Favorit Fan

I understand: I got around that law by fitting a Favorit engine from before catalytic converters were law, therefore they cannot force improvements onto an engine after it has been made to meet the laws at the time it was made.

I'm not proposing that solution, D.fylaktos has had that offer from a wheel specialist: I haven't heard of that procedure before, but that doesn't make it impossible to do... I still believe that a set of different wheels would be cheaper than all of that work.

I found it cheapest and reliable to tune the 1.3 MPI engine for extra torque: Keep the factory exhaust manifold, buy a favorit twin down pipe and have a lambda sensor fitment welded in where the two pipes join into one, and buy the favorit lambda sensor with extra length wires to fit. Then buy the rest of the favorit exhaust to fit, but replace the centre silencer with straight sleeving tube. It works because the exhaust gives a torque peak at a similar revs to standard and the MPI inlet manifold gives a second peak at 5000 rpm, safely below the red line of the engine. Obviously this method deletes the catalytic converter, so keep all your old parts and refit them for the MOT test, (or local equivalent).

If he is a wheel specialist, and has a machine designed to hold the components of the wheel in place while he does the work then It should be fine: surely it would cost nearly as much as new wheels though, when you consider that you may be able to sell these scratched wheels for £ 200 euros or more, and spend it towards new wheels. Obviously you would have a unique set of wheels if he did this work, and the offset isn't a major issue: moving the spokes would result in larger offset , which effectively widens your car's stance, giving more grip. You would just have to check that the tyres didn't foul the wheel arches when the suspension is compressed. Buy some cheap wheel spacer plates and some threaded rod that matches your wheel bolts if needed to put two plates behind one front wheel, then without driving the car, sit on the front wing to compress your suspension and check for contact on top of the tyre. If you are unsure, repeat the test with a lump of play dough sat on top of your tyre. If there is contact without the play dough then you would be better to buy different wheels, because it would be even more expensive to change the car's suspension to correct the contact.

For sale here is my MX5 ; it has a current MOT all summer long, but it is an unfinished project. I am selling it because it is no longer practical: we recently had a new baby, so it cannot transport me and two kids, and I will not now have the spare time to finish the restoration. The bodywork is finished, except for a small patch of the boot lip, and is in excellent condition, I will add more pictures as soon as I can. The convertible roof has a small rip above the glass heated rear window, and needs replacing really: I always intended to get a hard top, so I just kept the car under a cover, which I will include. The chassis is good overall, but will require some more work in the near future, I am prepared to carry out this repair, if the buyer pays the asking price, but when it would get fixed I cannot guarantee any dates. The mileage is average, but the engine has been well looked after, always starts first time, and I have a lot of receipts for work carried out on the car, including a respray about four years ago. I bought the car after the Catalytic converter had been stolen, so for the MOT I had to buy a brand new one last year, as second hand ones are rare as hen's teeth. As for test drives, I haven't been using the car myself, other than to and from the MOT, but I will tax and insure the car for weekends once a viewing has been arranged, I cannot accommodate test drives on weeknights because of our newborn, but can offer short viewings. Please only call for details/viewing between 10am and 8pm. Now sold.

I bought a driver's side one from Euro car parts, and had no issues fitting it myself. As far as I know it's still on my car and working too, after 5 years, but I sold my Felicia last year. I can't remember exactly which brand it was, but I never had any issues with anything I've purchased from ECP.

Euro car parts had them for a bout £60 each last time I needed one, but that was 5 years ago now that I think about it. Driveshafts , I should add, sorry.

It might be possible to fix this problem: if your engine runs normally with the injection. The dashboard takes a signal from one of the ignition coil terminals, I don't know which one, you need an electrician, but there will be a pin on the ECU connection,which gives a signal for rpm, and you should be able to join the two wires together, then hopefully the guage will work.

Sorry, I was mistaken, the springs I saw are to fit my Fabia not Felicia : Ebay garage remembers the last car that you search for. I cannot find any Pro Sport springs listed. My strut tops were Golf Mk2 items direct from Compbrake in Lancashire.

I have had no experience with LO springs, but when I just checked your link a set of Pro Sport springs showed as an alternative. Pro Sport I do recommend as I fitted a set to my Felicia back in 2012, they were cheap, but give a really good ride, and after a little cosmetic tidying in 2018, they are still on the car and working today!. Beware though that when you lower a felicia it can suffer from the eccentric spring cap grating against the inner shock tower wall when full steering lock is applied!. I had to fit eccentric alloy top mounts from comp brake to counteract it, and those are not cheap.

The lambda sensor on my old Felicia was exactly where you want to put it: go for it!. My sensor boss was professionally welded on the top of the joint of the Favorit secondary pipe joint: there is just enough clearance for the wires, and you can buy a sensor for the Favorit with wires long enough to reach without modification!. The best bit is that the Favorit secondary pipe produces more torque with the MPI engine. Mine was modded four years ago and has just passed a third MOT in the hands of her new owner.

Thanks for the offer, but I sold my Felicia back in January.

That might have fixed it yes, but I don't think you can remap the standard ECU because of the old language that it uses. I could only find a Czech company that would physically change the main chip to a better one, or buy an aftermarket ECU for £600, and that was too expensive for the performance gain from the SK6, so I chose the Engitec Camshaft that works with the standard ECU instead.

It's mainly a check on the exhaust emissions: they have to check the gasses at a fast idle rate of at least 1500rpm, and my engine still wasn't smooth running for them to do that test, so it failed.

From what I can remember they were used in Skoda uk's Favorit rally cars with twin Carburettors and produced 115bhp reliably. I never found out their torque figures though. I had one, and fitted it in my MPI Felicia, but couldn't get it to idle smoothly enough to pass the MOT, (With the standard ECU.).