chimaera

Get your injectors checked out. If they're failing soot production will go way up.

Temperature gauge is not a useful indication here: it will read 90 *C at any actual temperature between 75 and 105 *C - it's basically a fancy indicator light. Apparently VAG's logic is that people get nervous when they see the temperature needle moving around.

Suspension is complicated, even on a simple layout like the McPherson strut used on the front of these cars. Adjusting one element will have an impact on other measurements even if they're not touched. It can take a few goes around each adjustment to get everything sorted just right. Camber is not fixed on any car, it varies as the wheel pivots on the kingpin axis, so adjusting toe is going to change the camber since it'll result in the wheel pivoting on the kingpin axis. As an aside, while camber cannot be individually adjusted on each side on these cars, it can be centered. This involves loosening the subframe bolts and sliding the subframe left or right until the camber is equal on both sides. I've found that not many alignment shops will be interested in doing this job.

Unlikely. Even if the wiring pinouts matched up exactly (and there's no guarantee of that), the Superb is much longer and the wiring from an Octavia is unlikely to reach far enough down the length of a Superb for it to work. The wiring runs from the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dash all the way to the rear of the boot.

Have all 4 wheels been balanced? I'd also take a closer look at the drive shafts.

We're going through a rather warm spell here right now and when I got home from work this evening I noticed my oil temperature up at 100 *C (the last few km of my commute is suburban driving at around 50-60 km/h). I also noticed that the fans weren't running, which I might have expected with the oil up at that sort of temperature. I plugged in VCDS and checked some sensor values: Coolant temperature was at 96 *C Coolant temperature actual at the radiator outlet was at 88 *C Coolant temperature specified at the radiator outlet was at 80 *C Cooling Fan 1 duty cycle was at 10 % Oil temperature at this point was down to 96 *C I ran output tests on the fans: it cycled to 86 % duty cycle for a few seconds and I could hear them kick on, then off again when it dropped back to 10 %. All fuses and relays are fine. Given the difference between the setpoint and actual temperatures on the radiator outlet I would have expected the fans to be running. Am I overthinking this or should I be worried? Car is a 2012 Combi with CFGB engine and DSG. DSG thermostat just replaced.

If you run Skoda OEM wheels on it there should be no issue. I wrote up a summary of wheel information here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445067-superb-2-wheel-and-tyre-information/

Weight range 6 is too soft for the combi, end of story. Pretty much everyone here who has had issues with sagging and broken springs is on weight range 6. Weight range 10 is a good compromise for OP if they're worried about comfort. And no, 10 is not two up, it's 5 up from WR 5. Spring diameter is not the only thing that determines spring stiffness and load bearing capacity.

The thread I linked above includes the ride height spec, and how to check it. Skoda fitted very weak rear springs and shocks from the factory on most cars, and they pretty much always sag at the rear. I'd suggest going to at least weight range 10 if you're replacing everything anyway.

Ok, that's White, Orange, Orange, Orange, Brown which indicates weight range 5. No wonder it broke. I'd suggest going to weight range 8 or 9 at least.

Is it a hatch or combi? Do you know what weight range is fitted (look on the build label for a code starting with 0Y)? Have you had problems with the rear sagging? (Most owners do) Is it original or facelift? Once we know this information we can drill down to some specific recommendations quite quickly.

Almost certainly worth doing dampers as well. Have a read here too: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479907-rear-suspension-information/

I put together a bunch of data on the various stock setups on the rear in this thread, it might help you a bit. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479907-rear-suspension-information/

Spec is 120 Nm, dry threads. Greasing them will result in overtightened bolts. If they're difficult to tighten clean the bolts and the holes in the hub.

There's a solenoid inside the mechanism that locks it once it's shut.

The bi-xenon setup uses a single xenon bulb with a mechanism that repositions the bulb relative to the projector lense to switch between low and high beam. As noted there's a separate halogen high beam bulb too. The xenon bulb is part of the AFS and if there's any problem in that system it will automatically aim the headlights as low as possible. This is one of the main reasons for having the fixed halogen units - it's a usable backup if the xenon system fails. The ballast is the power source for the xenon bulb. These bulbs work by passing a very large voltage through a gas capsule to create an arc. The ballast's job is to take the 12 V from the car's electrical system and step it up to the ~20000 V needed to drive the xenon bulb.

I've had similar thoughts myself but I've never really looked into a remap. The best thing I think would be to find someone who can do a custom map to your requirements.

The mechanism can get stuck. Try pressing gently on the flap as you hit the unlock button. It will probably take a few attempts before it unlocks. Once you get it unlocked and open, squirt some WD40 into the mechanism and work it a bit.

You can purchase them directly from Skoda as a downloadable pdf at https://skoda.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do You purchase a time-based subscription and you can access as much as you want during that time. It's a good idea to have your VIN handy as this saves a lot of time finding stuff.

Have a look here for some good info in this topic: I've listed out all the weight ranges that are available and the corresponding part numbers for springs and dampers. White green brown is weight range 6 and is too soft for most combi owners. I replaced springs and dampers on the back of mine a few years ago, and even on new parts it was sagging slightly. I ended up fitting helper springs to correct it. If you tow or regularly drive with a lot in the boot, I'd suggest weight range 14.

No idea at this point, probably 24 mm as this would match the ARB. Can't say I've noticed anything amiss down there since so I guess they're doing fine.

Most of the time the issue is hazing or clouding of the outside cover. You can polish this up by wet sanding and restore the lighting performance a lot. The HID bulbs themselves also degrade substantially over time, so if they're the originals on your car they're almost certainly knackered and you'll see a big improvement by replacing them.

Just stop. The Scala is a different model, its type approval may be different. This thread is about the Superb 2, and whatever about catalogues and what may or may not be in them, I have linked to the type approved sizes taken directly from Skoda's service literature, and these are what is permitted by the manufacturer on this model, end of story. There is no discussion to be had.

Only for some models. The higher powered variants are only type approved for V or even W rated tyres. You can't use a H rated tyre in these cases.

It's a 4 character code that almost certainly starts with L. If you like, post a pic of the build label from the handbook and we should be able to tell you.