mbames
-
Posts
7,324 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Shop
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by mbames
-
-
On 21/07/2022 at 15:09, Tin82 said:
Take a picture of the error message with you phone when the fault appears. Than email the picture to you dealer. This way you have prove the error started to occur within the warranty period.
Normally it will flash up far too quickly to get a picture (and unsafe to do so anyway). The fault will be logged in the Steering module.
-
1
-
-
Mine was a '14 plate, and it was replaced about 22 months ago (so at about 3 years old).
I don't know what was fitted to mine, but when I take it in later in the month, I can try and find out... assuming the dealer will be forthcoming with part number / part revisions. -
Mine is due back in for a secondary (under warranty, hopefully) fix. The current pump lasted 50k miles.
Remember replacement parts carry a 2 year warranty, so this could get expensive for the dealers is they keep fitting rubbish pumps.
-
Mines going back in for a "diagnostic". As the pump is just under 2 years old, it should be covered by their parts and warranty.... assuming they accept it is the fault of the pump.
£144 for the diagnostic, which as far as I can see involves reading the fault codes. #simplythieves -
Mine stuck again this morning. Looks like the "new" pumps are only good for about 50k, 2 years. #simplycrap
-
1
-
-
I was thinking about mounting mine (has it for years and never fitted it).
It occurred to me that I should be able to fit in inside the glovebox, next to the light.... has anyone else done that? Haven't removed anything or check the ability to route cables yet though.
-
D - is that right at the right at the back of the car? I had wondered along running along under the door skills, but I wasn't sure how they came up....
-
51 minutes ago, wg100 said:
Not much help to you now I suspect, but I found it much easier to just get a new rubber joint to go into the spare holes on the opposite corner of the boot lid. It was too tight to get the camera wiring loom through the existing rubber joint.
I was able to squeeze through a blackvue rear camera cable (with plug) and the reverse camera cable (sans plug). Was awkward getting a square plug up through all the ribbed bit for sure. Was starting to evaluate my life choices in cold!
Next step try and cable the along the roof lining. Can you drop it at the grab handles?
-
I drilled a 1/16 hole, and gently screwed in a small screw. Gripped it with a pair of pliers and pulled it. Success. I then popped the main bit out and it vanished onto the garage floor. Found it 5 minutes later under the car!
Now I just need to work out how to get the inner white plastic sections of the flexi-rubber cable hoses off... I removed the rubber before and it look me ages to get that back on and that was with an extra pair of hands! -
I'll look out my sharpest drill bit! Had also wondered about a stud extraction tool as well, but I don't think they go small enough.
-
I'm wondering if I could drill out out.... saves having a piece of plastic (x2) rattling around inside the tailgate for ever!
-
I've seen those things.... will see how much damage I cause tomorrow!
-
I had my pump replaced "under warranty" on my 2014 when it was just over 3yrs/60kmiles. Twice in the last couple of weeks the overheat has come back.
The first instance was after a hill climb shortly after setting off from cold (overnight), so the normal conditions - a few flats miles and then a quick hill climb and it can't release faster enough.
The second was a 2 days ago. 15 minutes into a trip, started from cold (been parked up all day), about 3 miles to the motorway (at about 30-40mph), and then onto the motorway with a nice steady cruise at 70. Overheat pinged up, I pulled over onto the hardshoulder and watched the gauge drop from 130 to 90 in steps (probably over about 60-90seconds) and then it remained happy for the rest of the trip. As I had my cambelt replaced last time, I guess that means it is next due at about 60+120 = 180k miles (just hit 110k).
-
Maybe not the most the most of clear titles.
I need too remove the plastic internal trim on the inside of the estate. I've got the larger plastic section off (so that I could fit a reversing camera), but I've not yet figured how to remove the "n" shaped trim which goes around the glass edge.
Given the cooler temperatures I figure I should do this carefully, so as not to break anything. I guess those who have fitted cameras and routed the cable with the flexi pipes into the car should know this....
Any hints?
Thanks :-)
-
4 hours ago, WayTooTall said:
I have a 14 plate with 90k, and only issue was with an early version of the waterpump. The current version is fine.
14plate with 108k. Had the waterpump replaced, and it played up again the other day.
DSG selector may ping up errors about only putting into park when stationary. Message appears and disappears in a few seconds, think it gets logged under steering, rather gearbox.-
1
-
-
I'd suspect the hardware has failed. Buy a cheap network card and fit it. Sorted.
-
8 hours ago, StickyMicky said:
What's the word on running dual feed cables from separate MCBs in the consumer unit? I know the CU would be a single point of failure but there's not a lot one can do about that in most domestic situations.
If you effectively mean 2 x 16amp spurs, both terminating in different PDUs, and all labeled up that would fine. However you;d need equipment which supported dual feeds. Most domestic kit doesn't.
Two options:
single spur from the CU rated 16 amps.
extended the neared ring (and hope it isn't the kitchen circuit)
and then whack a UPS in there.-
1
-
-
you can also use mxtoolbox to scan your domains email settings too.
From what I have found for a couple of mail lists that you are best off having the sender as the same domain, rather name "[email protected] on behalf of [email protected]" and having the replies sent back to the list (or a [email protected]).
BT seem to be the worst for eating messages / eating them, as I never get any NDRs back. -
The water pump has a sleeve which moves to reduce water flow when the car is cold to trigger a faster warm up time. Not sure how they actually work though.
-
18 minutes ago, tunedude said:
I use redex every few tanks of fuel (usually after 1500 miles).
How do you get it into the tank? My 2014 has some form of security flap which prevents you just pouring some redex into the tank.
-
On 26/06/2019 at 09:51, Aspman said:
Pretty much what I'm thinking.
I'd like to get a 24 or 48 port POE switch (might only be half POE).
I only have 2 x POE APs and a single Axis POE camera. The switch monitors/detects which ports require power so is quite cost effective. It even tells me the current draw per port.I started off with a keystone style patch panel, but changed that out at the start of the year for punchdown style one when I ran in a few more cables.
You can also pick up a 19inch PDU strip. I power that from a UPS, which then supplies power my modem, router, switch (and thus APs) and cordless phone base-station. if you have any RPIs they can be powered via a POE bridge too.
-
Never run a single cable to a location, unless it is a ceiling based AP. Living room, bedroom, kitchen, etc always run in pairs. Consider 4 for behind the TV in main living areas.
I use a Netgear 24port POE gigabit switch in a small cab in the loft (bought it off ebay), and have a 24 port patch panel that everything is terminated into.
-
1
-
1
-
-
40k interval for the 6sp wet box. Not sure what you have fitted in the 1.4petrol.
-
1
-
-
It won't fail an MOT. My car has been doing this for the last few years (when it was under warranty the local dealer denied there was a a fault).
Opening bonnets
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
Posted
Having been there and done this, I really must make up a charge cable (fused lower than that the cigarette lighter socket!).