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Here is some more measurements, any advice anybody; ON/OFF ALL OFF VENT OFF VENT ON VENT ON VENT ON A/C A/C OFF A/C ON A/C OFF A/C ON SET TEMPERATURE LO LO LO LO PARKED/DRIVING PARKED PARKED PARKED DRIVING DRIVING Refrigerant pressure 7 bar 7 bar 10,6 bar 6,6 bar 7,2 bar Compressor shut off requirement A/C off or fan control switch in 0 position A/C button off compressor active, no shut off condition is present A/C button off compressor active, no shut off condition is present Compressor current actual value 0,00A 0,00A 0,80 A 0,00A 0,745 A Compressor current specified value 0,00A 0,00A 0,82 A 0,00A 0,820 A Compressor load 0,5 Nm 0,5 Nm 8,5 Nm 0,5 Nm 2,9 Nm Coolant fan activation actual value 10,00% 10,00% 32,00% 10,00% 10,00% Coolant fan activation specified value 0,00% 0,00% 28,40% 0,00% 0,00% Outside air temperature 31,5 C 33,5 C 34,0 C 27,5 C 27,0 C Outside air temperature internally calculated 29,5 C 29,5 C 29,5 C 27,5 C 26,5 C Left front temperature 35,0 C 36,3 C 31,3 C 34,7 C 28,3 C Right front temperature 32,3 C 36,0 C 36,0 C 35,7 C 35,0 C Temperature after evaporator 37,7 C 35,0 C 34,3 C 33,3 C 34,0 C

I went to the holiday few days ago and it was very hot, about 35C outside and about 40 inside. I closed passengers vents but this did`t help. I suspect that evaporetor sensor is not good, anybody knows what the originals sensor worth in ohms should be? On the pics is the actual sensor.

I found out that after 40 minutes of waiting...

Hello, is it safe to ignore the worning on the begining at Reset All Adaptation Values? Can some irreparable damage be done? This should be done with engine off? Is there some option that when car is started DSG start in S mode not in D mode, because in D mode gears changes at 1500 rpm and the car drives in 6th gear at about 1000 rpm?

AC measurements.xlsx

They connect car`s A/C lines to the some device for I think gas filling and extraction and told me that with A/C sistem is everithing OK, good presure and good working temperature.

I wrote that in the first post I was in service and they said that everything is fine with the cooling system and that the problem is probably in the air control wings, I checked all that I can and everything is OK, now I don't have idea what can be wrong.

I recorded this video and you can see that motor for the right flaps is working and the gears are turning, because of that I think that this flap is working, Only if they don't spin in idle and the fault is inside the evaporator housing but I think that's unlikely. Here is the link for video it is to big to post it here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/q2f1cRUi2fu7n11o8 If I will have time I will measure blocks for the right temperature flaps, I am going avay to the weekend.

No help from this hread, this is when heating is not working, nothing to do with A/C.

I have a problem with the cooling in the car, the left side is cooling, and the right side is not, it even heats up a bit. I was in the service because I thought there was no gas, but they told me that the air conditioning was working well and that the pressure and temperature in the pipes was good, and that the air deflector was probably not working well. I checked all the air deflection motors and they all work, I also checked all the temperature sensors, 4 pieces, took them out and tested them and they are all OK. I scanned the climate with VCDS and there are no errors. I measured the temperatures when the A / C is running and it can be seen that there is a high temperature to the right front and behind the evaporator. Does anyone know what the value of the correct sensor after the evaporator is? This is suspicious to me because the measured temperature is 32.3 ° C behind the evaporator and in the right cooling opening. Does anyone know what the problem might be?

Second is like you said, new vacuum servo is working, but I think that pedal is to low, it`s not in line withe clutch it`s about 4-5 cm lower, not like before

Hello all, I'm hoping you can help me identify and solve problem with my Octavia 1.9 TDi, made in 2006. I changed servo brake booster on my car because the pedal was rock hard and I heard hissing sound from the pedal area when pedal was pressed. My old servo brake booster had a catalog number 1J1614105AB and I changed it with new one with catalog number 1J1614106J because the old one can`t be bought any more. After I change it I bleed brakes on the wheels twice and I am not satisfied with brakes now. First, brake pedal is about 4-5 cm lower then before. On idle, all the time hissing sound is heard, when I press the pedal sound disappear then as soon as I let off it returns. Brake are working fine, but pedal is not so hard like it should be (I think), when I hold it depressed it slowly going down. My thinking now is… I will remove master brake cylinder and try to extend shaft which is going from brake booster in to the master brake cylinder, with that I hope I will get pedal in the higher position. I read that it is good to bleed ABS module with VCDS procedure, but my cable is not working now when I need it. What do you think about this?

http://s327.photobucket.com/user/zagreb7/media/motorzvuk_zps992d501a.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0 Does somebody know what is this sound from the motor? Motor is 1.9 TDI ALH, 66 kW, year 2006. 133 tkm. Before 6-7 tkm I changed timing belt, water pump and all the rollers, serpentine belt and alternator pulley, VCDS does`t show any error code and all seems to be working normally. The video is on link above, I can`t attach video in this topic (not permitted) don`t know why? Thanks.

It´s the normal light, this is the same lights like you turn it on with the switch, it seems it is some special wiring, and different switch, does somebody have link for the wiring or for the light switch pin assignment?

What picture do you want? I can just make picture off light switch, don`t know what else can I show you?