andrewclark55

Hi Guys Once again did not get any notifications of your replies. I don't know why that is. I finally got the Fakro connector off by sliding the white piece downwards and tested that the DTC is still there after clearing and leaving the cable disconnected. So not an aerial fault, leaving cable or head unit fault. Resistance measurement shield to Earth is 140 ohms and there is 5v on the core to earth. I am presently not seeing any significant parasitic drain so rather than attempt to get at the Amundsen head unit I will run with it for a while and see if it returns. Thanks for all contributions to date.

Sorry @Warrior193. I did not get any notifications of replies - again! No, the problem is not resolved but still working on diagnostics after dealer had the car for six days and could not find any fault. But I now have two clear DTCs. B110311 Digital Radio antenna 1 Short Circuit to ground U40600 Static current too high (this one is intermittent) With the help of ChatGPT (which can now even correctly interpret photos!) I am homing in on the aerial fault as it might be stopping the car from sleeping as I believe the shark fin aerial has an amplifier. But Having taken down the rear section of headliner I have been unable to disconnect the blue FAKRA connector. Anyone know how to release it? I will upload a photo.

I have had an ongoing problem for 2 years with my 2018 Kodiaq .2.0l TSI battery losing charge over a few days and the battery charging randomly at different charge rates. To date I have had: 2 replacement batteries (at my cost) then under Extended Warranty (now expired) 1 replacement negative battery lead (with sensor) 1 replacement alternator Symptoms (monitored with Ancel Battery Manager device and multimeter) Battery discharges in a few hours from 100% SoC /12.8v to around 65% then continues slowly after that over several days Charging when driving starts at 14.3v but even when battery is low quickly drops and does not get to full charge even after half an hour of driving Static current too high warning now showing on ODBII monitor but dealer had the car for a week and did not find any fault Also shows "DAB aerial short circuit to earth" warning I need to gather more evidence to persuade dealer to pursue. All suggestion welcome! A friend has a new Kodiaq VRS petrol with identical symptoms. Is this a known issue?

@nta16 Obviously it is not a patch on VCDS but it is better than a lot of the other cheapo scanners in being able to actually write some data and erase codes (like just before an MOT when you suddenly see an Engine Management Unit fault?? :))

Thanks NIgel. Your post at least brings a smile to my face :) PS the Autophix 7610 is not a bad scanner - It has specific modes for VAG cars and Battery recalibration for a new battery (even a change to AGM from the original EFB-whatsit) and it told us correctly that the left-rear wheel sensor had thrown a wobbly.

@nta16 Thanks very much Nigel for your very full and detailed information. I'm an old-school engineer and understand fully that it needs knowledge and understanding of the systems we work on to diagnose issues. In short, you have to first know how it is supposed to work before understanding why it it isn't working. And yes, there is far too much reliance on computer diagnosis by younger apprentices unless they refer the results to someone experienced in that particular engine or subsystem who just knows what is likely to have gone wrong with it! But these auto systems are, as you say, complex and components interrelated enough to completely mislead. For example my Son's Octavia VRS recently showed up with both a tyre pressure warning and an ABS fault. He was quite alarmed by these until I pointed out that there was also a wheel sensor fault code and both systems rely on the same sensor. We got the sensor changed and both faults were fixed immediately. So to your point about refrigerant I DID actually mean engine coolant as that is what heats up the radiator within the heating system. In this case we are talking of a lack of hot air flow into the driver's feet, not an air-conditioning problem so I'm fairly sure we don't need to go there. It does seem likely that one of the flaps is stuck hence my blast-the-hell out of it strategy with the fan on full power, and the temperature turned right up. I will need to drive it a bit further to see if we have achieved any improvement, but meantime thanks to you and everyone else who has thrown their hat in the ring :). Regards Andrew

@linni Thanks. I will clear all the codes and then if the problem still persists will check that one out.

Not being sarcastic at all. Being an engineer I don't know why the heater would have any connection with the gearbox. Can you kindly explain the logic of what you have discovered!

Interesting! How the heck did you figure that one out?

@linni Sorry - do you mean in respect of my original heater problem?

@linni >Get the gearbox thermostat changed (yes, gearbox). Thei fail very often. Doesn`t cost much. You have me puzzled now! I this in response to the DTC code I posted?

Hi Skomaz >I believe that fault code is usually associated with a key coding issue or immobilizer issue. I'd be tempted to clear it and see if it comes back. That could be the case as my key battery went flat recently. I'll try clearing the code as you suggest as there is also a separate warning about that. >I'd also do a few cycles of the flap reset just to see if that helps. Yep! >Hows the car engine temperature? Ok on a run or varying? Steady as usual at 90deg (12 o'clock). Rock solid. >Finally check the coolant header tank... Is it a 'mit silikat' one with the silicon bag in it ( I can't remember if the 2.0 tsi originally had one or not ). If it did and it's split that can cause the heater matrix to block. It is just a normal plastic tank on this one. Usually half-full when hot. Releasing the pressure cap slightly when hot caused it to rise to nearly overflow, which is why I wondered if there might be air in the coolant locked in somewhere...?

Hi Nigel //The hot air isn't coming in from outside but that means you are also not getting fresh air in the car just recirculating what's there which is OK for short periods but not longer periods, probably has something about this in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Yes I know that but flipping from one mode to the other opens and closes flaps and seems yo have got air flowing again. //Have you have the coolant level checked to see if it's low, possible leak, might be lack of maintenance but some get away with that longer than others or a faulty or break somewhere. Yes. as per my original post it was the first thing that i checked. Will do some more testing and see if my random trial and error approach has done anything!

Hi Nigel I am not at all sure how my post ended up in 'Hellos and Goodbyes' but perhaps the Moderator can move the whole thread for me? As to the car there don't appear to be any relevant codes showing up on my AutoPhix 7610 scanner which I updated at your suggestion first. I did however, again try the fan on full blast and changed from External to Recycled air and there soes seem to be a bit more air coming through. Does anyone know where I can find a definitive explanation of all the Skoda Kodiaq codes? There are codes showing on the scan but none of them seems relevant - except possibly this one. (see photo). Anyone know what "not authorised" means?

@skomaz sorry for delayed feedback but I did not till now have a long enough journey to test your suggestion with a properly heated up engine. Results:- 1, Got the two suggested buttons flashing alternately but no change in heat output to my feet Tried full fan and max temp again. No joy. Switched off Climatronic control. Likewise Tried all the heating buttons one by one at full blast There is warmth in the heater unit but it does not feel to me that there is much hot air coming down above the ankles Any further suggestions gratefully received...

Thanks Skomaz. I will try that today and report back.

Even with engine fully warmed up to normal running temp I have cold air coming into the car. I tried blasting it up the motorway with the internal temperature knob turned up to Max (29 Deg C) on both sides and it got slightly better. There is plenty of coolant in the engine. I am suspecting an air lock. How else to clear it? Andrew

@Breezy_Pete >Dashcams plugged into outlets that stay on permanently are notorious for this problem. I have just learned something, then. Believe it or not my Smart Meter contributed to the issue. The meter flashes LEDs every few seconds and I think probably kept triggering the dashcam. Tomorrow I will try to find a fuse that is only on with the ignition, and maybe fit a two-way switch to keep it on if parked in a bad area? Thanks for the input. Andrew

I am having battery issues with my 2018 model Kodiaq 2.0 TSi (petrol). It was replaced with an identical Varta EFB battery from Tayna less than 11 months ago and teh BMS Adaptation process run then. Battery is going from fully charged overnight down to about 12.2 v after charging at 14.4 v when driving. When I open the car in the morning it drops to 11.8 or 11.9 v - but still starts the car (in a warm garage). Local Skoda Dealer had no Auto-electrics time available for a month, so suggested I call Skoda Assistance and they sent out an AA patrolman (!) who recommended taking the car into the dealer under an emergency procedure. Car was in dock for 8 days before I got it back on Thursday with the battery control module replaced. They reckon they had tested everything including the battery and all was fine. It wasn't, the battery is still running down overnight. My Autophix 7610 scanner reckons there is still a fault. U140600 Static Current too high (see photo). But I am not sure, having tested the current when the car is asleep at 155mA, whether that is too high or if my recharging the battery on my charger could be causing that? Does anyone know what the quiescent current should be with the car locked, allowed to go to sleep, and then measured? (I have a multimeter in series with the battery left connected till it goes to sleep). Hot off-the-Press Update: When I unplug the Dashcam current drops to less than 10mA so I think that may be the culprit! Happy to receive any suggestions Andrew

@ApertureS Hi and thanks for confirming what I suspected regarding fuses! As it happens I resolved the beeping "issue" (see my post of 10 January... embarrassing!

@linni Wow! I didn't know you could get that much out of them without making physical changes to the engine. I was impressed with my 47% increase in power but even more with the torque changes as it makes for a much better drive with gear changes at a much more sensible level. 600 Nm is a heck of a lot of torque. What does the engine sound like and did you have to upgrade the suspension at all?

That's not a standard VRS is it?

Hi Guys.. Talk about the long arm of coincidence... You won't believe this... I put it into my dealer on Monday as a result of hearing 3 beeps every minute. No Fault Found. I took it back today for full diagnostics (£138/hr!) and got my Son to bring me home. As we got out of his car in the driveway he said "Dad there's a beeping noise from the garage"... It was coming from the Smart Meter!!! Being high pitched it was bouncing off the car and appeared to be from the engine. I have just retrieved the car from the dealer with some degree of embarrassment but at least no cost . And called my energy supplier to fix the meter 😞 Incidentally my guy at Auto Installs upgraded my ECU firmware in November with software from Quantum Tuning. At £349 it is the best money I have ever spent on a car. Power from 177 BHP to 260 BHP, Torque from 320 Nm to 400 Nm. It is like a different car now to drive. I am really pleased with the Quantum package.

Hi Rooted Rang them this afternoon after seeing your post but they can't even look at it til 17th so I took it to my man at Auto Installs. See my response to Linni for the outcome! This thing is growing arms and legs...

@Linni I took the car today to my guy at Auto Installs who uses VCDS. THe tool showed the battery Registration as blank! This implies my device has not written the data properly, but more worryingly it did not allow him to enter it either. Back to the dealer in the morning... 😞