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Yeah, leads are a common problem. Had them go bad both on my Roomsters CBZA and mums Ibiza CBZB. Since then I always keep a set at home (really should be in the car, heh.)

I have a 2011 CBZA 1.2 tsi Roomster, and the chain is rattly sometimes when I start the car up, but it goes away after a few seconds. It has had the chain tensioners replaced by a previous owner, so I assumed it has the revised one. Apart from that, I think it's a lovely engine and feels more powerful than it is on paper. I assumed all 1.2tsi Roomsters have the cam chain?

Are you sure they have ever worked? I'm under the impression that some cars does not have working rear fog lamps, I think I read it in a post here somehwere. I have the same issue on my Roomster, everything should be working but doesn't.

It seems quite common that the lead for cylinder #3 goes bad because it's very close to the exhaust manifold on these particular engines. My mum has also needed to get her leads replaced on her CBZB-engined Ibiza.

I'm aware that the leads has been discussed before but I'm still asking this question. In 2019 I bought a second (well fourth) hand Roomster 2011 1.2tsi to have as a winter car. When I got it, I replaced the ignition leads at the same time as I replaced the spark plugs since I was aware that this engine wears out ignition leads. I bought NGK plugs and NGK leads, and since i got it the car has been driven 20000km. This week the NGK leads gave up (misfire on 1st cylinder according to OBD reader, yellow check engine light, EPC light and traction control light,) Luckily I still had the old leads and swithced back, and the issue went away. I'm not sure if the old leads were OEM, but they had more markings than the NGK leads. According to Skoda-parts.com, the OEM/Genuine part costs three times the cost of the NGK, but I'm not sure what differs between them. Anyone knows the difference between thirdparty and OEM?

Found a video, although in Swedish: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwJsiIkDSuc&ab_channel=NiklasL (I'm aware this might be a dead thread, but someone else than OP might find it useful)

I'm struggling with a similar brand tow hook on my Roomster, also made by Prof Svar. (The safety latch won't pop out when the hook is locked so it wont pass Swedish inspection, trying to find a way to service the latch but I might need to buy a complete new hook assembly) Anywyas, here's a list of Prof Svars towing hooks: https://branomarket.brano.eu/files/web-data/tazna-zarizeni.pdf This is probably the one you have: https://branomarket.brano.eu/e-shop/tazne-zarizeni-skoda-superb-ii-a-3t4-09-2008-04-2015-203255/ I found some materials that might be helpful, the handle seem identical to yours https://manualsrepo.com/manuals/995237/prof-svar-tmb-ps-026-users-manual-and-installation-instructions

I've come to realize that the 2011 Roomster I picked up three years ago had some shoddy rust fixes on the tail gate, and I think the easiest would be to just replace the tailgate with a second hand and respray it (I have an uncommon colour (9157/F8L)) instead of trying to fix the rust. There's rust along the lower outer edge, and also rust on the shelf piece above the number plate. Does anyone have any experience in this regard, and knows how comlicated it is?

Oil consumption seems a bit random? My mums Ibiza with a CBZB (1.2tsi 105hp) engine uses a lot more oil than my 85hp Roomster, that's done 130.000km while the ibiza is 70.000km? My car had a broken PVC valve when I got it, and the only difference after fitting a new one was less oil smell from the engine bay.

I've got some second hand Thule cross bars from a Golv IV Variant (Or even from a III, I'm not certain). I think the shape of the roof rails are pretty universal at least within VAG so as long as they're long enough, second hand ones should be fine?

Have you noticed any difference in fuel consumption?

I've got a 63kw 1.2tsi and there's quite a big difference in fuel consumption between going highways or country roads. 70km/h can be 5.5-5.7 and 110 km/h can be 6.4. The Roomster doesn't have super terrible aerodynamics but it's still a big volume to push through the air and if it's windy it adds up. Since it's my winter car, I run it on unstudded Scandinavian winter tires, I guess low friction eco summer tires would help with the consumption as well.

191 867 775 A 01C https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/191867775a01c-rear-plate-belt-holder-oe-4600.html

Mine was broken when I bought mine six months ago, and I think it had been off for quite a while based on oil residue. fitting a new one only saw the petrol fumes at idle go away, no change on mileage really.

I brought an old one with me and the clerk at the car parts store picked out four generic new ones that looked similar sized, paid ~€4 and it solved my problem. I found this on a german site, if you want dimensions to order online: https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/dichtungen-fahrlicht-hinten.124816/page-2

I had intermittent problems with my rear lights, and also number plate lamps. Lights would flicker closing hatch, and sometimes they'd go out and come back if i tapped the lamp. I realized that the rubber o-rings on the light bulb holders were broken and didn't fix the lamp properly, and replacing there fixed the lamps. I assume that the o-ring applies some pressure to make sure the circuit is tight? (only sensible guess I can come up with?)

I bought four new ones, ~€4. Not sure about the dimension, I found a dimension at a german site (13x19x3mm fits) I just brought an old one to an auto parts store and the clerk picked out four new ones out of a big box.

Well, I'm just going to make a third post here Turns out it was the rubber o-rings on the lamp holders that caused my lamps to flicker and go out. Three of them were broken, and wasn't really keeping the lamp totally fixed and it seems like a circuit break there also caused the numberplate lamp to cut out. Much cheaer and easier fix than to check wires and so on.

This is probably the case. I realized that when I shut the tailgate with the lights og, the reg plate lights flicker at the same time as the rear parking lamps (Right side though). I'll have a look at the wires and bulbs this weekend

It's a 2011, so I guess it's a new-ish one. The bulb is not broken since it seems to go on and off, hopefully it's just the connectors/contacts that needs some cleaning up.

I seem to be having the same problem, left tail lamp driving/parking lamp (the lower one seems to be the issue) going on and off, and the right number plate lamp. I took the left lamp apart and cleaned the connectors (everything was dry), next project is to check on the number plate lamps and see if there's any water ingress there that's the cause of it.

Our fogs-DRLs are the same as on the facelift Fabia II, so maybe check in that forum as well?

I serviced my car this weekend, and was not surprised to find a broken off PCV valve. I stripped a welding rod of it's coating and bent it to a 2-3mm 90 degree hook in the end, which made it possible to remove the left over piece of the valve from the valve cover.

I'd recommend spending the money for a one hour unlock on erWin: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showDSP.do I was able to get a complete spec sheet for my car as well, and apart from all kinds of maintenance guides, they have quite a lot of interesting documents.

I think DRLs was fuse #35, but I'm not sure...could be that #35 was side/parking lamp.