usico
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Posts posted by usico
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fake fake fake fake......
Too damn right!
Of course the new one will have nice short overhangs etc, it may even have a V6 though a (lighter and that's the point) 1.8T would be better. Probably be an FSI unit.
But that snout! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
Ye gods, it's even uglier than a Cayenne. Now that's saying something...
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jono,
The only trimming is a bit of metal work in the door proper - when you take out the OE speakers, you need to remove the circular peice of foam which will be right in front of you. The metal work is a bracket that holds the front window channel in place - the top of the channel needs to be cut off with some tin snips. DO NOT try and whack it or bend it as it may put the window channel out of alignment!
The door cards (or trims) need to be loosened to get the crossovers in - first, remove the tweeter housing by gently pulling on it. Unplug the connector to the tweeter.
Next, pull the electric window/mirror switch assembly out: pull the door handle back and it should come away fairly easily. The phillips screw behind it needs to come out. don't worry if it drops down the door card, it will come out when you loosen it later. That whole little section just heeds lifting slightly to enable the door card to come away later.
Next are the torx screws - front, rear and bottom of the trim. With these out, it's possible to release the door card enough to slide in the crossovers and wiring.
To get the tweeters in the factory mount: prise the original tweeters gently with a flat bladed screwdriver - it should just pop out. Next, the grille needs to come off the Infinity tweeter. More caeful use of aforementioned screwdriver! The infinity will slot in but a bit of glue/mastic across the back just to hold it in place would help.
You wire the tweets and woofers direct to the crossover
(The crossovers have screw terminals, so no soldering required! ) and then wire the feed from the HU via the OE lead. Autoleads make an adapter plug (PC2-805,
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Infinty CS6500's fit but the lower window channel bracket needs a little "fettling" with tin snips to fit the magnets in.
Crossovers fit behind the door cards (just).
Not sure of the efficiency of the Alpines - most decent components only come into their own when driven by a seperate amp
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Don't forget as well that you can set the level of the sub independently to suit your taste.
Good point. And most important. Kenny, can you control the level of the sub output from your HU? If you can, you've nothing to worry about!
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I would change the fronts first. The problem with adding a sub onto an other wise standard unit is that it then becomes all about bass (not necessarily a bad thing
) BUT it's good bye to midrange if you're not careful. If you're thinking of going the sub route eventually, it has to be components up front, probably driven by a seperate amp - most components (like my Infinity CS6500's) just don't get enough power from HU amps - even supposedly "powerful" ones. I've seen people complain about sticking better speakers in and being disappointed by the result - stick 'em on the end of a decent amp and then see (or hear!)
If you'r not too bothered about massive bass, rob's solution should be fine - most two ways need less amplification so compliment a HU amp much better.
The CS6500's fit in with little bother - the tweeters go straight in to the factory hole when you've (gently) prised the mesh of the top - the wookers need the top of the window cannel stay trimming down half an inch to get the magnet in. The crossovers will even slide behind the door cards art the front!
Slope? more like free fall!
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Thanks Dr, Z, just what I was trying to say! :cheers:
As I uderstand it, the low pass will only work with an external amp. So as Jason says, the easiest (cheapest) way is to run the LPF (is labelled sub?) via RCA to an amp to run the sub, the other speakers can be run off the internal amp, in which case, just use the supplied crossovers with the components.
I've got an Alpine 7842, which has 3 pre-outs (front rear and non-fading sub) that run to two amps - a 2 channel for the rears and a more powerful 4 channel for the fronts and sub - the benefit of that being the other speakers get a chance too keep up with the sub! :speaker:
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Jono,
What HU have you got? I assume the LPF will do the "sub" frequencies and the HPF will do the rest - i.e mid to high - can you dial in different frequencies on the HU?
AS for the squeakers, all components should have some king of crossover, but the cheaper ones tend to be pretty basic - something like Infinity Kappas have two choices for the high frequecies sent to the tweeter.And of course a chuffing great crossover box to stuff somewhere you haven't got space...
Better to use the crossovers with the speakers - even if you send just the "high" frequency signal to them, the crossover will split it down further, to "mid" and "high". Are you following this? :confused:
At the other end of the scale, get seperate amps for sub, kid and tweets and set the crossover on each.
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Is it more noticeable first thing in the morning (especially after a cold, damp night)
Mike - insofar as the brakes are cold, yes but it seems to be the same even if the car has been in the garage... perhaps the only answer is to get the dealer to reface the pads...
Could also try braking harder!
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Hi guys
It's been noisy from new Techi and hasn't been much different from the rain. Car normally lives in the garage too but i'ts been outside a lot in the rain recently so seems to be unaffected by weather..
I'll try braking harder Silve! I forgot to say that when the brakes are nice and hot they are fine. No complaints about the performance of them though.
Damn! I'll just have to drive harder!
Simon
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But is the same type of green? Or are they two clashing types of green?
Er, if my slightly older Alpine is anything to go by Dutch, they are slightly different. :color:
But as long as you don't stare at it too long, you (hardly) ever notice!
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Hi folks
My brakes seem to "grauch" at slow speed, especilly when cold. Pads and discs standard, just tuned 7K miles (since July).
Hand brake needs a bit of a tug, so will get that sorted, anybody else had "The Graunch?"
Cheers
Simon
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Originally posted by ecklad in this post
Wot do U mean??????????DAZ MODE????
Remeber the TV ads for washing powder? OK, a little obscure, I grant you!
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Jason,
I echo Shugz - great service from Power Bulbs and a nice, bluer kind of white light, which you'll like.. Sorry went into DAZ mode
Gosh 50 posts... must exit stage left to order slippery slope.
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Yeah, second spoiler not so bad if you squint and for get those luuverly silver bits. And those light cluster covers - yummee!
First spoiler - there's some lad with a B reg escort 1.4 with one of those round here...
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LOL!
.. and rumour has it he er.. borrowed that concept from one Hans Ledwinka, the well known Czech engineer. Allegedly.
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I think it is the manufacurer's who are culpable here - in the Cayenne especially, they are providing answers for questions that nobody asked.
Choice and innovation are great of course - witness the Citroen Pluriel - but the "me too" mentality is all getting a little silly - there are even rumours of a Jaguar SUV. Arrgh!!!
As for what Dr. Porsche would think of that great hulk, God only knows. If it were me, I'd be spinning in my grave...
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Originally posted by FightingDiva in this post
The Touareng is a great SUV, it's in the same class as the Merc ML-series aswell as the BMW X5-series.
FD
Sorry FD, I just don't like SUV's! If you had as many cluttering up the place as we do here you may agree!
And just don't get me started on the Cayenne!!
Cheers
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Excellent - a return to the innovative ideas from the Skoda of (very) old.
Just pray they go this way as opposed to some silly Toerag look-a-like...
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Crowthorne - on the TRL site
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Originally posted by Kentish in this post
When I had locked out my Syphony unit and was waiting for the dealer to get me the code, I invested in a pair of Kenwood removing tools ( strip of metal about 4 mm wide) purchased from Halfords just in case they worked.....guess what they did.
Cheers
Now I'm getting spoilt for choice! A scientific experimentation beckons! :mircowave
Progress will be reported!
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Originally posted by big k in this post
hammer who mentioned a hammer don't set me off the proper tool is a t1005 all you need is a piece of metal about 3-4 mm wide stick in slots and away you go
Do I have to hammer them in???
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Think I'll try the picture hooks - always get a sore thumb from them so at last, a use for them. Actually, usually get a sore thumb from a sledgehammer so perhaps....
Nice one!:cheers:
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OK, this is probably an old chestnut but an hour searching the forums is just tooo much:o
Anybody know what (if any) manufacturer's removal tools will work on a Symphony? The VW ones look as though they might - any ideas?
Long round trip to a dealer for me and anyway, rather have access to the right tools all the time!
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Paul
Don't know if the HU has pre-outs. If not, probably best to change for two reasons: a new HU may have better amplification anyway but if you're thinking amps then go for a HU with (at least) 2 preouts.
It's still possible to get amps that will take a speaker input instead of a proper line out but it's a compromise. At least if you fitted a higher power HU with pre - outs, you've got the option later on...
Simon
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Demisting
in General Maintenance
Posted
I'll third that. As anexperiment, clean one half, wait until it mists up. That will tell you if it's the climate or the screen...