Favorit Fan

For Sale: my original Alloys from my Fabia diesel sport. All 4 wheels are in need of restoration, but none of the damage is serious: there are no cracks. They have matching Hankook winter tyres that have been brilliant, and are hard wearing, but I stopped using them when two tyres were advisories on my MOT: they are cracking along the tread on the worst two, which still hold pressure, but the other pair still have 4mm of tread.. I am looking for £125 for the set, and will deliver them through the member network after a bank transfer of the asking price. I'm selling these exclusively through Briskoda for the next two weeks, then I will widen the advert. And I will be selling my Fabia at the end of summer too !.

For your clutch, you can fit the 1600cc Felicia item: it's the same diameter, but with stiffer springs built in , so it has better bite. I found it coped well in my modified 1300, and it's cheap because it's a standard item.

The Felicia MPI engine is based around the same block as the older Favorit and 136 rapid engines, but there are some differences; mainly the Felicia engine mount is built into the water pump housing at the top of the engine: the Estelle engines mounted lower, onto the frame that formed the rear body panel. Secondly, the MPI engine is distributorless: there is normally a drive gear fitted inside the timing chain cover, but you would have to check whether your Estelle distributor would mesh properly, but otherwise you should be able to get the MPI running on a carburettor/distributor/coil system with a shallow adaptor between inlet manifold and carb. For the full MPI system you would need an ECU: aftermarket or standard: possibly with the front half of the Felicia wiring loom fitted to your car, as a lot of the electrical connectors are Felicia specific (VW). Good luck

I know from the Felicia Haynes manual that the positioning of this end mount in your latest picture is fairly important: as they recommend that you spray paint around that upper plate to guide yourself to the correct position when re-fitting it, which I always did. Maybe yours has been put back out of position in the past, as I can't see any paint!, and that could be causing extra stress on the rear mount?. Trial and error fitting this one last and maybe loosely fitting whilst supported underneath by a trolley jack and see if it settles itself to a particular position...

You could try checking your engine earth strap for a start: add a good jump start cable as a second earth and see if that helps?. Failing that I would guess that there may be a fault with your ignition amplifier if it has one, then possibly some fault with the tachometer, or the printed circuit board that it sits on, but that would be a job for an expert: which I am not..

My 1997 Felicia used KWP200. a specific protocol that most cheaper and easily available OBD scanners don't use, because it was only used in very few types of car.. ☹️ I did eventually find a local Auto electrician who's £1000 code reader did work, and he showed me that fact. So it might be that your code reader will not work.

I'm not sure if there is one then, sorry: I've never owned or worked on a pickup . If there isn't an obvious wire that separates from the rest at the fuel pump end of the wiring, then it must use an earth connection somewhere behind the instrument cluster. I added a second earth strap from the suspension turret to the battery when my car developed electrical faults, and that cured the issue and is still working as far as I know. Sorry I can't help more, but my Felicia manual is tucked away up in my loft at the moment.

This seems to be a wiring or an earth connection issue.. can you plug in your old pump to check the guage again?. If not first clean up and refit the nearest earth connection to the fuel pump, I can't remember if it has one under the rear seat, it's been a while since I had my Felicia. If those two actions don't fix it, then you can replace the fuel guage after removing the instrument cluster: there is a video in the classic guides section. Be sure to disconnect your battery before starting the job though.

I understand: I got around that law by fitting a Favorit engine from before catalytic converters were law, therefore they cannot force improvements onto an engine after it has been made to meet the laws at the time it was made.

I'm not proposing that solution, D.fylaktos has had that offer from a wheel specialist: I haven't heard of that procedure before, but that doesn't make it impossible to do... I still believe that a set of different wheels would be cheaper than all of that work.

I found it cheapest and reliable to tune the 1.3 MPI engine for extra torque: Keep the factory exhaust manifold, buy a favorit twin down pipe and have a lambda sensor fitment welded in where the two pipes join into one, and buy the favorit lambda sensor with extra length wires to fit. Then buy the rest of the favorit exhaust to fit, but replace the centre silencer with straight sleeving tube. It works because the exhaust gives a torque peak at a similar revs to standard and the MPI inlet manifold gives a second peak at 5000 rpm, safely below the red line of the engine. Obviously this method deletes the catalytic converter, so keep all your old parts and refit them for the MOT test, (or local equivalent).

If he is a wheel specialist, and has a machine designed to hold the components of the wheel in place while he does the work then It should be fine: surely it would cost nearly as much as new wheels though, when you consider that you may be able to sell these scratched wheels for £ 200 euros or more, and spend it towards new wheels. Obviously you would have a unique set of wheels if he did this work, and the offset isn't a major issue: moving the spokes would result in larger offset , which effectively widens your car's stance, giving more grip. You would just have to check that the tyres didn't foul the wheel arches when the suspension is compressed. Buy some cheap wheel spacer plates and some threaded rod that matches your wheel bolts if needed to put two plates behind one front wheel, then without driving the car, sit on the front wing to compress your suspension and check for contact on top of the tyre. If you are unsure, repeat the test with a lump of play dough sat on top of your tyre. If there is contact without the play dough then you would be better to buy different wheels, because it would be even more expensive to change the car's suspension to correct the contact.

For sale here is my MX5 ; it has a current MOT all summer long, but it is an unfinished project. I am selling it because it is no longer practical: we recently had a new baby, so it cannot transport me and two kids, and I will not now have the spare time to finish the restoration. The bodywork is finished, except for a small patch of the boot lip, and is in excellent condition, I will add more pictures as soon as I can. The convertible roof has a small rip above the glass heated rear window, and needs replacing really: I always intended to get a hard top, so I just kept the car under a cover, which I will include. The chassis is good overall, but will require some more work in the near future, I am prepared to carry out this repair, if the buyer pays the asking price, but when it would get fixed I cannot guarantee any dates. The mileage is average, but the engine has been well looked after, always starts first time, and I have a lot of receipts for work carried out on the car, including a respray about four years ago. I bought the car after the Catalytic converter had been stolen, so for the MOT I had to buy a brand new one last year, as second hand ones are rare as hen's teeth. As for test drives, I haven't been using the car myself, other than to and from the MOT, but I will tax and insure the car for weekends once a viewing has been arranged, I cannot accommodate test drives on weeknights because of our newborn, but can offer short viewings. Please only call for details/viewing between 10am and 8pm. Now sold.

I bought a driver's side one from Euro car parts, and had no issues fitting it myself. As far as I know it's still on my car and working too, after 5 years, but I sold my Felicia last year. I can't remember exactly which brand it was, but I never had any issues with anything I've purchased from ECP.

Euro car parts had them for a bout £60 each last time I needed one, but that was 5 years ago now that I think about it. Driveshafts , I should add, sorry.

It might be possible to fix this problem: if your engine runs normally with the injection. The dashboard takes a signal from one of the ignition coil terminals, I don't know which one, you need an electrician, but there will be a pin on the ECU connection,which gives a signal for rpm, and you should be able to join the two wires together, then hopefully the guage will work.

Sorry, I was mistaken, the springs I saw are to fit my Fabia not Felicia : Ebay garage remembers the last car that you search for. I cannot find any Pro Sport springs listed. My strut tops were Golf Mk2 items direct from Compbrake in Lancashire.

I have had no experience with LO springs, but when I just checked your link a set of Pro Sport springs showed as an alternative. Pro Sport I do recommend as I fitted a set to my Felicia back in 2012, they were cheap, but give a really good ride, and after a little cosmetic tidying in 2018, they are still on the car and working today!. Beware though that when you lower a felicia it can suffer from the eccentric spring cap grating against the inner shock tower wall when full steering lock is applied!. I had to fit eccentric alloy top mounts from comp brake to counteract it, and those are not cheap.

The lambda sensor on my old Felicia was exactly where you want to put it: go for it!. My sensor boss was professionally welded on the top of the joint of the Favorit secondary pipe joint: there is just enough clearance for the wires, and you can buy a sensor for the Favorit with wires long enough to reach without modification!. The best bit is that the Favorit secondary pipe produces more torque with the MPI engine. Mine was modded four years ago and has just passed a third MOT in the hands of her new owner.

Thanks for the offer, but I sold my Felicia back in January.

That might have fixed it yes, but I don't think you can remap the standard ECU because of the old language that it uses. I could only find a Czech company that would physically change the main chip to a better one, or buy an aftermarket ECU for £600, and that was too expensive for the performance gain from the SK6, so I chose the Engitec Camshaft that works with the standard ECU instead.

It's mainly a check on the exhaust emissions: they have to check the gasses at a fast idle rate of at least 1500rpm, and my engine still wasn't smooth running for them to do that test, so it failed.

From what I can remember they were used in Skoda uk's Favorit rally cars with twin Carburettors and produced 115bhp reliably. I never found out their torque figures though. I had one, and fitted it in my MPI Felicia, but couldn't get it to idle smoothly enough to pass the MOT, (With the standard ECU.).

Thanks guys I'll check those wires one evening this week. My car has a remote fob for the central locking, and I changed the fob battery back in December.

Can someone tell me please : Does my 2008 Mk2 1.9 tdi sport have a "comfort pack" ecu, and if so, where is it located?. The Haynes manual makes one reference to a built-in systems interface, but when I turn to the section that I'm guided to, it's about a different electrical part. I have a couple of issues : My front electric windows died one by one, then one frosty morning last week my seat belt warning stayed on and beeping for my whole journey to work. And now the front passenger side door locks are only working intermittently: I'm wondering if some damp might have got into the ecu, as the fuses seem intact.