speedsport

The designers of cars have considerable problems when trying to set up the seating position for all shapes and sizes of drivers. I'm not being sizist, but a car has to accommodate the tall and the short (I'm the latter) the slim (that's me again) and the increasing proportion of drivers who are overweight. If you are short in the leg (me) then you have the seat fairly well forward and possibly set higher than someone of more substantial girth. So, opinions about how a car fits a driver are almost wholly dependent on the body dimensions of the driver. One size definitely doesn't fit all. The relative positions of the seat, the armrest, the handbrake lever, the gear stick, the steering wheel and the pedals are all a compromise designed to fit the "average" occupant and with the best will in the world, will not please everyone. Like the OP, I find the armrest doesn't move far enough forwards when I'm on a motorway, but when I'm driving on other roads I slide the armrest right back as I feel it gets in the way when I need to use the handbrake. And no, I don't know of any way of extending the armrest forwards.

If anyone wants to follow the other (main) thread about this, see 14 pages of posts from here on: And there's no solution in sight yet!

Spoke to Lookers Skoda Stockport on Friday. They say they have been told it's "a global issue connected with data provided by satellite" and I need to contact Skoda support if I need more information. Round & round we go in circles! Has Russia turned off a satellite by any chance? 😉

In my case, I ncould actually see droplets of water dripping down from inside the bottom lip of the dashboard onto the wheelarch carpet, which suggests it's coming down the inside of the A pillar. But door seals are still worth checking as water can travel in odd directons!

My 2016 car seems to be able to handle any amount of rain or hosing down when pointing uphill or is level, but when pointing downhill by a reasonable amount, then water leaks into the footwell on both sides. I suspect water is simply running forwards and collecting in the channel to the point that it gets deep enough to leak out through a join or something that's normally ok when there's little water present. But, I've tried adding water to the channel at home, making a dam to get it to collect, and have totally failed to reproduce the problem. Weird! So, I just don't park facing downhill.

I can recommend very highly the LEDs sold by https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk Theyre not the cheapest, but they do seem to take great care to sell products that will last. (I have no connection with them other than as a satisfied customer)

The winter tyres (Avon Ice Touring on 16" steels) on my Yeti are absolutely superb particularly in the type of snow we have at the moment. It feels almost as sure footed as it would on a snow-free wet road. I suspect this unusually dry, crisp snow is more like the stuff they get in Northern Europe. And it's Northern Europe that winter tyres are primarily designed for, not the usual UK slush. The big problem is that the vast majority of 4x4's (or 2wd SUV's that look like 4x4's) are sold to people who believe that having such a vehicle makes them invincible. "Ooh, I must have a 4x4 so I can still get around in winter". But without winter tyres, every 4x4 is just the same as every other vehicle on ordinary tyres when the driver decides to hit the brakes in snow..... it wont stop! Winter (or cross-climate) tyres are the only way to go! Incidentally, they've now done just under 18000 miles shared bewtween 2 Yetis and I reckon they may still have another 4000 useful miles left in them before needing replacing at 4mm tread depth.

When I changed the battery on my pre-F/Lift Yeti, the only thing I had to reset was the clock. Everything else retained its settings/memory. All sorts of warning lights stayed on for the first 100m before ABS etc recalibrated themselves. No external devices required.

Ah, thanks Tony... that was the section I was looking for originally and couldn't find. I'd forgotten you have to go back one extra step before the usual Yeti Forum "index" to find it. Lots of very useful topics there, as we both know.

Once you've done it once, it's dead easy! Great Yeti wrote a step by step guide to removing the glove box, but I cant find it anywhere in the fourm now So, with apologies for pinching his original text. SKODA YETI REMOVING THE GLOVE BOX See pdf below:- Yeti Glove Box removal.pdf

My first Yeti was creak free from day 1, but my 2016 L&K was infuriatingly loud, at all temperatures. After trying to wedge various items into the gap, I eventually bought some very cheap silicone spray-lube from the local poundshop, and used it vary sparingly, taking care not to let it overspray onto the face of the dial surround. It helped, but still some creaks, so I then followed instructions on a previous thread to undo the instrument panel and tilt it forwards to enable me to smear some plumbers silicone grease onto the mounting brackets too and a little more around the top edge of the panel. Screwed it all back together.... perfect! That was 6 months ago and not a squeek since, whatever the ambient temperature. I'll see if I can find the previous thread. EDIT See how to remove instrument cluster here: http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/yeti/vehicle_electrics/electrical_system/instruments_gci/dash_panel_insert/removing_and_installing_the_dash_panel_insert/ There's no need to remove the cluster entirely, just release it as described in the link & pull it forwards. I seem to recall that it helped to drop the steering wheel as low as it would go, and fully towards you, though this may not be necessary.

Oh dear, what have I started?!!!!! :-(

They said the same about brake dust one upon a time!

Thanks Graham.... I'll try that.

Apparently, the washer liquids recommended for fan jets are supposed to be better at keeping impurities in suspension in hard water areas, and preventing a build up of deposits both in the nozzels and on the screen itself as they mix with fresh air. A bit more concerning is that bactera can build up in the washer bottle and when ejected through fan jets produces such a fine mist that it is easily breathed in by vehicle occupants. Thus there is a real risk of spreading legionaire's desease. In theory, the "fan jet" screenwashes have a bio additive that supresses the bacteria. Extracted from Quantum hazard specification: "Quantum premium screenwash concentrate contains advanced water additives to stop the formation of scale and inhibit the growth of bio films and bacteria including Legionella in the washer bottle".

My 2016 Yeti's rear wiper has begun stopping at any position on the screen, usually vertically upwards, until the car warms up. It will have another go at parking in the right place next time it receives a pulse for the intermittant wipe, but it may stop again anywhere. Eventually it'll park in the correct position, after which it then behaves normally. I suspect the position indicator or whatever tells the motor what postion the wiper is in is faulty, so I'll get it attended to under warranty at the next service. What's the betting that the remedy is a new motor assembly, which of course they wont have in stock, so it'll mean two visits to the dealer to get it fixed!

I traded in my 2010 1.8TSi 4x4 Elegance in 2016 at 56,000 miles because it was starting to use oil and I couldn't face the hassle of trying to make yet another claim against Skoda UK, particulary as the car was by then 6 years old. It had been a rather unreliable car all its life, with various electrical, cooling and trim faults, some of which were eventually fixed under warranty, some fixed with goodwill contributions from Skoda UK and some I fixed myself having lost confidence in Skoka's dealers. Had I not seen the various comments on this forum about oil problems with the 1.8 engine, I may have kept it for longer, but I'm now glad I didn't and I escaped before the problem became worse. I had intended to keep the car for up to 10 years and bodily it was immaculate & drove superebly. But........ ! The car did everything I wanted a car to do and although I looked at other cars in the market, rightly or wrongly, I bought another Yeti, a 1.4Tsi L&K, which so far has been almost 100% perfect. What a shame that VW Group seems to have created a problem engine that spoils the reputation of an excellent car. I just hope that my current Yeti proves to be more reliable. I wonder how many cars that suffer from this excessive oil consumption problem have been initially set on variable service intervals? My 2010 Yeti was on variable interval, and had it's first oil change at 14500 miles which my head tells me is far to late. Its replacement demanded its first service at 9600 miles, which to me is far more sensible, and I will be looking to have max 10000 mile/12 month oil changes in the future.

And shouldn't the car be displaying sidelights as a minimum when fog lights are on?

What happened when you took the car to the dealer? I've got the same fault :-(

Which is precisely why I checked the pressures as soon as I got home and the tyres had cooled down! (and the coolant level, the oil level, the brake fluid........ !)

Yep... my first Yeti's tyres were set at between 42 & 48 psi when I collected it back in 2010. My current Yeti's tyres were set at.... yes, you've guessed, 45 all round when I collected it in 2016. Same dealership.... rather suggests that they don't check tyre pressures as part of the PDI.

Thanks Graham... you've confirmed my suspicions - I'll check descriptions carefully to find an appropriate product. Cheers, John

Graham, there seem to be quite a few sprays including bike chain oils that contain Teflon, but many are just that, an oil that contains Teflon. I would think that they may not be suitable for use on plastics, whereas silicone is. I have a very old can of Ambersil silicone spray that was originally intended as a releasing agent when casting into rubber moulds, but it's very "thin" and the nozzle won't take a plastic straw to aid accurate application. I don't want to get the stuff on the face of the instrument panel (or me!). When I look up silicone sprays, there seems to be a whole rage of the stuff for different applications and with different viscosity. Is "dry lube" a generic description for any silicone spray, or is it something specific?

Please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is "Dry Lube"? Is it just a thin silicone spray? There seems to be a phenomenal difference in price between brands of Silicone spray. Some call themselves "Dry Lube" and some don't (including CRC's product above).

I was wary of doing that in case it got onto the front face of the instrument surround and made it glossy, or even worse, got onto the lenses in-front of the gauges. Or am I worrying unnecessarily ? If so, is there a recommended brand of dry lube that doesn't cost the earth?