fuzzybunny
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Posts posted by fuzzybunny
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Thanks Guys,
Last Monday when I last used the car I went through several floods around here in Somerset, only slowly in 2nd gear of course and no deeper than 9 inches.
The next day was when the clutch wouldn't disengage, so I wonder if water had caused the problem but not sure how?
Just before I went away for a few days , I tried one of the suggestions above.
I started the engine to warm it up, turned off the engine, put into 2nd gear and started the engine with the clutch depressed.
The car jumped forward for a few yards, then I braked to stop it going onto next door's hedge, (they wouldn't like that).
Made no difference though, the clutch was still stuck.
I have been away for a few days, back now and just tried it and 'hey presto' everything is back to normal, drove it up and down the road so hopefully problem solved.
Taking her in for the MoT on Tuesday, so hopefully all OK for then.
Thanks again, guys.
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Thanks everyone, I'll try what you suggest and let you know, I'm away from home at the mo so back on Monday. Cheers
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4 hours ago, gumdrop said:
What is the milage? and typical usage?
11 years old, 82,000 but now only down to 2-3k a year
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Hi All,
Car was driving fine on Monday but tried to drive off today and despite depressing clutch I couldn't get it into gear.
Clutch felt fine and depressing it allowed me to start the engine as normal but seems it wasnt disengaging.
Does this mean a clutch failure?
Thanks
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Thanks for this, I have the 170 as well, all OK so far after 80,000 miles.
Will keep a look out.
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Hi All,
So in the end it was £240 for rear discs and pads.
Sadly, the handbrake caliper and cables all needed replacement as well, so the total cost was £402.Plus side is a year's MOT and vastly improved brakes and handbrake.
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Thanks Guys,
I have tried hard braking but looking at the disks there is only a half inch wide clear part of the disc, the rest is rust, cant seem to remove it.
Quite dramatic, really not sure how it got so bad.
My local garage who did the MOT, (who I trust), have quoted around £160 to replace the rear discs.
They can do that and retest before Xmas so all good.
Probably pay extra for pads at the same time.
Cheers
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Thanks Guys for the advice.
My Local Škoda dealer in Yeovil quoted me £311.53.
Except they are fully booked up till 16th January, (doh!), and my MOT expires on the 1st.
I'll have a shop around.
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Hi All,
Just failed the MOT first time after 8 years, so can't complain with 76k on the clock.,
Rear brakes disk were quite rusty, so fair enough.
Anyone had theirs replaced along with new pads, if so any idea of cost at an independent not a Skoda dealer.
Cheers
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Hi All,
Just have my 4x4 MoT done last week on a rolling road rig and passed OK
I didn't see it done, (and I know I should have asked, doh!), but I'm assuming they use a similar system to this one in the video.
They did quote the figures for front a rear brakes so assuming they couldn't have used a Tapley.
Hope this helps, Cheers
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2 hours ago, Llanigraham said:
11.8 volts would signify a battery on it's last legs!
Yes you are right, checked this morning and the Varta battery indicator is now showing a fault. (see pic)
Booked in this week for a new battery.
Good to hear from you Llanigraham, think you have been on this forum for longer than me and that's 10 years!
Cheers,
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1 hour ago, KenONeill said:
The "Engine Warning Light" is NOT the same thing as the "Oil Pressure Light". So I have no idea why you would check the oil level rather than fault codes.
I had just checked the oil level the day before so knew it was OK. Is there an easy way to check fault codes without any kit?
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16 hours ago, RicardoM said:
The main question is: how did they check the battery is OK? Just checked the voltage on it with engine running? If yes, that is equal to zero. For now the main suspect is the battery (is it as old as the car?) or an aftermarket electrical device that draws current while standing. Ten days means nothing for a car without parasitic electrical loads. Of course, a check engine light could mean a lot of things but it is well known that an old battery can set odd warnings. It is mandatory to read the stored errors and (most importantly) interpret them correctly. Bottom line is that based only on information provided nobody can tell what problem is with the car.
Thanks for this. The battery was checked with a voltmeter think it was 11.8 when it was nearly flat and was showing 14 .5 when the engine was running and charging. I think you are right though it's probably a poor battery its the same age as the car. Can I check fault codes myself easily?
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Hi All,
Yeti wouldn't start today, battery flat and I had lent out my jump leads (doh!) so called out the home start and they started it straight away with a power pack.
they checked the battery and found it OK and the alternator was charging OK but the car has been left for 10 days (it has done 71,000 miles)
So as advised let it run for 20 mins then took it on a 40 mile round trip.
Battery was charging OK as far as I could tell but the engine warning light came on.
Water temp was 90C and oil temp 95C and the oil level was fine so not sure why it came on.
Any ideas what it might be?
Sounds like I need to take it to Skoda for a connection to their diagnostics.
Happy days!
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many thanks penguin 17 that's really helpful.
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19 minutes ago, Stubod said:
...alloy wheels are funny things. Its to do with alloy and there is not a lot you can do about it . Some seem to last ages, others I have known (friends Merc), started to go after about 18 months. I doubt if any manufacturer will warrant alloys much beyond 12 months and it's nothing to do with how well you clean / protect them either as it actually starts "in" the alloy. Only option really is to get them removed and go to one of the many firms that specialise in re-doing them. I think they normally charge around £50 per wheel.
thanks for that didn't realise the alloys were so crap.
£50 per wheel ain't so bad to refurbish, do they strip them, presumably they want them with the tyres off?
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Thanks Urrell, no haven't touched the centre caps they are original.
Would you expect them to look more knackered at 6 years?
Cheers, David
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Hi All,
Yeti is into its 6th year now and over the last few month have noticed corrosion on the Annupurna alloys, it seems to bubble up under the lacquer right in the centre.
Happening to various degrees on all wheels, see the attached pic.
Anyone else experienced this or any advice on what to do about it.
Presuming anti corrosion warranty excludes alloys!
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Hi All,
My yeti is 5.5 years old now with 69,000 on the clock. vehicle status says service due in 5,500.
Seems a way off, should I be thinking of getting the cam belt changed, seem to recall it should be done at 60k.
Or do I just follow the status message and wait another 5,000.
My miles are mostly motorway and rural.
Cheers, David
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A most interesting video.
So the software fix not only removes the code that fools testing apparatus but actually does try to reduce NOx by making the EGR valve work harder by sending more exhaust gas back into the inlet which reduces combustion temperatures which supposedly reduces NOx.
But according to the video it is pretty much ineffective at doing this and NOx remain unchanged.
Even worse of course is when the EGR valve is already sooted up it cant work any harder and this leads to premature failure.
Blimey how can VW be so incompetent?
66,000 miles in my Yeti so my EGR probably has a bit of soot and there is no way I am having the fix!
Seems the only effective way to reduce NOx is with chemical exhaust treatments like AdBlu which is the way most Euro 6 Vehicles have gone.
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So sorry to here so many guys having problems with the fix.
From what I have read it seems to be down to issue with the EGR valve that sends exhaust gas back into the fuel inlet to reduce combustion temperatures which reduces NOx emissions.
Apparently the EGR valve can get clogged up and fail regularly.
That is probably an over simplification on my part but there is no way the f*ckers are getting their hands on my 5 year old yeti.
Yes I have had a few letters inviting me in to have the grease monkeys connect my engine to their big brother diagnostic computer but the answer is Noooooooo!
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Well there is no way I am letting them loose on my Yeti.
It is not a safety fix or a safety recall.
My car sailed through the MoT so is compliant on UK roads.
As it isn't a safety issue it has no effects on my insurance and I don't believe it will make the slightest difference to any trade in.
If I sell it privately might even be more desirable as it hasn't been messed about with by Skoda!
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Hi Everyone,
just got this email from Harkus Sinclair Solicitors
Good Channel 4 report link there.
The VW fix was only ever designed to remove the coding that made the car activate 'cheating mode' during testing.
makes no difference to NOx in normal driving and VW admit to this.
****************************************************
Dear all
The Volkswagen, Audi, Škoda, and SEAT NOx Emissions Group Litigation
For those of you who are interested, Channel 4 last week broadcast an interesting segment on Volkswagen's 'fix' and its effects, which you can watch by clicking here.
Greenpeace also published a story along similar lines, which you can access by clicking here.
I also wanted to thank Chris for agreeing to be interviewed as part of Channel 4's programme, and to ask whether anybody else has had a similar experience. As I have mentioned previously, if there are safety issues which arise as a result of the fix, we will need to raise them with Volkswagen's lawyers.
With best wishes
Damon
Damon Parker
Director
Harcus Sinclair UK Limited
3 Lincoln's Inn Fields
London WC2A 3AA
Tel +44 (0) 20 7164 6176
Fax +44 (0) 20 7539 4703
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3 hours ago, PirateSyrett said:
Totally agree on PP's excellent post, but thought you'd all appreciate knowing that my 170 Yeti's been 'fixed' (VWFS lease car so I don't get a vote!) and it works just fine.
Had it done on the 3rd of April during its service and then covered 2115 miles in the following 7 days down to the French Alps and back. We thrashed the car across France, climbed over 2000' feet each day and on the last day took our Yeti upto an altitude of 2100m (6800ft or over a mile high!) and it worked just the same as normal.
I was soooooo wary after hearing lots of horror stories in the press but thought you'd all appreciate knowing that it's worked just fine for us.
Loving the 170 more each day....
Thanks for the update its good to know your 170 was unaffected, that's reassuring.
Its a great engine and great fun in the yeti.
Clutch wont disengage?
in Skoda Yeti
Posted
Thanks, JR that looks a great suggestion to force the clutch to disengage, my car is 4x4 though so would need to have the rear wheels on a roller I suspect.