GaSelle

Yes - that is the difference between without and with PLA right there.

I can assure you, that I don´t have any tan/beige in my house either

Each to their own, I suppose - I´d take classy black over awfull tan/brown any day of the week

That´s just not a permanent fix. Someone in the international Enyaq group on Facebook is onto something. I can recognize some of the behaviour he describes from the way my ID.3 operates (potato/potato with the Enyaq, when it comes to this). When removing the fuse you´re maybe just resetting or "waking up" the module. My car is parked in a closed garage, so it´s never locked when home. If I send a command via the app, it can take some time before the car reacts. However, if I send the command and then open a door in the car, so it "wakes up", it reacts instantly. My bet is, that the software update coming this spring will take care of this issue; or at least improve it.

No; but it comes and goes - my VW equivelant has been very stable since summer (currently driving an ID.3).

I have to this day never seen a VAG (Skoda/VW/etc.) that had wiring prepared for features that the car wasn´t ordered with. That being said, most features can be retrofitted. I don´t know if you have such services available in the UK, but here in Denmark we have multiple companies making a living of doing "like factory" retrofits on VAG cars. In general, it´s cheaper to order the features you want from the factory than having them retrofitted.

Are you just commenting on all threads in here, relevant or not?

Use same mail/pass on both phones. You can´t have one car on to seperate accounts; but one account on two (or more) phones.

No, but it seems like Skoda is lacking behind VW when it comes to software releases, so that might be the case for recalls as well. For VW´s in Denmark it has been announced, that a visit to the dealer is necessary to replace the 12V battery and update to software 3.0.

Same platform, same issues. Mine was built in March this year and is due for the recall, so I assume the same goes for ID.4/Enyaq/Q4/"feel-free-to-add-more-MEB´s"

Currently driving an ID.3, which I guess is "potato/potato" compared to the Enyaq technical wise. There is an upcoming campaign where they are changing the 12V battery (and upgrading to SW 3.0), so something similar will most likely come to the Enyaq.

If any tools are included in a car, they are for emergency use only - not for use twice a year to swap summers for winters etc. And as mentioned, it´s normal for new cars not to have such tools included, since they either have "self healing" tires or a emergency compressor with some tire sealer. So I really don´t understand the fuzz; if you need to do brake work or swap tires around, you will have to buy proper tools no matter what.

Ordered one today after testing ID.4, Ioniq 5 and EV6. Coming from an ID.3, so not new to EV´s. The ID.3 was our second car, but due to changes in my work I sold my 5-series diesel recently, so the ID.3 became our primary family car. Enyaq 80 Sportline Graphite Grey Family Basis (tinted rear windows, sunshades, USB ports in the rear and a 220V socket) Drive Assist Plus (Travel Assist etc.) Parking Plus (Area View) Convenience Plus (Convenience Basis is standard on a Sportline, so this basically adds electric tailgate and the "foot sensor") Comfort Seat Basis (electric adjustable drivers seat with memory) I don´t know how the danish cars are specced compared to the UK ones, but heatpump, matrix lights etc. is standard on a Sportline over here. I was lucky and got on an existing order, so it´s due for production CW8 next year - fingers crossed.

+1. I´m 202cm tall (that´s 6 foot, some inches and a cup of tea in the UK) and uses a size 50 (is that 15 in the UK?) - and I don´t fit in an EV6. The seats in the EV6 is mounted so low, that you can´t get your feet under them. The roofline in the back is low and the boot is smaller. The exterior looks great in some colors, but the car is a lot smaller than the Enyaq. "Why would anybody buy an EV6"? (It´s a joke; but what a silly comment.)

Yes, the car had ACC - it didn’t create any issues.

They started to act at 5K, were replaced at 15-18K-ish km. But I´m so glad, that you´re enjoying yourself

I'll stick around, don't worry

I have to disappoint you. I sense, that I'm a bit younger than you. So I'm too young to have had a chance to own an Allegro. Second, I've not complained about most aspects about my Superb, only about the clutches.

I´m not negative about Skoda as such; still think the Superb is a great car, good value for money, great design, unbeatable space and a lot of technology. But if the clutches in the DQ200 can´t be fixed, and they can´t supply any other petrol powered Superb´s (with DQ381) then I´m done with it - for now.

It´s my second Superb 3V 1.4 TSI DSG. The clutches failed in the first one at 5K km, and was replaced. Car was sold at 65K km. It drove fine in the meantime. New Superb arrived in CW22 this year, and clutches started slipping last week at 8K km. Called the dealer who informed me that: * 2018 Superb has the exact same cluth as the 2016 had *They were willing to replace the clutches to the same ones, as in the old car (which obvioúsly did not last long anyway) *That my old car had the cluthes replaced again after I sold it to them *They did not think there would be any further development fixing these issues. According to them the issue is isolated to Denmark, Holland and Northern Germany due to "climate". *They did not have any prices on the 2.0 TSI 190, and delivery would not be before "sometime next year" (280 is to uneconomical for my driving, and don´t fancy VAG TDI´s) So yes, a 5-series. Not superior in material quality, noise levels or space - but more refined, better drivetrain, better seat position and powerfull enough for me. And no clutches that can slip

Nope. Sad but true.

Sold it. Delivered in CW22. This week it started doing 'maxi slip' in third gear, just like the old one did. So yesterday I signed the papers on a BMW 520d Saloon.

No, the wires are not there. You need a new wiring harness for the sensors front and back. Then the additional four sensors, holders for them, new PLA/PDC box, a button and possibly two new rear ABS sensors. Then some coding.

Double clicking like a PC mouse, where I hold down the button on the second click. Indicators are flashing, then nothing more happens.

Did’nt work.