Shroud
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Posts posted by Shroud
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First bit of frost and you'll have buyers biting your hands off for these for winters. Too good to scrap.
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You'd think that £50 each was the intention, otherwise they may take alittle while to sell.
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I have the same steel rims and i have put them on my mk2 Fabia fine. But if you run with a 205 width tyre then you will need a profile less than 55 to avoid passenger rear rubbing the plastic inner arch.
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You can get the code mapped out.
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Congrats to you. Seen pics of that car. Well looked after.
Yes, it looks a real nice one. Just like mine. Hold on it is mine.
Great cars, may even get another at a later point, such a lot of car for the price they are going for nowadays.
Thanks to Bowders, Chicken Eyebrow, Paul Dazzle, et all for making it such a great forum.
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That was a good tip that i overlooked when i followed your excellent guide. :( Still worked fine though, but you do have to be careful.
That's a good price from TPS. I'm sure i paid closer to £80 from Skoda.
And yes i'd happily help someone out doing theirs who were local, but TBH the guide pretty much covers the process completely.
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Yep, seat comes up like new again after doing this
Those metal rods/lines are a bit of a pain though. :no:
After i did mine a friend mentioned it is worth using a bit of silicon spray on the base to help stretch the cover back over the new base. It's supposed to help avoid over stretching and tearing the cover.
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Looks like all the right bits, but you will need to get some grease. £100 2nd hand is still quite a lot, as they are about £150 new, but the condition looks very good. Interesting tape design.
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At least it has sold mate and you can move on. The one thing you can guarantee is that 99% of us will end up selling their car at some point for much less than we paid for it and usually less than what we would have wanted.
best of luck.
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You have pm
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Another thought, if you ever sold the car, how do you sell it saying you've removed half the engines ancillaries ?
resistors i bought from ebay, but i guess there are other electrical places that would sell them.
re selling the car - 1stly, many buyers wouldn't know what you have removed and even if they did or you told them, there is little reason to deter a buyer on the basis of having removed a pretty meaningless bit of kit that was designed mainly for the benefit of other international markets.
However, obviously it's your car and you need to decide what you are and are not prepared to do. I orginally bought a brand new Audi SAI (heavily discounted) that was supposed to fit the VRS, but still ended up being a waste of time as the power connector wouldn't fit correctly and also damaged the daft plastic hose clips in the process. I did mine nearly a year ago now and haven't regretted it.
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It's looking like removing it is the best choice! What do I need to do this? Can I do it myself?
I didn't use this guide, but it is a close match and also covers the N112 and N249 removal, which also makes your engine bay a lot tidier and easier to work on in the future. There are quite a few guides if you do a search on this forum and google.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete
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When AMD did mine they recommended the middle height setting to start with, which i've kept ever since. The only time i was close to changing this was in the winter in 2010 when the snow was here and thought about getting a bit more clearance.
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Having had B'mers for a number of years there is one thing I can assure you of :-
The hype is greater than the reality
Ask your self "Why are they so cheap". They always remind me of the last of the old Ford Granada Mark II
Most BM dealers would willingly give these away as long as you let them do the service.
Great to hear a voice of reason. Had two M3's myself so know that they can be expensive to keep, i had just overlooked/deliberately forgotten about those £1000+ servicing bills. That has at least settled by nervous ebay bidding finger for a while.
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Every two years i have an irresistable urge to get a different car. Some of you will know what this is like. Now matter how much you might like the car you've got, you just feel you might have to make a change for better or for worse. I had considered a Superb v6 tdi, but there are few around, and i fancy something a bit punchier than the Vrs and am not convinced the v6 tdi would fit the bill.
Anyway, i noticed how cheap (as cheap as a 10 year old VRS would sell for) the BMW 535i's are going for currently with similar mileage and feel quite tempted.
Given road tax and insurance wouldn't be that much different, the only factor holding me back is running costs. I reckon i will spend c 40% more on fuel, but so long as i keep annual mileage below 8,000, this is a bearable cost. This just leaves servicing. I reckon parts will cost more and would need to find a good local indy, but i am think reliability wise there wouldn't be much in it. I just keep seeing myself behind the wheel of what would have been a £30-£40k car and liking the thought of it.
Are there some views that might sway me further towards or away from this path?
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A brand new set retails at c£900, but can't imagine who would ever pay this, as i have sold two sets one was pretty average to poor condition for £185 and a better set for £260, so i reckon that is your approx price range depending upon condition.
You may well get a bit more when people are looking for a second set of rims for winters, etc.
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They are light years better when the going gets really tough. I noticed that you don't quite get the sharpness that you would be used to on summer tyres in the dry, but you get so much more everywhere else.
Exactly my experience. I bought my Goodyear Ultragrips in Jan 11 so haven't seen a single bit of snow, but on colder, wet and generally slippery roads, they give you a huge amount of extra confidence compared to my summer tyres.
The only pitfall is that the extra confidence tempts you to push that bit more and so the risk of driver error goes up.
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The tyre place i work at sells lots of part worns and i got a full set of Conti Winter Contacts with 5-6mm on for a fraction of the cost of new ones. Car drives really well on them too, even if we haven't had so much as a frost yet. Bring on the snow!
Toby
At least as far as winters are concerned it is recommended replacing at 4mm for optimum performance in snow, hence a tyre with 5-6mm left is already over 50% worn.
Then again legally you don't have to replace until you get to 1.6mm, so it depends how you intend to run them.
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between 290 and 320 a tank. Daily drive is quite short at 8 miles each way and quite a bit of stop starting. Since being mapped i seem to get slightly better miles per tank.
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1) my dads Talbot Avenger Estate - worst car i've ever driven
2) Cavalier MK2 1,6 L (1980) - Fab car. 1 shock absorber was all i spent on it in 4 years. Not even an oil change.
3) my dads Ford Escort 1.6 GL estate (1986) - 2nd worst car i've ever driven
4) Mondeo 2.0 Ghia (1998) - A comfortable and reliable barge.
5) Nissan Almera 2.0 GTI - So understated.
6) BMW M3 e36 Evo SMG (1998) - Why did i ever sell this car :no:
7) Mini Cooper S (2004) - For all round fun. my No 1.
8) Jaguar S Type R (2002) - Amazing engine and refinement, but ever so slightly boring.
9) Astra CDTI 150 (2004) - Back to the real world with a bump.
10) BMW M3 e36 Evo Cab (1996) - Cabs are not my thing, but just had to own another M3.
11) Toyota Avensis 1.8vvti (2001) - 3rd worst car i've driven
12) Vectra 3.2 V6 Elite (2004)- solid, relaible and even more boring than the jag
13) Subaru Forester STB 2.0 T (1996) - Super performance for a cheap price
14) Audi A6 4.2 V8 (1999) - Very nice, but petrol costs start to hurt about now.
15) Octavia VRS (2001) - Somewhere in the top half of my all time owned list, but not a top three i'm afraid unless you factor in practicality and running costs, then it hits no 1.
16) Fabia II 1.9 TDI
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Mine had it too, and decided to replace. Pretty cheap on ebay, with 2 year guarantee, and quite easy to fit.
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Don't forget there are 16" spiders too.
Don't have to fit steels.Good point.
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I was considering going the other way and getting 16" 205/55's and getting rid of the spiders and replacing them with a nice set of steelies. Figured it would save about £30-£40 per tyre.
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Hello all
I collected my vRS on Saturday and found this site yesterday.
What simple things can I do to the car to mod it? I've seen on here a part number for a upper strut brace? Does anyone have a picture of it? Do they have the lower one fitted s standard?
Many thanks
Chris
I think there is a bar integrated inside the rear beam from memory, but the RARB is the way to go. Whiteline seems to be a popular choice and are pretty cheap. Neuspeed are better quality, thicker but much dearer. I found the 24mm Whiteline RARB more than adequate for my needs.
Don't have to fit steels.
Vw Golf 16" Steel Wheels - 5 x 100 - SOLD
in Parts For Sale
Posted
Bargain. Sold a very similar set condition wise on ebay for quite a bit more than this a few weeks back.
Also corrected my earlier post re: 205/55/16 tyres. The 16" rims are fine on the Fabia, but you really need a lower profile tyre such as a 50 or 45, as the passenger rear arch rubs slightly otherwise.