Shroud
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Posts posted by Shroud
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Not entirely sure what you are asking, but the lines have release clips and once depressed correctly should pop off quite easily. It is a bit of a fiddle, but 'force' shouldn't be required (at least when i did mine).
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On a previous Audi i had, the wiper arm mechanism got a bit rusted and needed to be removed, cleaned up and re-lubed. Not sure if the Octavia suffers with this on older cars, but given that you could still hear the motor going, i wonder if this might be worth checking first (and the nut which ensures the mechanism moves as the motor turns hasn't come loose).
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Both look great. Subtle mods that give you that exclusive look without OTT. Do you prefer the VRS to the Corrado?
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I can sympathize with you. Ben always seems really busy which reflects his work ethic and popularity, so customer service seems to suffer at times from my experience. I would suggest keep chasing and eventually you will catch him. I imagine your post was removed because the mod may have felt that it is better you address specific issues with a supplier directly with them rather than through the forum, although i guess you used the forum because you were hoping for a swifter response that yuo are getting by going direct.
Good luck.
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And sadly the truth is most of these 'bad' insurance companies make zero profit on the premium you pay vrs claims costs they have to pay out. The only thing that is wrong is those insurers who get commission or referral fees for passing details of claimants to no win no fee lawyers, who then try to get you to make substantial and sometimes overinflated claims (e.g whiplash damage) and then also pass on their overinflated costs to the insurer - result - higher premiums. :'(
Of course car insurers also end up paying for the fact that some other forms of trasnport (e.g. cycles) still do not need to have any insurance to ride on our roads, although this is probably the subject of another thread.
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cool. Thanks very much.
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Many Thanks. I noticed these but couldn't find a cross reference as being the right ones for the Octavia MK1 hatch, so wasn't 100% sure? Can you confirm that these are defo the right connectors or can someone else verify?
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I need some basic and clear guidance as to how to wire up a new set of aftermarket rear speakers.
The plugs off the old speakers look like this and understand from other posts that i either need to get an adapter (but which one) or cut off the black plugs and solder the wires to the new speakers. But which wires do i connect to what, as i understand that one set of wires from each side is for the rear tweeter, which i don't really care whether they remain working or not?
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I usually use a small screwdriver to prise up the end then a bigger one to pop it off.
+1. Not always kind to the hose depending how careful you are, but since the only reason for removing my clips was to replace the hose then i didn't mind too much.
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Anyone used, dare i say it....... Mr. Clutch??
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Can't fault my local Mr Clutch. They fitted what i supplied to them and did a great job on a previous car. I guess it comes down to what branch you use, but let's face it they need to be pretty good at replacing clutches as it's their main specialism, or they wouldn't stick around very long.
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Surpised that your discs might have warped though after 2 years and on the same pads. I always considered Brembo to be a decent make. Maybe i'm getting old but i'm sure discs used to outlast a number of pads and quite alot of miles (e.g. 50k+). Maybe as Dannyboy says the disc size makes warping more likely after minimal wear. You haven't gone past the first wear indicator yet.
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Are you referring to the two holes on opposite sides of the disc face?
Aren't they wear indicators designed to disappear when the disc has worn below the minimum thickness?
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For just under a tenner, it is definitely worth doing, although you do have the extra cost of the sealant and additional tool to get those annoying bolts off from around the gearbox unless you already have a good tool selection.
Not the easiest DIY though (if you are just used to doing oil changes and the odd brake pad replacement then this might test you a little more). It would be good if we could start a thread that rates the complexity/skill required for different jobs, as it is easy to think a job is simple because an experienced person thinks it is, but to someone else it is quite tricky).
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suggest you repost in the correct section and you'll get a better response.
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£3k, but advertise for £3,499 and be prepared to drop if you get no takers.
If cambelt is due then you might have to do something on price to allow for this.
Good luck
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Looks great
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I have a 2001 Y-reg Octavia vRS with 108,000 miles on the clock.
It has the following things wrong with it:
- Aircon completely broken (compressor gone)
- Front wheel bearing very noisy
- Secondary airpump broken (and disconnected)
- Engine warning light on (mechanic thinks this is due to the airpump having been disconnected affecting emissions)
- Exhaust sounds like its on the way out (apart from a small section of the exhaust replaced under warranty, the exhaust has not been changed from new)
- Front bumper knackered from catching on kerbs too many times when parking (!)
Still goes pretty quick, has full service history, but I'm going to replace it and I'm not sure if it is worth repairing any of these faults or just scrapping?
thanks.
aircon - not really an issue unless aircon is important to you or future buyer
bearing - fix it
EML light - likely to be pump. No harm if it isn't connected or working, so suggest do nothing apart from verify it is the fault code related to the pump.
Exhaust - suggest getting someone to confirm one way or another.
Bumper - who cares, unless you really care about the looks of your car.
Not sure why scrap is an option as even with these issues it has resale value?
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It sounds like a possible, given that the pump is pretty close to the filter, but when you say the clip has broken i presume you mean the hose itself was not attached (i.e. had come off due to the broken clip). I know my EML came on when i removed my pump altogether, and first came on when the power connector wasn't fully connected to the pump.
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I would look at what is out there within my budget and if i found something that ignited my interest i would sell the VRS and go for it. If i found nothing much better, then i would fix her up and enjoy for another year or two.
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So a sump off job then? Is the sump easy to remove or is there anything obstructing it?
There is a guide in the technical guide section. This should give you a better idea how easy it is, as this will very much depend upon what kind of work you are comfortable doing.
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Hey what this pick on bowders......
And stop keep doing these really really useful guides. It's costing me money.
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If you use the OE stuff to seal it you get a nozzle and you only need a very small beading round it. If you look at Bowders1 how to guide, I didn't use anywhere near that much.
Billy
Yeah, i reckon half his sump is full of silicon now.
VW workshop manual suggest 3mm bead, and used this red RTV stuff. Pan didn't got straight on though as oil flexi pipe got in the way, so i'll find out tomorrow whether the seal was messed up when i check the driveway.
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It has the makings of a comedy scene. I can't get the image out of my head.
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It also might be down to the way the cars are driven and the length of the travels? mine never really drives less than 20 mile at a time so its got lots of time to circulate and get hot, I also dont drive it hard that often, mostly cruise is on so that could help?
Dont see how there could be cracks in it tho? are you sure they are just not machine marks that oil is stuck on?
Very true and you never really know how the car has been driven before you owned it, unless you've had it from new. For an extra £10 it is worth doing if just for peace of mind. Not really that easy a job though IMHO. Over 20 bolts in all, some hard to get to, and a couple of mine seemed to be cross threaded, also getting the right amount of sealant on without any gaps isn't as easy as it first seems. I had a slight leak after the engine warmed up and i dreaded the worst (that i had somehow not sealed correctly or disturbed a bit whilst raising the oil pan into the correct position). Got back under the car and noticed that i had left the filter a little loose, so tightened a further 1/4 turn, so am hoping it was that. :(
Cracks are genuine though, when i brushed my fingers across the oil pan surface when cleaning it, it was rough over each crack where the metal pan surface had broken slightly (no shards or anything). I guess it cracks like this from minor impacts.
Fuel Filter
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted
In your top pic the clip is the black thing right next to the filter housing. I think you need to depress a part of it on the collar (fatter part) of the clip with something like a flat headed screwdriver and off it pops. Same with the lower clip. You just have to find the bit of the collar that depresses. Hopefully someone else can post who can confirm or give better guidance.
Also i assume you will release the pressure on the fuel line before removing?