ryo hazuki

Hi All, My octavia is suffering from the usual laquer problems on the front and rear badge. Has anybody sucessfully replaced these with the new style badges? If so I'd really appreciate part numbers so I can do the same!

Well its gotten two oil changes with 10w40, both 10,000 miles apart. Thats all I really have documentation for. Im in ireland so I dont know if that information would be any use to you.

Having just purchased a 07 VRS TDI PD I was shocked too see that the skoda dealer had been using 10w40 part synthetic in previous services! First service was done by a different dealer and used the proper stuff at a price of €65. All other services were with 10w40 at a price of around €30. Rang up the offending dealer and they said its acceptable to use this, which I know is bull.. Rang a few other dealers and they have said it has to be 5w30 Fully synth meeting 507.00 only, as I knew anyway.. I've emailed skodas head office and regional office to see what they say about the situation.. Anyone else have a similar experience?

WD40 Works quite well and does no harm to paint work. Turtle wax do a bug and tar remover in a spray bottle, foams up, leave for ten minutes and wipe/fingernail away.

Certainly, Trying to get the parrot blue box and all associated wiring hidden away with enough room for the radio to go back in can be tricky. I seem to recall I had to remove a small section of the inner plastic cage that surrounds the radio, then I had plenty of room. Used a large pliers and kept bending it till it broke.

I cant help you with a guide but I can tell you its tight for room. You may have to remove some of the plastic cage inside but it should be ok. To remove the radio there are 4 small plastic inserts you remove to reveal torx screws. As regards the key issue, get a multimeter and keep checking each fuse for power that switches off with the key, then take some power from that.. It has to say goodbye on the screen or else it aint working right. As regards the wiring, I believe you need SOT-076. The MFD should be unaffected. Just remember to remove the two/one small plugs and insert them into the new quadlock. Alternatively Halfords are selling the Mki9200 for €249 including fitting. Hope this was some help

Check it out Sounds like a bargain but its probably some dude making them in his shed..

Spare wheel well full of water this morning.. Noticed I had damp seats since yesterday and now ive found this.. It was about 3/4 way full! Let it all out through a bung at the bottom.. The water must have been splashing forward because my rear seats are wet and even the rear floor is wet.. Now i need to locate the source of this leak.. The car is under two years old and needless to say im pretty disgusted to put it mildly! Has anyone else experienced this issue? Ive found one other similar story but no solution..

Thanks for the quick reply. Im trying to get to grips with whats going on here.. The maf actual graph seems to be working ok however the maf specified just stays at 850. Any other guides I can find to this problem show a good maf has the specified moving in tandem with the actual. And a bad maf is the exact opposite of this. The actual keeps pretty constant. Unless this is part of the remap? Any input is greatly appreciated!

MAF Specified staying at A constant level all the time? Any Ideas what this means? Its a 130bhp remapped fabia II

I only have VAG-COM for my older octavia so im using a program called VAG Commander. My vag-com cable doesn't support can-bus...

This is all I have. attached as a picture Also forgot to mention the air con stopped working also! Its quite bizarre..

41F5 Vehicle speed signal plausibility 4664 Control unit incorrect coding Theses codes magically appeared along with a check engine light after an oil change! Anyone have any Ideas? Ive cleared them but they always return... Its a 2007 Octavia 1.4. Regards, Mark