L98

Cam belt was changed 2 years and 10k miles ago. Not had a problem in that time. I doubt the belt has jumped, its only 10k miles since it was changed and the car doesn't get thrashed. It starts well and revs up and idles smoothly, and in normal traffic it drives ok until its covered about a mile then the power just dies struggling to get beyond 10-15mph on the flat and about 5mph on a small incline. When I stop to let traffic pass me, it goes back to a normal idle again. Doesn't overheat or make odd noises. Today, I'll test the coil packs and regap the plugs to negate them. Replaced the MAP and coolant sensors, no change..

Yes, I've searched everywhere including YouTube to no avail. I even replaced the trans ATF hoping the quality of the old fluid was the problem. I'll eventually sort it but right now it's a struggle, with so many sensors etc. When I do find the problem, I'll post it to help others..

Hi.. My automatic Fabia is running really slowly, starts and idles ok, but upon driving it, it struggles to get to 40mph and after about a mile it drops to 10mph (5mph on a slight gradient) shifting gears doesn't help it any, I have to just put on the indicators and pull in to let cars pass safely. When not under load, the engine revs freely as before. The throttle valve (removed, cleaned and tested) opens ok when you rev it. I pulled and cleaned the MAP sensor (14.5psi / 6.5psi) when I saw a P0106 on the scanner but it's gone now with no other codes showing. Checked all vacuum pipes and can't find any leaks (brakes work ok). Coil packs and plugs were replaced last year as was the exhaust and cat. My scanner shows all the correct numbers and smooth operation of the TPS pedal when I display the graphs and voltages/pressures and temperature readings on live data mode. The engine has 90k miles on it and has performed faultlessly for years, getting serviced once a year, but this problem happened without warning (no overheating or odd sounds) whilst driving about 65mph along a dual carriageway, suddenly, power was lost and without any engine warning lamps, we managed to limp it into a carpark. I'm struggling to find out what this problem is, so if anyone has any suggestions, it'd be appreciated. Tomorrow I'll fit a new coolant sensor and MAP sensor to see if that helps. Does this engine have an EGR valve? Could that be the problem? If so where is it situated?

It is OBD11.. Used it on many cars including this 2006 Fabia to pull codes. Previously, I had a P0106 on the Fabia which went away after I cleaned the MAP sensor. Does ABS too which is why I bought it..

Checked the pipe and it's good, no cracks or leaks. Checked all the pipework but can't see any vacuum leaks. Removed the MAP sensor and cleaned it with brake cleaner. 14psi engine off and 6.5psi at idle. No codes anywhere and it starts and idles fine and doesn't overheat. Initially it'll get to a max of 40mph then gradually slow right down to 10mph or less if its on an incline. Plugs firing ok, now misfiring and fuel pressure good at the Schrader test point Got a new MAP sensor and coolant sensor incoming. The throttle body opens and shuts when I apply a voltage to it and my scanner shows smooth movement in my throttle position sensor (numbers and graph). Totally baffled with this as my Autel scanner shows no codes and good live data. Any suggestion would be appreciated.. 😕

Hi.. I think I need to replace the accelerator pedal kit on our Fabia as the throttle valve isn't opening. Checked the operation of the valve on my bench and its fine. Problem is, finding the replacement number of the pedal assembly before I remove the old one. New ones are all pointed at LHD cars. Ours is a 6Y2.. 2006 Fabia 1 1.4 16v (75hp) automatic RHD. Does anyone know the correct part no. for this item? I'm getting such a variation in numbers when I look around.. 🤔

It will eventually get to about 40mph max. on the flat, but slows dramatically on a slight incline even with foot hard down. Shifting in into a low gear makes no difference. Looking into the throttle body at idle, then pressing the pedal all the way down to try to rev it, only opened the valve butterfly about 5mm. Surely with your foot planted, the throttle body should be wide open? 🤔

It starts but when you take it out, it has no power anywhere. 5mph climbing a small incline. Had to activate the emergency flashers to get home. Think it might be the throttle pedal assembly..

I opened up the throttle body and applied 12v to the dc motor which controls the opening of the butterfly valve and it worked perfectly... ..so, maybe the problem is the accelerator pedal sensor not supplying the correct voltage to the ECU. ...wish it was just cable operated! I 😕

Hi.. Still trying to sort out this 2006 Fabia 1.4 16v automatic. It has no codes, all coil packs firing and plugs look OK and are fairly new. It starts and idles just fine but has no power to drive at normal speeds. I was told it was the autobox, so as the ATF was brown and thin, we did a complete fluid change on it but it made no difference. Looking into the throttle body, it looks clean but with the car idling, when you floor the throttle pedal, the butterfly in the TB barely opens. I notice that there is no cable operating the TB, just an electrical device. I have removed the TB to inspect it. Question is, should the TB fully open when the engine is revved high? Ours barely opens, maybe about 5mm. Could the attachment that operates the opening of the TB be at fault? 🤔

I'm getting an idea now how the overflow/drain plug thing works so hopefully, when I get on it, it'll not need any special tools (that I don't have). If this cures the slow running, after winter we'll pull the sump and replace the filter and refill again. Thank you to everyone for your advice, interest and downloads. It's much appreciated. 👍

I imagine that there is a long overflow pipe inside that inspection hole which will allow the fluid to overflow when it reaches the correct level. From the drawing, it looks like a square driver is needed to remove it. I have 3/8" and 1/2" drivers from socket sets, so can I assume that one of these will do or will it be some VW special tool of a different size.. It's such a pain trying to guess this stuff when the car is 10miles away sitting on a gravel drive..

Just read it.. Its quite an involved process and what I thought was a drain screw, isn't! It seems you drain it through the inspection hole in the skid plate but the manual doesn't detail exactly what I need to remove as this also somehow, is the ATF level indicator when filling. Trying to imagine how a drain hole can also be a fluid level without images to explain.. 🤔

Well, I got under to take a look and I found the drain plug screw at the back of the autobox. Next, I scoped for the filler plug and found that too with its black plastic cap toward the front. I've ordered 5L of Comma MVATF PLUS which has the right (VW G 052 990) spec for the Jatco 001 box. My question is, given that the box takes 5L, and I assume this is for the torque converter too, ..how do I know when I've added the right amount of ATF as there is no dipstick to guide me? 🤔

Thank you for all the replies, we'll look into changing the AT Thanks.. Do you need any specialist gear to drain and refill the gearbox? I believe there's a drain plug underneath. Is there a filler port on the auto gearbox? Can I assume that refilling it is just a matter of squirting in the right amount of ATF until it runs out of the port? Sorry for all the questions but the car is 10 miles from me and I can't remember what it looks like underneath. (I have changed the engine oil and filter twice).

It has 1, 2, 3, D. Not sure if it's a wet or dry box or whether it has a torque converter. There is no dipstick to check the fluid level, so I was thinking, ..could it just be low fluid level, causing the ECU to be putting the engine into 'limp'mode?

Hi.. My 2006 1.416v Automatic Fabia with 90k miles has started driving really slow, with no power at all.. We put it into a local garage who told us it's the gearbox. I find this strange as there is no high revving slippage as you would get I imagine, from slipping clutch plates etc. It just doesn't want to drive as normal, and in fact it's so slow as to be unsafe as I had to put on the flashers to get it home safely. Doesn't matter which gear it is in, there is no power. In fact it was down to 5mph on a hill coming home in any gear.. Could it really be the autobox? 🤔

Cheers, The steel wheels do have discs but after each winter, despite derusting treatment the year before, they do look awful when I inspect them again in springtime. I use Asda for our tyres as we get a decent discount with my wife being an Asda delivery driver. I priced 205/45x16's at £62 for midrange tyres. It's a really good car (1.4 16v) and well used and maintained, so it deserves a treat..

Hi.. My 2006 1.4 16v Fabia has poor looking and rusty 14" steel wheels (despite regular repainting) with 185 tyres. I have seen a few ads for 16" Fabia VRS wheels with 205 tyres. Would these be a straight swap and fit ok? Cheers, Steve

Well, no hot cat (..our wee Tilly or the car's!) burning problems. I decided to go for ground zero and fit 4x new plugs and 4x new coilpacks. This time I bought BBT packs as ECP have a big discount on offer, saving me 55gbp. Previously, I bought a HAAS coilpack, but its thicker than the originals and looks very ungainly, whereas the BBT units look more like the original coilpacks. To anyone reading this, I would just spend the extra fiver and get the BBT units.. The result is the car now runs lovely and smooth.. The mpg figure on the computer are showing 75mpg (and 62mpg average) which is a lot better than it was before if the numbers are real. Since I bought the car, it would hesitate a little in D when cold so I would run it in 3 until it heated up. Now, that has gone too. Smooth all the time. Filled up with BP fuel and hopefully an end to problems (for now anyway). Just want to thank Wino and Tech1e for the advice. It was much appreciated. Hope this thread will help someone else with similar problems.. Happy now!

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It says BKY on the belt guard next to No.1 cylinder. I'll be under it tomorrow when its light. Thanks.. 👍

Its dark now, so i'll try again tomorrow. Thanks for the advice so far, I'm sure I'll get there in the end.

You mean the catalytic converter? Never thought of that, so maybe the ignition is at fault after all if fuels getting into the cylinders. The plugs were all sparking well though and I tried the new coil pack in each one in turn.

Thanks for the advice, more info later..