Prof. Outdoors

Sorry if this is hijacking the thread. May I be rude and ask what mileage your car had done when you changed the shocks. I have owned my Octavia TDi since 60,000 but now has 303,000 miles and am looking at either a VRS 245 or the VRS Challenge with DCC. I am aware of the cost of DCC dampers but wondered how often they may need changing. (For future reference another post mentions a company Nagengast in Poland who refurbish DCC dampers.)

Thanks for the reply. Garage said that sensors are not cheap. My rear discs were an advisory on the MOT in Feb so it would make sense to change discs and pads at the same time. The actual job is not technically difficult but does require spline tools, piston caliper rewind tool. Forums warn of huge difficulty undoing the hub nut and the two caliper bracket nuts requiring very long extender bars/scaffolding poles etc. Access is not easy if on axle stands. My local garage is good and I will get them to give me a rough idea of cost for the whole job. As car is nearly 19 years old and approaching 300,000 miles I might wait and see what else needs doing to get it through the MOT in February. I could put the money towards a 245VRS! Thanks for replying.

Hi My 2005 L&K 2.0 Tdi is needing some work on it. Have three warning lights on it. Tyre pressure, ABS and ESP lights. ABS light comes on when starting up and within 50 metres of driving the other 2 lights come on. Coding the car brings up rear left mechanical ABS fault. Does anyone have a recommendation for a pattern ABS sensor that works on the Skoda as I believe not all non genuine ones play ball? The cost of the original sensor is quite prohibitive. I am conscious that rust build up on the magnetic ring sensor may have knocked out the sensor and could do the same to any new sensor. In view of that prospect I am aware the hub ring and sensor may need replacement. Irritating as taking the brake caliper mounting plate requires massive torque to undo those 2 torx 18 bolts. Not sure I have enough access for leverage required! Pity the discs and hubs can't come off without taking off the brake calper carrier. I have owned the car since 2009 and mileage is coming up to 298,000. Any recommendations for pattern ABS sensor welcomed.

All sorted. Shorting wire caused battery to run down so no start. Charged battery, traced short to air con sensor. Disconnected air con sensor and no4 fuse now operating correctly. Will check oil sensor at next service. Thanks for all the advice.

Update. Checked fuse box in engine bay. All OK. Starts but cuts immediately on both keys. Still no lights, indicators but both fans running. Diagnostic reading would be useful. I may call out my breakdown in midweek when not working. They could cast a light or maybe tow me to my local garage or auto electrician. Ah well, I cycle to work anyway.

thanks for prompt response. Fuse diagram attached. No 4 fuse, circled yellow, is Heating, Air conditioning, Electrically adjustable seats No 27, circled blue, is fuel pump relay. I was paranoid about the no27 fuse being in the wrong place but I think it is in the right place. The "socket" next to it has no connections. The fuse is OK by the way. Just been to car. Started but cut out immediately. Weirdly both radiator fans came on when I switched on the ignition. I have no indicators, side or headlamps. It does make me think I have major wiring problem somewhere.

2005 Octavia Laurin Klement 2.0PD 283,000 miles. Problem - Car will not run. Car starts but then cuts out immediately. No warning lights working whatsover on on the dashboard. History - Last week - Engine Oil Sensor workshop light. No reversing sensors. Took to local garage and put on diagnostic and read Oil sensor open circuit. Thought could be sensor itself or wiring loom problem. Drove home. Reasoning being that oil level is fine, car running OK therefore chase problem when oil is due to be changed as would need to drain to change oil sensor. Today I thought I would check all fuses. The 5 amp no4 fuse keeps blowing. (circled in yellow.) I took fuses out one at a time and replaced hopefully back in the same position! (Is 15 amp blue in correct position?) It is Saturday, my garage is shut and I can't drive it anyway to get checked anyway. I am with SilverKnight home rescue but thought I would ask on here first. Any ideas from the collective knowledge?