Favorit Fan

Well it turned out that the camshaft massively improved the torque of the engine, but only gained 6 Bhp: so I went back to the drawing board for the exhaust to take advantage of the torque instead.

View Advert 15 " Auriga alloys: Excellent condition, nearly new tyres For sale: my set of 4 Auriga 15 inch alloys in factory metallic black. These are 38mm offset, and have been on my Felicia for 2 1/2 years, (Summer use only.), but the Nankang low profile tour sport tyres have only covered around 1100 miles, all have at least 5mm of tread, and are really grippy. One wheel does have a scratch across one of the spokes, (first one pictured individually .), but it is only lacquer depth, and I will attempt to repair it over the bank holiday weekend. However the others are unmarked. I appreciate that posting four heavy wheels would be costly, so I am prepared to ship them via forum members network after full payment by bank transfer. Call 07510288646 before 9pm please. I have reduced the price because I haven't had chance to repair the scratch. Thanks for looking. Advertiser Favorit Fan Date 22/08/21 Price £295 Category Wheels & Tyres Wheel Size R15 Tyre Season Summer Shipping Estimate £0

Also, they are not repairable, so when removing them use a spanner on the flat sections of the valve body: the nut at the larger end of the valve should only be used to counter the force of removing the brake pipe union!.

I suspect that you might have a faulty brake pressure regulator valve, if your car has them. They are screwed in to the side of the master cylinder, and limit the hydraulic pressure to the rear. I had to replace one of mine about 3 years ago, so I did the pair for safety, genuine skoda items were only about £9 each, but my dealer has stopped selling felicia parts now. I can only suggest that you try swapping the two valve positions to see if the problem then moves to the other rear wheel. Unless you can find them for sale. Good luck

The car is not broken!!; it runs and drives perfectly, and has a long MOT. there is something causing accelerated wear in the alternator rectifier, which I will be fixing when I put the car back on the road this summer.

It didn't fail weekly, or even monthly, the shortest that a new one lasted is two months or so, so it's not an urgent problem: I just keep a spare in the glove box. I was just trying to fix it before I sell the car.

P. S. The battery hasn't necessarily cured the rectifier fault, I won't find that out until I start driving the car regularly again in summertime

Getting the car diagnosed is the difficult part, since the Auto Electrician retired: he was the only electrician with a code reader that worked within 10 miles. I suppose I'll have to buy OBD 11, or some Ross tech items if I'm going to keep the car!.

Hi. i used my original 1.3 thrust bearing with the 1.6 clutch. I cannot remember exactly why i did that, it was a long time ago, but i found a nice clean Valeo thrust bearing from my 1.6 clutch kit in my box of spares today. so i would recommend using the original thrust bearing if it isn't worn out: it would be a real pain if you have to change it again afterwards.. good luck with the job.

All sorted thanks guys: It was the battery, it showed a voltage of 12.6V before i used it last weekend(A day after it had been charged.), so i thought it was fine, but today after another 16Hr charge, it still didnt want to work! even with the extra earth wire attached. So i swapped it for my Fabia battery and it started first try, and then still started without the extra earth lead, so i'll have to get a new battery.

Yes because I put in an extra "ground" wire from the suspension turret top to the battery - about 2 years ago. You raise an interesting point though : I will try replacing the engine earth wire with my new 70 amp wire at the weekend.

I didn't change any original wiring, I simply added a 70 amp wire from the battery to the bolt on terminal on the rear of the alternator.

The genuine skoda clutch will have thicker friction material on it, so will last longest, copies work but don't have to prove how long they can last. I used the 1.6 because it has stronger springs in the plate to cope with greater torque generated by the 1.6 engine, there is no proof that they are actually strong enough for my engines output, just that both torque figures are very similar in my engine and the 1.6 standard engine.

I was advised by an auto electrician (who has now retired, and wouldn't do the job. ), to replace the wire supplying 12V to my alternator to cure the repeated blowing of my rectifier. I read the manual, and attempted to do it myself but didn't realise that it was not a direct wire. So now I have a clock and stereo working, but when I turn the key they go off and nothing works, not even dashboard lights, just the starter solenoid or a relay clicks.

Hi. Has anyone had any experience with an Immobiliser emulator in a Felicia?. Something like this Ebay item: 264721728717 I think I have burnt out the ECU in my 1.3 felicia, and this, coupled to an ECU from my local breakers yard seems to be the cheapest way to fix it. And would it matter which suffix code is on the replacement ECU?, as mine is a "C" but the replacement one is an "N". Thanks.

I can confirm that the 1.6 clutch fits the 1.3 engine: I've been using one for about 10,000 miles now, for better bite for my torque tuned engine. Something is bugging me about the release bearing though: I can't remember which one I used. I'll check for you at the weekend and post which one I used.

It has had the recall yes, before I bought it, but the only other problem it has had in 3 years was caused by a broken sensor wire, and I intend to keep it for two more years yet, but I only do 7000 miles on average. Thanks for the advice, but it's not viable for me to use new injectors, as I have already lost £500 on the car when fixing the broken wire.

It's just turned 141,000. The guy that recovered the car told of a passat that he fetched off of the M1 that no. 3 injector had failed, but the owner had had 1 & 2 replaced two weeks earlier..

Sorry, can you quote me an item number or phone number from them please : all the injectors I can find on ebay are from Germany, and my Google search drew a blank. Thanks.

Thanks for that, I'll check them out.

I didn't kill all four but I've been advised that the others will die within the next 6 months as they are all the same age, and high mileage. Also I hope to save the coding and recovery truck fees by having them done together.

Can anyone recommend an injector specialist who is prepared to recondition the dead Siemens injectors from my 1.6 tdi CAYC engine in my 2010 fabia please.. Having tried over a dozen different specialists between me and my garage mechanic with no luck, I'm beginning to lose hope: as the car has been off the road for a fortnight now, and we've already been forced to cancel one caravan holiday, and also my insurance runs out in two weeks time.