap on my '94 Favorit with some niggles, here it is in rough points: - buy the following things with the new chain (god I hope I write the names correctly): new oil, oil filter, drive belt for the water pump and the alternator, oil pan seal, timing chain cover seal, and a crank pulley seal (it goes into the timing chain cover) - warm up the engine, than drain oil, no need to let it drip, you're gonna take the pan off anyway - while oil is flowing out, loosen the alternator, and take the belt off the engine (if you have A/C, there's the A/C compressor to loosen, and another belt to take off) - take the oil pan off (about 12 screws if I remember correctly) - if yours has a distributor (supposedly not, it should be an MPi engine) note the wires position, and also the distributor housing position in relation to the cam cover, and also the rotor position - loosen the big nut that holds the crank pulley (air tools are veeeeery useful!) - pull out the crank pulley (the key should not fall out with it, if it does, pay attention, don't lose it) - loosen the screws around the cam cover (i think two are simple slotted screws, the rest hex-head) and take the cover off (careful, the complete oil pump+pickup assy comes with it) - now you can see your old chain+sprockets - in my experience it starts to make a sound when you can move the lower part of it about 1/3 inch with finger pressure . there is a securing washer holding the sprocket on the camshaft, you have to bend it back, off the screw, then loosen the screw, so you can take the washer off Next two steps critical, really buy a Haynes manual, or get a friend who knows engines. - pull the old chain with the sprockets off the shafts - the new chain shoud be put on the shafts in a certain position (the marks on the sprockets facing you should be both on the upper side, with 12 chain links between them) - loosen all the spark plugs, and put the crank pulley back, and give the engine two complete revolutions - it should not stick, clunk, grind, or any of that, and at the end, the two marks on the sprockets should be in their original position - well... from here back is fairly easy, just put everything back in order, change the oil filter, torque everything back to spec, fill it with oil, tighten the spark plugs back, and try to start it, should fire up just fine with no noise at all As a finishing step I checked my valve clearances too. My next 'big' job is to change my cam followers, as with the now silent chain and point-on clearances I still hear some tapping sounds

Almost forgot to post pictures. This was about a year ago on a trip to Slovakia for a few parts, and hey! Found an estate version of my ride! It even has the factory alloys and everything... Mine is rolling on the standard Felicia rims with Favorit hubcaps, an awesome combination imho. Will post pictures of the 14" alloys soon.

Hi Everyone! My ride is a 1994 Favorit Blackline. I call it the 'Junkyard Find', just because I bought it from a Skoda parts dealer/wrecker. Two years ago it cost me around €800 (to put that in perspective: a bad Golf MkI or a really bad Golf Mk3 cost that much). The previous owner ha the front suspension rebuilt with new bushings, brakes, struts, bearings. After that he noticed some fairly bad rust around the shock towers, and after getting a quote he decided to instead finance a new Fabia. For whatever reason he didn't want to sell the old girl, so it spent a year sitting, then he took it to the wreckers. I spotted it there, almost complete, only the alloys were missing. It had power locks, front power windows, sunroof, 'intelligent' intermittent wipers, tinted glass. I got the chassis rust fixed for about €150, sprayed it over with etch primer and 3 layers of rattlecan black. I couldn't find the original wheels for it, so instead the 13's it is now sitting on 14" alloys (same 5-spoke Ronal, just bigger) IMHO it even looks better with the skinnier tires (175/60). When I bought it, it had MOT for a year, 75k on the clock. Since the two years it is now up to 97k, I had to replace the exhaust system from the cat back, and a lots of blown bulbs in the switches were replaced with green LEDs. I swapped the factory 'glow-wire' indicator relay for the semiconductor-controlled one from a Felicia (standard 3-prong Bosch). The car also has Felicia seating now. The car missed the factory Blaupunkt stereo (I didn't), it now has a Grundig Skoda MS202 from a Fabia in it, - very nice sound. Current project is to fit the injector from a Felicia 1.3 to it (for the love of god I couldn't figure out how they managed to sell the carb version, but nonetheless, they could...) It is nearing completion, but I will ask a fairly big question in the tech section, I suspect (_very_ rough idle). As for myself, not a wrench monkey, but I know my way around them, much better with electronics (I used to sell custom electronic ignition modules for a living, and I can still repair stuff the friends bring over "It stopped with smoke pouring out so I fitted a bigger fuse..." As for now I work for a telco company as a linux systems specialist. Greetings from Hungary!