Chris Berry

Green Flag man did the same with me. Clonked the starter motor & it came back to life. But when it happened again I checked the wiring & the wire came off in my hand!! Just because it 'looks' ok doesnt mean that it is ok.

Sounds like the 'Loose wire' on the starter. I had exactly the same issue. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264387-dodgy-starter-connection-found/

Boost pipe I would say - normally with a blown turbo you should hear a police siren noie & your car wont start.

Well I’ll love to know why the new lock is kind of 'out of sync'. I have to possible theories: 1. The locks I used weren’t quite right & not 100% compatible (hence the issues) 2. The new lock needs to be 're-programmed' to sync up with the rest of the system. I did a little investigating with regards to this & my local Skoda garage didn’t think that was necessary & I tried VAG Com but when I try selecting the central locking section, the program times out & I can’t access it.

This sounds like the same issue I've got. Year & a half on I've never solved it. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/288683-central-locking-out-of-sync-after-replacing-door-lock/ http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/290009-central-locking-hell-please-anyone-help/

Aaahh brilliant. I've not even tried downloading a new version & the one i've got is about 5 years old.

Yep, thats the one. However, while VCDS is free it wont work with Windows 7 64bit (not that i could find anyway). One method around this is to use Windows XP Mode on Windows 7 & that works fine. Theres no special requirements if you already have a laptop with Windows XP.

ooh.. (btw, wife & 2 kids)

Probably the only way to check the fault is with VCDS (VAG Com). btw, what 'light' is it? Is it the engine light like this... https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+engine+light&safe=off&biw=1675&bih=1089&tbm=isch&imgil=VllYYR536tP7nM%253A%253BmbeiEljUlyH1UM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.2carpros.com%25252Fquestions%25252Fvolkswagen-jetta-2003-volkswagen-jetta-engine-light--5&source=iu&pf=m&fir=VllYYR536tP7nM%253A%252CmbeiEljUlyH1UM%252C_&usg=__k_0RCvJ-qPRR8A1n_i0qAEezA_g%3D&ved=0CD0Qyjc&ei=Ac2qVKapKIG2OrGngIgK#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=VllYYR536tP7nM%253A%3BmbeiEljUlyH1UM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.2carpros.com%252Fforum%252Fautomotive_pictures%252F379096_ahhhgfrv_1.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.2carpros.com%252Fquestions%252Fvolkswagen-jetta-2003-volkswagen-jetta-engine-light--5%3B400%3B300

Very satisfying...

I'm looking at replacing all the engine mounts for my VRS, its 11+ years old & I think they are badly worn. (Clunking & knocking from the engine bay - all other suspension parts are new or have been replaced recently) I'm got hold of the Dog-Bone mount & the Nearside Gear Box mount but the Off-Side mount is proving rather expensive to buy. For some reason the one for the VRS seems to be £90 to £110, this is for the mount with part number 6Q0199167DK (This part number supersedes 6Q0199167CS or CE or CC) However, it seems that the mount is very common (just search Ebay for 6Q0199167) or take a look here: http://www.partsbase.org/vw/polo-derby-vento-ind-po-eu-2006-19920-mounting-parts-for-engine-and-transmission/#p-vw-6q0199167dk , the only difference I can see between all the different varieties is that the engine mounting bracket is different, but the actually main shock absorber is the same. So my question is, could I not purchase one of the cheaper versions (I've seen them less than £50) & just replace the bracket from my current existing mount on my car. They should just unbolt at the top & come straight off. Thanks.

EBay sell them. Part number is 6Y6955435 Appox. £6 Edit 1: Actually, your wiper looks different to mine. Not sure my code is for your wiper. Edit 2: Nah, I think it's the same after looking a little more closely.

While I appreciate it doesn't and my post does come across a bit smug there is some real benefit in learning to do this. It teaches you how to change gear (with the clutch) at the optimal moment without stressing the engine or the clutch thus reducing wear and tear. However, the post by the OP somewhat confuses me, without sounding too pedantic isn't it a question about driving fundamentals. Basically keep practicing and try and get use to the Fabia.

A true mark of a good driver is the ability to change gears without using the clutch and to do it smoothly with crunching them. I've mastered this technique in all cars I've owned.

Well front calipers operate completely differently to back ones. Plus what are you going to fit the brake cable to?

Quiet in here. Is everyone on holiday? Anyway, hopefully someone can verify if these parts are OK for a 2003 VRS: Dog bone mount: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/380852942282 Offside mount: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/291262580829 Nearside gearbox mount: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/201055542690?cmd=VIDESC I can't find they anywhere cheaper.

Easy solution: Get a tape measure & measure across the flats. If its 36mm you need a 36mm socket, if its 32mm then you need a 32mm socket. Simples.

Mines a 36mm socket (53 reg VRS)

Do you already have the new turbo? When I purchased mine all new gaskets came included & it even had a syringe of oil that you add to prime the turbo.

I just checked my engine mounts by putting my VRS in gear with the handbrake off & rocked the car back and forth from the front. There was noticeable movement from the engine & from the O/S mount. So I decided to replace all the engine mounts including the dog bone mount, how easy is it to replace them all by yourself? I believe that the dog bone mount just unbolts & the new one bolts back on. However, do I need to jack up the engine for the O/S one like you need do for the gearbox one? And where is the best place to jack/support the engine? Also, where is the best place to buy the mounts? It seems that AVS don’t stock them & ECP only sell the O/S mount & it’s currently out of stock. Is there a good place to buy them that’s relatively cheap but are good quality. Some people sell them on eBay but I don’t want to risk buying bad quality ones that break after 1 week. Thanks.

Yeah, the car ticks over fine, no noise or rattle and drives fine apart from the bad shudder. Is there any particular easy way to diagnose engine mounts?

In the last two weeks or so I've been getting a high frequency vibration through the accelerator and clutch peddle. Its not a harsh vibration, more like a hum, but it be clearly felt through my shoes. Its got nothing to do with the wheels or suspension as it does it when the car is stationary. Its seems to happen around the bite point of the clutch and if I have the accelerator at a certain point the hum vibration turns into a audible buzz. It got me thinking if this is dmf related as I had the clutch replaced a few years back, but not the dmf. Shortly after that I developed a very substantial shudder at 60mph if I booted it 6th,however I had no other symptoms. So, could this new vibration be down to the DMF failing or something else like gearbox etc.

When you say battery related do you mean that it's lost some of its charged and doesn't provided enough current to the power steering pump? I have a volt meter, would should be a minimum voltage the battery provides?

Battery was new last year and was a good one with 5 years warranty. I will check the power steering hydraulic fluid level later. BTW, what fluid is used in the pump? Is it the same as brake fluid?

Got the bolts off with an air gun, damn things were properly stuck in; there was rust and dirt all in the bolt thread, properly corroded.