andrewclark55

Hi Linni I already have an AutoPhix 7610 (same as Ancel VDV700) that can read and clear codes and do VAG battery Registration. But apart from the U140600 code (now erased) nothing else is showing up.

Thanks Linni I had actually seen that one when I started the battery change job but as I don't actually have VCDS I didn't take much notice of it. However it is clear from the video that all these parameters are important so thanks for drawing it to my attention. As an update I did not get much help from the dealer yesterday as disappointingly the just did the oil change service and MOT and did not spend much time on the electrical issue claiming that the car behaved itself with no faults found. That is until the driver brought it back to me and it started beeping again as we stood beside it in the driveway! I may take it to a guy here in Edinburgh who does ECU updates from Quantum Tuning - but that's another story

Yes, I am connecting to the bulkhead point. Not sure entirely why - is it because of where the current is monitored by the system on the terminal? I possibly did not note that point when first using charger... so many things to know!

I'm really not sure but as I had the bonnet open for a long while trying to see if there was any way to measure the static current with it closed I wondered if it was just warning me that the battery was running down to a more critical level? On the other hand I have had it on trickle charge again all night so it was fully charged (about 12,8v) till a few hours ago when I took it off.

OK. I will try that. and let you know if it has any effect.

Thanks Warrior. I must admit I'm getting to the point of not messing with it any more. It is going in to the dealer tomorrow anyway for MOT and oil service so I will probably just have to get the chequebook out and write a blank cheque(!) for an investigation, While I was out in the garage resetting the battery serial number and (apparently successfully) after a short while it started with VERY loud beeping that I could do nothing to stop. I plugged in the scanner again and it came up with a new fault as per photo attached... Does that mean I need to provide authorisation for something? Who knows!! Ever get the feeling of being out of your depth...

@Warrior193 Thanks. That's what I suspected. Another challenge! Are there any specific fuses that I should NOT risk pulling out?

Can anyone suggest how best to track down what is causing the drain? I have the necessary meter tools including the AutoPhix 7610/Ancel VD700 (they are the same).

Yes, and I did originally put the actual battery serial number in. When things started going pear shaped I went back in and set it to what it had been but you have a good point, and I will try changing it again,

The original Skoda battery was EFM so I just kept the new one as close as possible in spec to avoid problems. Hmmmmph!

...thought I had better add a photo of the new Varta battery Slightly higher Ah at 70 and CCA of 760A vs. 680A for the old battery.

JR - That's really helpful! I didn't realise about the bonnet open stopping it from going to sleep! That makes sense as yesterday I was getting readings of around 200mA (still too high) after working on the diagnostics for some time. >I would suspect what you did to "register" the battery, do you have a print out of what coding the battery management module has? I have attached a few photos of the scanner screen, including the original battery parameters, 69Ah, EFB, Manuf. JCB, Serial 1111111111 now replaced with 70Ah, EFB, Manuf. Varta Serial 1111111111 And the the U140600 fault code (now cleared by using the Erase Code facility on the scanner) Did I miss something on setting up the new battery? (BMS Registration menu option on the Autophix 7610)

Hi @Silver1011 Thanks for taking time to respond. >the U140600 fault code suggests that the car is detecting a higher than expected current draw. That is indeed the case. After a run this morning I checked the current draw and it was around 550mA steadily, which is far too high. >What was the reason for changing the battery? 5 years old and was dropping overnight to 11.5v. Yet there were no beeps prior to the battery change. It was just struggling to start the engine even in the garage, and would not have coped with a frost. I was however putting it on an intelligent Optimate 4 trickle charger once or twice a week (without disconnecting it) but that does not charge above 1A so I assumed would not damage the alternator diodes. >What non-standard electrical items are fitted to the car i.e. dash cam, phone charger, anything plugged into the 12V sockets? 1. Dashcam yes, but it does not draw much and I have unplugged it for the time being anyway. No difference, still beeps. 2. Because of the issues with the previous battery I bought a small cigar-socket digital voltmeter, Likewise now unplugged, no difference. I am trying to think of the best way to track down whatever is pulling around 0.5A of additional current without upsetting the car systems, If I pull out one fuse at a time are there any critical ones I should avoid pulling altogether? If so could I try just measuring the very small voltage drop across the fuse for those, or is that going to be too small to be reliable?

Having had finger burned previously changing a battery on my old Octavia VRS and ending up having to take it to a dealer to reset DTC codes I approached it more cautiously with my Kodiaq. I bought an Autophix 7610 scanner that can reset VAG codes and do Battery Registration. I used a small 12V SLA battery to keep the electronics alive (or so I thought) while the battery was disconnected, Yet on fitting the new (Varta EFB) battery and entering the details in registration I started the engine with high hopes only to find the warning lights for most of the sensors went crazy! This included a steering angle sensor fault and a brake fault which did not clear after running Erase all codes. I then tried a suggestion from another forum to turn the steering from lock to lock. That did indeed clear the steering angle sensor fault and I took the car for a test drive to check all was working which it seemed to be. Until tonight that is when the car sitting in the garage started emitting a series of three beeps every so often. On checking with the code reader I found it was now showing a Gateway Fault, namely "UI40600 Static Current, too high" Checked the battery drain with a clamp multimeter and it was 160mA initially then rose to around 500mA without me changing anything! I cleared the Fault code and it stays cleared but the beeps are still sounding. I have had to put the battery on charge overnight just so it will start in the morning as at that level of discharge it otherwise might not. I wondered if it had somehow blown the alternator diodes but it seems to be charging OK at over 14v when the engine is running. Anyone got any ideas what might be wrong here? These damn vehicles are so complex now that it will be a matter of experience to know where to look! I am reluctant to start randomly unplugging fuses to test the current draw as I could end up with an undriveable vehicle, and I have it booked in for its MOT on Monday! Any suggestions gratefully received. Regards Andrew