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ca6

Finding my way
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Posts posted by ca6

  1. I have a 2011 CBZA 1.2 tsi Roomster, and the chain is rattly sometimes when I start the car up, but it goes away after a few seconds. It has had the chain tensioners replaced by a previous owner, so I assumed it has the revised one. 

    Apart from that, I think it's a lovely engine and feels more powerful than it is on paper. I assumed all 1.2tsi Roomsters have the cam chain?

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  2. I'm aware that the leads has been discussed before but I'm still asking this question.

    In 2019 I bought a second (well fourth) hand Roomster 2011 1.2tsi to have as a winter car. When I got it, I replaced the ignition leads at the same time as I replaced the spark plugs since I was aware that this engine wears out ignition leads.

     

    I bought NGK plugs and NGK leads, and since i got it the car has been driven 20000km. This week the NGK leads gave up (misfire on 1st cylinder according to OBD reader, yellow check engine light, EPC light and traction control light,) Luckily I still had the old leads and swithced back, and the issue went away. 

    I'm not sure if the old leads were OEM, but they had more markings than the NGK leads. According to Skoda-parts.com, the OEM/Genuine part costs three times the cost of the NGK, but I'm not sure what differs between them.

     

    Anyone knows the difference between thirdparty and OEM?

  3. I'm struggling with a similar brand tow hook on my Roomster, also made by Prof Svar. (The safety latch won't pop out when the hook is locked so it wont pass Swedish inspection, trying to find a way to service the latch but I might need to buy a complete new hook assembly)

    Anywyas, here's a list of Prof Svars towing hooks:
    https://branomarket.brano.eu/files/web-data/tazna-zarizeni.pdf

    This is probably the one you have:
    https://branomarket.brano.eu/e-shop/tazne-zarizeni-skoda-superb-ii-a-3t4-09-2008-04-2015-203255/

    I found some materials that might be helpful, the handle seem identical to yours
    https://manualsrepo.com/manuals/995237/prof-svar-tmb-ps-026-users-manual-and-installation-instructions

  4. I've come to realize that the 2011 Roomster I picked up three years ago had some shoddy rust fixes on the tail gate, and I think the easiest would be to just replace the tailgate with a second hand and respray it (I have an uncommon colour (9157/F8L)) instead of trying to fix the rust.

    There's rust along the lower outer edge, and also rust on the shelf piece above the number plate.

    Does anyone have any experience in this regard, and knows how comlicated it is?

     

     

  5. Oil consumption seems a bit random? My mums Ibiza with a CBZB (1.2tsi 105hp) engine uses a lot more oil than my 85hp Roomster, that's done 130.000km while the ibiza is 70.000km?

     

    My car had a broken PVC valve when I got it, and the only difference after fitting a new one was less oil smell from the engine bay.

  6. On 29/03/2021 at 20:23, tomandsophie said:

    I have just bought a 2008 1.4 petrol Roomster. I am quite shocked by the fuel economy. So far I have driven 100km of mostly motorway driving (60mph max, that's the speed limit here in Sweden) and so far the average economy is 9l/100km which equates to 31mpg. Is that normal? I was expecting better. 

     

    I've got a 63kw 1.2tsi and there's quite a big difference in fuel consumption between going highways or country roads. 70km/h can be 5.5-5.7 and 110 km/h can be 6.4.
    The Roomster doesn't have super terrible aerodynamics but it's still a big volume to push through the air and if it's windy it adds up.

    Since it's my winter car, I run it on unstudded Scandinavian winter tires, I guess low friction eco summer tires would help with the consumption as well.

  7. 2 hours ago, MikeRoom said:

    Thankyou CA6- sounds really plausible - just bog standard o rings ?- will look for these next time I open it up - appreciated

     

    I brought an old one with me and the clerk at the car parts store picked out four generic new ones that looked similar sized, paid ~€4 and it solved my problem.

     

    I found this on a german site, if you want dimensions to order online: https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/dichtungen-fahrlicht-hinten.124816/page-2

     

     

  8. I had intermittent problems with my rear lights, and also number plate lamps. Lights would flicker closing hatch, and sometimes they'd go out and come back if i tapped the lamp.

     

    I realized that the rubber o-rings on the light bulb holders were broken and didn't fix the lamp properly, and replacing there fixed the lamps. I assume that the o-ring applies some pressure to make sure the circuit is tight? (only sensible guess I can come up with?)

  9. Well, I'm just going to make a third post here ;)

     

    Turns out it was the rubber o-rings on the lamp holders that caused my lamps to flicker and go out. Three of them were broken, and wasn't really keeping the lamp totally fixed and it seems like a circuit break there also caused the numberplate lamp to cut out.

     

    Much cheaer and easier fix than to check wires and so on.

     

    DSCF2987.JPG

  10. On 18/11/2019 at 12:01, RichardatWakefield said:

    Hi ca6,

    What age is your Roomie? If it's an older car, suggest you prise back the rubber gaiter which feeds wires & a pipe to the hatch, from memory this is easiest done at the "hatch" end, check for split insulations, broken wires. And, from memory, the number-plate bulbs are festoon (double enders), twist each back & forth, helps improve the contact. And remove each to check filament. HTH.

     

    This is probably the case. I realized that when I shut the tailgate with the lights og, the reg plate lights flicker at the same time as the rear parking lamps (Right side though). I'll have a look at the wires and bulbs this weekend :)

  11. I seem to be having the same problem, left tail lamp driving/parking lamp (the lower one seems to be the issue) going on and off, and the right number plate lamp.

     

    I took the left lamp apart and cleaned the connectors (everything was dry), next project is to check on the number plate lamps and see if there's any water ingress there that's the cause of it.

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